LC53 Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 I would appreciated it if anyone could tell me how to remove the rear brake drums on a 1954 dodge coronet station wagon. I am new to the forum and new to dodge vehicles. Just purchased this vehicle and want to check out the shoes and cylinders before I venture out on the roads. Any help would be appreciated.Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted sweet Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 you need a brake drum puller Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave38fastback Posted August 16, 2007 Share Posted August 16, 2007 Hi there. There is also an alternative method, a little random but others have done it. Remove the split pin, loosen the axle nut 1/4 turn, replace split pin and if for example doing drivers side take a short drive anticlockwise around the block/parking lot. This is supposed to break them free so that you can return home and pull them by hand. Never done it myself, but if I do I will give it a try. However as I have a 3.23 Ford diff in the rear this method may never be required by me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 17, 2007 Share Posted August 17, 2007 You need a really good puller. When originally installed, the drum goes on a tapered shaft and they wedge together. They grow together even tighter over the years.Rental places have big pullers you can rent. When you take the big nut off, turn it over and put it back on again flush with the end of the shaft.This does 2 things. One, it saves the end of the threads from getting damaged which can make it impossible to put the nut back on. Two, the hub can let go with a bang and go flying across the shop destroying everything in its path. having the nut on prevents this from happening. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LC53 Posted August 19, 2007 Author Share Posted August 19, 2007 Thank you for your help. I,ll get a puller and try to get the drums off. I imaqine the axle shaft and the drum is splined or else the axle would come with the drum. If i'am thinking wrong, please straighten me out before I do something foolish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Braverman Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 There is a keyway in the axle. This is the tool you need. Any other type of puller is going to give you problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted August 19, 2007 Share Posted August 19, 2007 The axle shaft is not splined. The shaft is tapered. When the nut is tightened down the hub and shaft wedge together. This is all that holds them. Well there is a little square key but if the hub is not tight it won't hold for long.The factory says you should tighten this nut to 142 foot pounds, minimum, if you don't want your wheels to fall off. So that hub is on there good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PJNicks Posted July 14, 2011 Share Posted July 14, 2011 Steve,thanks for the picture of the puller, I am about to attempt to remove my rear drums this weekend. Do you know if this is C-845 puller or just a similar puller. I have a 1956 Chrysler Windsor. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DodgeKCL Posted July 15, 2011 Share Posted July 15, 2011 We should have a 'sticky' at the top of the site threads to address this problem permanently. Maybe labelled 'Removing Chrysler Made Vehicle Rear Brake Drums'. This is the one curse of all Chrysler vehicles out of those years. The rear axles are,I believe, called semi floating and the brake drum is just rammed on to the sloped axle stub. It's kept from spinning around the axle by a Woodruff key slotted into the axle.There the whole lot pressure weld themselves to the axle and it becomes virtually impossible to remove the drum without a 3 armed puller. I went through all this myself when I got into CPDDs out of the 30s. As we all know the puller makes it possible but we still had to be reassured we were doing the right thing as we were also told that the drum and puller would fly off and injure us if we didn't stand to one side when it let go. Pretty hairy stuff. I've even tried smearing a small amount of grease on the mating faces of the drum and axle. It at least makes removal a quick and sure thing but they still weld themselves together pretty good in a couple of years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted July 16, 2011 Share Posted July 16, 2011 Many cars had that type of axle especially expensive cars like Cadillac and Jaguar. It is a nuisance especially on old cars where they have grown together over the years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PJNicks Posted August 12, 2011 Share Posted August 12, 2011 Hey Guys, Check out Les Fairbank's Hub PullerI tried contacting this guy to no avail but I made own very similar and not expensive. The hardest part is finding left handed threaded rod 1/2-20 but I found a tap and made a conversion. It pulled my passenger side off with no problems in about 10 minutes. I will take some pictures. If anyone wants to borrow it just let me know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric 6969 Posted February 24, 2019 Share Posted February 24, 2019 Does anyone know how to remove the rear drums from the hub on a 1961 Plymouth Belvedere? I got the drivers side rear off and I need to replace the drum. I am trying for days to remove the passengers side rear and even with the puller I bought the drum and hub wont budge. Please advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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