John McEwan
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Posts posted by John McEwan
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7 hours ago, MikeC5 said:
That's great John! I wish those high speed gears weren't so expensive....
Yes. There’s always something wrong with a good idea.
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Took my Dodge with the modified layshaft and high speed first and second gear for a good drive this afternoon. The gearbox ratios are terrific now. No big jump from 2nd the 3rd and 1st gear being higher ratio makes crossing intersections from a stop much safer not having to change to 2nd half way across. Dropping from 3rd to 2nd is much easier. I can’t say there is more gear noise in reverse like I thought there would be after using the very worn 1st gear as reverse after flipping the layshaft. Sounds exactly the same as before. There is still some slight whirring noise in 1st and 2nd but nowhere near as bad as it was before. I think after some use these gears will wear in with one another and it will quite right down. In just this drive there was a reduction in noise from when I first took off. Overall very happy with the results.
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I have new bearings with the outside seal in place only.
It seems this machined washer would stop the clutch from coming back too far. Previously it seemed my clutch pack used to slide backward and forward although it did work perfectly. Whoever did the modern seal thing did not utilise the washer. Maybe I’m wrong. Hope someone has a workshop manual and can look up if I’m wrong or right.
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It appears the donor gearbox I have been using in my 1923 has had a late model seal in place of the original felt/cork seal. There was no washer in this setup. This leaked and I want to go back to original.
Can anyone tell me if I have the sequence correct in the images. I think it is housing, felt seal, machined washer. This washer fits snuggly over the square drive shaft and sits against the lip where the felt seal does it’s job. It seems the washer takes up the free space where the felt seal sits in the3 bolt housing and when the housing is tightened up it makes the felt seal expand onto the shaft. Looking at the cut away image , I’m sure I can see this washer like the washer at the other end the gearbox shaft. I’ve never written washer so many times.
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This is my ‘23 in 1974. Bought by my grandfather around 1950, given to my Dad in 1955 and driven till 1960 and parked behind our family bake house. This photo is the day I dragged it out as a 16 year old. I used to ride in it as a baby sitting between my twin big brothers. I worked extremely fast on this one. 18 years is quick, right?
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I finally have the reversed countershaft back from machining. Turned out good and can’t see there being a problem. To rehash, I flipped the countershaft over to bring the very good condition reverse gear teeth into the first gear position and the pitted 1st gear will now be reverse.
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14 hours ago, franklinman said:
To what purpose? Higher RPMs? (not that good an idea, starter-generator is a limiting factor), Smoother can be obtained by a comprehensive balancing. Curious where you’re going.
I already have much smoother via my rubber engine mounts. Looking at quicker acceleration and better gear changes. I am in the middle of gear ratio changes and thought while the gearbox is out I might take off a couple of kg’s.
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Anyone have any experience with flywheel lightening on ‘23 or earlier DB. Interested in results or opinions.
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Anyone lightened the flywheel on ‘23 or earlier flywheel?
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19 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
They have to write something on the card for cause of death. Oh yea, that's right from now on it's covid. I can remember blowing out brake drums with an air hose before I took them off to get all the dust out.
I could fall down my back steps roaring drunk and break my neck. If I happen to have the China plague my cause of death would be listed as COVID.
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1 hour ago, Mattml430 said:
Have you tried polishing that out with some autosol metal polish. It doesn’t really look like copper but it might just be the picture.
The more it’s polished the worse it gets and spreads.
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On 10/24/2020 at 6:27 AM, Mattml430 said:
Gidday John, I’m not sure about chrome but I know you can go over nickel again. If it’s rusty you have to start from scratch. Can you see a copper coat under it or has it been plated without a copper coat.
After a bit of repair work I’m going to attempt to plate my radiator surround.
post a pic for us and we’ll have a look.It looks like it has been copper coated. I’m pretty sure that’s what I see through the chrome. The sides and front are perfect, it’s only the top. It looks tarnished.
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My ‘23 has wing nuts to adjust the brakes. I reckon yours is ‘24 +
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Can a ‘23 radiator shroud that I had chromed about 30 years ago be rechromed over the top? It is still in really good condition except for the top either side of the cap. It looks like the chrome was thin there and has been polished through. I can post an image tomorrow.
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Thank you.
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Looking for a thirteen tooth countershaft for a DB gearbox ‘23 model. Needle roller style and must have good teeth both ends.
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My originals were flat. The 23 is still the original early body style.
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I wonder if the engine pans would fit a ‘23 and if they were flipped over would they suit a RHD?
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I have a couple of countershafts at the local CNC place have the flip over mod done.
With a bit of luck all will be well. I will post some images when I get it back next week.
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I’m not really concerned with noise in reverse. Are you serious about your friend doing this mod?
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I had a brainwave. Could the low and reverse countershaft be flipped over to engage the seldom used and perfect condition reverse pinion in place of the worn out and pitted low speed pinion? You can see in the image it is not a problem on the r/h end. The extra shaft can be parted off and the area next to the now low pinion turned down to be able to press the 2nd gear close to the low speed pinion as per the complete countershaft at the top.
The problem is when the large countershaft drive gear gets pressed on to the l/h end there will be 15mm less shaft for the drive gear after a spacer is made to place the drive gear the correct distance from the reverse pinion. I have other worn out countershaft that could have 15mm parted off one end to make up a spacer to take up the shortfall and be an area for the needle roller to run. There would still be 2/3rds of the of the original shaft being used to hold the drive gear on.
I need opinions on whether the countershaft drive gear would still be viable with 15mm less shaft to grab. I could taper the short end and the spacer and TIG weld the spacer on using a plug to align them perfectly and the woodruff key can be still used.
I’m getting a headache.
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Thanks for that info. Did the other sliding gears get made slightly tighter as well because I am having trouble with those ones.
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I am looking to buy a 13T low and reverse countershaft pinion in very good condition. Must suit needle rollers. This is for my 1923 Dodge. I have purchased a high speed 1st and 2nd high speed set and don’t want to run my current worn and pitted pinion on the new gears.
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Does anyone in Australia have a decent 13t layshaft gear set for sale? Mine has fairly deep pitting and wear on the low gear end.
Restoration of Victory Six sports roadster.
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
I used acrylic for my wind wings. Clearer than glass, much lighter and best of all much, much cheaper.