John McEwan
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Posts posted by John McEwan
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Has anyone made a carrier to use a modern seal for the clutch shaft?
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I am in contact with Cled . I am getting the set off him but was also after the two pressed on gears on the idler gear set.
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Hi Mike
Would you have the contact details of the bloke making the square drive shafts for the clutch and is there anyone making the the two new gears for the end of the idler gear set?
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Does anyone have experience with aftermarket higher speed 1st and 2nd transmission gears in an early 20’s Dodge? Can these gears be changed without removing the transmission from the car? Anyone know where to get and cost of these sets?
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I replaced all the woodwork with steel when I did the restoration on my ‘23. The wood was doing my head in. Am I a bad person?
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I have had the DB out on several trips since fitting the new rubber engine mounts and all I can say the improvement is amazing. Even my wife noticed a big improvement in smoothness and is willing to come on more drives. That’s saying something.
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The front mount is still standard. I figured with the front being a pivot the slight side to side rocking with the rear rubber mount will be taken up ok. Seems that is the case.
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The I took the DB on a short test drive this afternoon and I have to say within 10 seconds of driving off I could feel a vast improvement. Where it used to vibrate a lot in second in the higher revs there is nothing to speak of now. In 3rd gear cruising along it is the same story. When decelerating from speed before there was a big vibration now it is smooth as silk. The engine even seems to have more acceleration now. Next job is to make a new foot brake mount as the old mounting point had to make way for the new rubber engine mount. Testing with just the hand brake is scary but I couldn’t wait any longer. I also fitted a flexible exhaust joiner under the front floor board so the header could move and not affect the rest of the solid mounted system.
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I am re fitting the clutch and transmission in my ‘23 this coming weekend. I have read a previous post stating the rear engine support ring should be installed in this order: engine, bell housing, support ring on last otherwise the clutch pack can slide back and forward and make a noise. I previously (30 years ago) fitted the support ring between the engine and bell housing. Looking at an original support ring it looks, by the marks on it, in the middle is correct.
Does anyone have the proper position info?
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I have modded a spare engine mount bracket on my ‘23 for rubber engine mounts. The chassis and rear mounting system is way different than the later model. I will be fitting it over the weekend and I think it will make a big difference.
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Off to a swap meet for an over night camp out. Looks like the trailer will be getting built soon.
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I ended up repainting the front guards so that’s it for now.
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No hardener in acylic. Face mask is sufficient imo but if used everyday a respirator would be sensible.
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Good old fashioned acrylic.
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Done.
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20 hours ago, franklinman said:
OK, I'm curious about the new cylinder heads that are available too. I've done a search on the fellow's name, austrailia, DB high compression heads, etc. including numerous combinations of the words/terms. Can anyone supply website, address, etc. regarding these?
Apparently there is lots of information online.🙄
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6 hours ago, Minibago said:
A new, four cylinder head in aluminium with the spark plug over the piston is available to suit the Dodge Brothers car in Australia from Ralph Provan.
Any more details or phone number?
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Any opinions out there on increasing the compression on an early Dodge 4?
Any advantages or maybe added strain on the bottom end?
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I was just going to paint the top of one front door then.....
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When a couple of touch ups gets out of hand.
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Could someone please post an image of a 1923 rear hub puller or have the dimensions?
For the first time my rear wheel is jammed on and I cannot release it.
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Bought a new nut and worked it onto the manifold thread with valve grinding paste as suggested. New header pipe, packing and copper crush rings and it’s nice and quite. Sure makes a good difference.
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14 hours ago, Mattml430 said:
You may of already come across these pics. They are a little older but let’s you see with the body off.
That’s a 1923. Same as mine.
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14 hours ago, Mikefit said:
John I had a similar problem I got a peanut and packing from Myers and used valve grinding compound and worked the nut by hand until it would screw on up the the shoulder on the manifold wrapped the packing around the pipe run the nut up to the shoulder and that keeps the pipedream free I think it cost less than $25.00 Mike
Is the packing used on the manifold thread like a thread tape and is it like a ribbon or rope?
1923 Gearbox bearings
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
I received my high speed 1st and 2nd gearbox kit and want to replace the front and rear bearings. Anyone know the bearing size and preferred brand?