jan arnett (2)
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Posts posted by jan arnett (2)
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Here is a 1924 screenside with the roof on it. Mine is a 1923 screenside and the roof is under restoration. I believe this is what you are speaking of.
It is my understanding that the 1924 roadster door is the same as the screenside. I see you spoke to bob who was looking for a door. He should be able to tell you if they are interchangeable.
Have a nice evening.
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I believe this is what you have. It is a screenside pickup without the top and screens. If this what it looks like. This is a 1923 but the 23 and 24 look alike.
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John what do mean by hack truck. Is it a car that has been made into a truck, a depot hack, screenside pickup or delivery truck. This will influence what door you need. The link is universal.
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Joe:
You will need to supply more information. What oak do you speak of. I am not aware of oak being used at all by dodge. If you are talking about bows they were covered in cloth and are made of ash. Do a search as there have been pictures posted before of the underside of a touring.
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You need to try the Durant website for information. Here is the website for the club. The Durant Motors Automobile Club - DeVaux & Rugby too! Lots of luck.
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great link
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absolutely. They keep the breeze from going up your back.
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Here are pictures of my 1923 seat backs. The seat is 1 1/2 inches which is the stuffing and leather. The wood is 1/2 thick. The pleats are 4 inchs wide.
Here are the pictures.
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I need to get the seat parts from another location but will post them for you.
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Wayne:
The seat backs were stuffed with curled horse hair so anything you measure today is going to be incorrect. Do you belong to the Dodge Club? Several years ago an article was written on redoing the seats and it is excellent. I can take a picture of my seats for a 1923 if it will help.
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I blew up the pictures and posted them on my garage wall. Thought you might like them.
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I use dry lubricates on my bikes but would not use it on my cars. They serve very different functions. The bike chain is constant rotating and tends to sling the dust away. You also have closer tolerance then a brake clevis. I also doubt if my bike chain will wear out. In a car you have a different situation where mud, sand and dust will be picked up but unless you do a lot of cleaning under the car every time you will not be cleaning it. As I said earlier I check my connections once a year after I put it in the garage. I want something that will block the water and suspend the dirt in a joint. The joint has a large tolerance not a tight tolerance. Where it goes thru the backing place it has a closer tolerance. If you are concerned about geting dirt in a joint you can put a boot on it. I used to put gaiters on my model t racing cars and then I put grease and graphite between the leafs. I am currently making up a boot for my 1923 Dodge drive shaft but this is to keep grit out of the drive shaft.
You have a very rare car an I applaude your effort and concern to keep it original but their are a million Model T's on the road and I think most drivers just use a little bearing grease.
Have fun with it and I would like to see more pictures
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I have only seen engine fires started one of two ways. A back fire through the carburetor or fuel leaking onto a manifold or exhaust pipe. Normally a backfire is because of timing problems or crossed wires. It can also be the result of carbon in the distributor cap. If I were trying to find the problem here are the steps I would take.
1. Change the oil. You will be able to smell raw gas in the oil if it is loaded up.
2. Disconnect the fuel line from the vacuum tank to the gas tank. This will allow the car to run on a full vac tank to check it out.
3. Check the plugs to see if they are running rich. If they are carboned up then clean them as you probably are floating the carb needle valve.
4. Fill the vac tank and start the engine and see if you have the same problem.
5. If you do then your problem is probably not linked to the fuel pump.
You did not say if the fuel line from fuel pump is going into the vac. tank or directly into the carb.:eek:
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How about pictures of your car
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I put a touch of lubriplate on all wear points every winter. It gives you an excuse to examine each point to make sure you have no potential failures waiting for you. I use chassis grease in the grease cups and alemite fittings.
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As Terry says you have an accessory oil line that was installed to lubricate the front main. You will have to take it off and clean it and then put it back together. Make sure the tubing is not split at the flare. The post is the magneto post and should also be cleaned. As was said earlier there is no oil pump on a model t. Model T leak oil to mark their spot to make sure cheys. do not try and park in their spots. You will also find that they leak from each bolt in the pan. If this happens remove the bolt and wrap dental floss around the threads and put it back together.
You check the oil level by opening the top petcock on the pan and seeing if any oil leaks out. If it does it is too high. Open the bottom petcock and see if oil comes out. The oil should be between the two petcocks. Put in straight 30 wgt. non detergent oil. The next thing you will probably want to do is adjust the bands but you will probably need help for that or the owners manual. If you are going to drive it far you should also lubricate it.
Enjoy the car they are a lot of fun.
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I also run modern points and I can't tell you what it fits. I just went through the parts drawer and matched up what I needed. I did the same thing on my Moon so if you have a garage that has been in the business stop by and see what they have in their parts drawer. If you find one that fits they probably will give them to you.
Have a nice day.
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Bob: Glad you found the door but it is interesting that you had to buy the who truck. I need screens and the eyebolts that hold the tailgate on if you have spares.
Have a nice day.
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It also fits the earlier cars but they have an alimite fitting and not a grease cup. This is a 1923 engine.
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Try this link for additional information.
Morton & Brett, Elvin D. Morton, Jack Brett, Speedster, Model T, Morton and Brett - Coachbult.com
This is only one of many.
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The hood former is from a 15/16 T and the tires look new. The radiator still has its shine in the first picture. I am going to bet that the photo was taken later then 1916 as they usually did not make a speedster out of a new car. That is a great picture and I hope when I get his age I am allowed to have a speedster like his. Wonder what happened to the car?
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One of the best purchase I ever made was a cheap small video camera. I put the camera on a tripod and any time I touch the car I video what I did. I can always go back and review the video if I am having trouble figure out what I did or if something popped off. It has saved my bacon many times when I had some thing come loose that later I could not figure how to put back. I also take hundreds of digital photos and then transfer them to disc with tags like transmission, engine, wire, ect.
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One other thing. Don't start the engine until you drop the pan and clean all the crud out. Then fill the pan with fresh oil and start the car. Run for five minutes and then drain the oil and put fresh in. Check the oil pump while you have the pan down. Check the wiring and make sure you do not have bare wires as they could start a fire.
1924 Dodge Touring Interior
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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Joe:
Did you check out the next link in the forum. There is a gentlemen looking for information on a 1924 sedan. He has a complete floor in his sedan.