jan arnett (2)
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Posts posted by jan arnett (2)
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One caution I would put on doing it this way is to only back off the nuts enough to allow the head to come loose but not be bent on the studs.
Have a nice day.
Jan
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Thanks: I used to race ford flat heads and if you had an alumnium head it would never come off. I had a set of arden heads that someone busted trying to knock off. I bought them for the valve train but got them off using thin wall tubing. Just file some teeth in the tubing and it will cut real easy. Once you have a couple made up it only takes a few minutes to cut the crud.
Have a nice day.
Jan
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take some thin wall tubing which will fit over the outside of the studs. File some teeth on the end and chuck in a drill. You can cut the crud with them and remove the head.
Thanks
Jan
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Jim:
Dodge never made a convertible in 1923 so what body style is it. Touring, roadster or screenside.
Thanks
Jan
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I always put on welding cables and make sure you have no paint or rust where you clamp the cables. I saw a beautiful restoration where they powder coated the frame and then clamped the cables onto the powder coat. It didn't work worth a d***.
Jan
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That wheel is for a Model T with one Keyway.
Jan
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James: These cars do not have a VIN number only a serial number..
Jan
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The ritets you refer to are to hold the brake drums on. They are called boss bolts and dodge had them up to 1923.
Have a nice day.
Jan
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Here is a better forum for your questions.
I am a regular contributor to this forum (hot rodders) because they have excellent contributors in new techniquess for body work and paint work. What you are envisioning is a project destined for failure with your lack of experience. You will be frustrated, the project will fail and we are left with another cut up car. Trust me I have been there. Here is a list of my Hot rod projects over the years. 1933 Ply (chopped, channeled, sectioned) with a 331 Hemi, 1934 Ford Truck (Blown Flat Head), 34 Ford Vicky (352 Ford Engine), 18 T roadster (1940 Buick straight Eight). Restored cars 1916 T, 1963 Merc Comet Conv., 1966 Galaxie, 1923 Star, 1923 Moon, 1923 Dodge, 1924 Model T, 1929 Model A, 1930 Model A, 1954 Jag, 1954 MG. As I said I have been there and I learned how to do it working on cars but I started with five cars from a junk yard with nothing but bodies.
Have a nice day.
Jan
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I know there are people on this forum that have 24 touring that can answer the question. If not then you will have to do what I am doing on my 1923 Moon. Set the top irons and bows in place and then make a top out of light weight material to build a pattern. Take the pattern and touring to your local trimmer and have them make one for you. Are you a member of the Dodge club as I believe they have a list of suppliers. Lots of luck and if I can help please contact me at Modelt1916 (kill spam) @yahoo.com.
Jan
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What is a dizzy? I look forward to learning new information everyday.
Have a nice weekend
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looks like a 1930 Buick but you did not give the depth.
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I believe that Hampton Coach may have a kit for the top. I don't know of any kits for side curtains. They should be easy to make. You will have to make side curtain rods and then use heavy butch paper to make up templates. Use flexible plastic in place of Isaglass.
Jan
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I agree with why do it. You will create more problems then you will solve without gaining anything except a head ach.
Jan
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Do you want at kit or material.
Jan
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It is obvious that you have not done a projct like this before. The only way to tell if something will fit is to measure but it is not the installation of the proposed engine that bothers me. It is all the rest of the items that will be required that bother me. I would not want to be on the road with you unless you change the brakes, the radiator will have to go, probably the rear end, definitely the radiator, all the electrical, the trans will not fit. Personally I think you are way over your head with this one. With your experience it is going to be tough and expensive. What skills do you possess (welding, electrical, body work, frame experience). I may sound harsh but I started building rods in the sixties and restoring cars in the seventies and I learned by taking small bites not taking on what you envision. If you want a rod buy someone elses project and learn on it or go to trade school and learn the needed skills. Another way is to join a R&C club and have a mentor show you how to do it.
Jan
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I agree that it is in the 5K range. If it were an open car it worth be worth more. It is a nice car for a driver.
Jan
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I agree that it is in the 5K range. If it were an open car it worth be worth more. It is a nice car for a driver.
Jan
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Is it six cyc or eight cyc. 1930 and down was a six cyc, 31 and up is eight.
Jan
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Here is my 23 and it is original
Jan
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My 23 is unpainted.
Jan
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When converting over a car that did not come with brake lights orignially it is important that there are three ways to achieve a rear brake light.
1. Put a resistor in the line which will dim the light and use the original socket. Roger Harley did a write up on this for the Dodge club.
2. Use the orignal tail light but change the bulb socket to a dual filament unit and run a second wire.
3. Use a later model tailight which was made for brake lights.
I use option 2 and normaly put a second tailight on the right side which allows me to install turn signals. If you are rewring I strongly recommend this option. You can also add accessory tailights and remove them when you want.
Just a bunch of thoughts from a senile old man.
Have a nice day.
Jan
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I have some motorcycle lights which I like to use in parades. Two of them have initeria switch's in them that cause them to flash when you slow down.
Have a nice day.
Jan
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Go to the Durant website and look at the discusion going on there. There are some pictures there of a Model A brake switch and a Durant switch which should allow you some options.
RARE 1941 Ford Coupe- Beautifully Restores- ALL STEEL!
in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell
Posted
What part on the car has been restored?