72caddy
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Posts posted by 72caddy
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After some reading through old newletters I learn that I have the wrong style headlights on my Touring. I have the 'barrel' type when I need the 'acorn' type. Actually I have 3 sets of barrel type buckets. One 'acorn' that uses a tube for mounting and another 'acorn' that is riveted to the fender.
Willing to trade/buy the additional 'acorn' bucket with tube mount if someone has a spare. Just need the bucket I have tons of rings and reflectors.
I'm in no hurry the barrels look good, but at some point I will want to get the correct buckets mounted.
Thanks in advance.
Trent
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Rim to the fellow.
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Some of my wheels have hex head 3" bolts that hold the split rim to the hub on my 19 DB. I did a search on the site and a search on various parts sites without any luck in finding the proper round head 7/16" X 3" carriage bolt with shoulder. Anyone pass along a name of a vendor for these?
Thanks in advance,
Trent
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Just measured a spare I have. 8 1/4" dia.
Trent
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I pulled my vacuum tank and found the the flapper valve and screw were laying at the bottom of the outer tank. That may be my problem!
Afer cleaning and re-assembly. The car is now hitting on all four cylinders - not rich fouling the plugs - and has a nice steady idle.
The next issue is the miss on acceleration which I think is the condensor or coil, but I take my gains today and hold off on that for another weekend.
Many thanks for the advice and encouragement.
Richard
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Very nice car and I also appreciate the help and guidence you have provided me and others on this forum for resurrecting our cars.
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Well after getting the timing and spark issues on my car straight, turns out I have the issue as described as 'DBBilly'. When running the car idles OK, but stumbles on acceleration and eventually just floods out. Looking at the carb when this happens, dry when running, but gas leaking out when not running. Plugs are rich fouled as well.
So in reading up on vacuum tank issues I found an old article that talks about an easy test to see if your float has a hole (or not) causing the fuel to enter the vacuum line - without having to tear apart the vacuum tank.
Take a bottle and put a rubber stoppoer in the end that has two tubes. Hook one tube to the vacuum line and the other to the intake. If gas shows up, your float has a hole. If gas does not show up it is the carburator.
I can scann this and send it along if you like. Just drop me a PM.
Richard
I have not tried this yet, but will
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Agree that the black smoke is the car running rich...but just so I follow...
If the tank is over-filling and gas is getting into the vacuum line, this causes a flooding issue and the car stumbles. The car runs fine when the gas line is disconnected because the vaccum tank does not have the opportunity to overfill or the level drops when the line is 'broken' for the various tests?
Just trying to educate myself as I may have a similiar issue with my tank. I ignored the black smoke part of the email as I was already thinking of fuel starvation.
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Was not aware of the adjusting the timing from under the cap - so I will do this next. My cap did not have any numbers (repro?) The points are set correctly at .020
Thanks for all the help. Gotta love forums!
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Sounds like you solved the problem to me. If I am reading this right everytime you have the sytem hooked up from end to end the car runs poorly - when you disconnect at the vacuum tank, filter, and top of the gas tank it runs fine.
the scale (or what-ever it is)on the tube in the tank seems to be the culprit. If it is that badly corroded or sucked-up some corresion from the tank and now that it is lodged in the pipe,
Take the line from the top of the tank and then atttach a line into a clean gas can with copper or rubber - I bet it runs fine.
Good Luck. I am still fighting mine.
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Had a friend at work that liked to paint projects in his small garage. After the projects he would try to get the paint drips and such off of the floor by using paint thinner or terpentine.
One cold day he left the garge down down and started pouring the terpentine on the floor - soon the gas ppilot light on the water heater ignited and all those parts he had carefully put in plastic bags were now shrink-wrapped.
He escaped with only his pride hurt but we should always remember that vapors are very dangerous.
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Excellent! Both images confirm my conclusion. Don't know why I didn't think of that (google).
In trying to straighten out the throttle linkage I did goggle some images and got some help but nothing really definitive. i am mainly looking for a good picture of how the throttle return spring is mounted/fastened. Anyone have a good picture of that?
Now I need to order some 1977 Colt condensors and see if that gets rid of the spark issue. Are there any other alternatives? - I only have the discount parts stores in town and everyone has to order these.
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Hello, in my quest to get this car back on the road I have had many challenges. The car split the muffler open like a clam after I fired it up to test the fuel system (bad flares on the lines). So I got it idling even though it was hitting on two cylinders. In checking the distributor wiring it seems the original owner had a couple of wires crossed - which I think caused the back-fire and the demise of the muffler. Could someone confirm for me as I have no had much luck in seeing any offical diagram in the 'Book of Info', 'Mechanics Guide' or any newletter. I am only going by some of the B&W images from the above documents.
These positions are approx so just bear with me. The position of the wire on the distributor will be followed by the cylinder number the wire leads to:
5 o'click wire - #1 cylinder
1 o'clock wire - #2 cylinder
11 o'clock wire - #4 cylinder
9 o'clock wire - #3 cylinder
Originally my car had the #3 and #4 distributor wires switched.
While I am posting, I also think I have a weak spark. After replacing the wires the spark only jumps about 1/4" from the wire tip to the plug when running and the car 'stumbles' or 'misses' when I give it some gas. Points are set at .20 and it does have a modern condensor by the distributor (not inside). So I will replace the condensor next then move back to the coil (original) if the condensor is not the culprit.
Any confirmation, advice, or further things to check is much appreciated as this is my first 'really old' car.
BTW, Champion W18 plugs are now called Champion 518. AC Delco makes a plug AC-Z or AC-78-S that will work as well. The Champions can be found at ACE Hardware. Distributor wires with COPPER cores (not carbon; as carbon cores are not recommended according to a old newletter I read) can be found at any auto parts store (ACCEL High Performance).
Thanks in advance
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The number on the frame look like 690996 - which would put in the 1922 range. It looks just like my 1919 frame.
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Just hauled home about 2 cars worth of mechanical and other hard to find parts for early dodges - so I will be selling a good deal of what I do not need for my project. Partial listing of what I know I will be selling:
2 Split Rims with 4.4 21" Firestone tires (shot)
Early Style Headlight buckets (tapered; rounded) one has a rivet mount the other 'shaft' style
Headlight reflectors - different mounts avalable
8 headlight rings (black and Zinc) various conditions
Windshield Frames (top and bottom) one with a curved bottom
Type 'L' Dash
1919 Dash Panel
Many Gauges - too many to list
Seat Springs
Complete Frame (with rear springs) - not sure I want to sell but it is sitting outside and I would rather it go to someone who could use it - one 'outrigger' missing.
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I need some smaller items:
top saddles
Wind shield outside 'butterfly' screws
Hood emblem
Rear tail light/license plate holder
Engine head
If you are willing to part, please send prices and availability to: ltpope@knology.dot.net (replace the '.dot.' with '.')
Richard
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If it will fit a 19 or 22 year frame I know where a couple are...I am traveling but can dig up the guys number somewhere...
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Well, that is just it - did this car have carpet along the back of the panel? I don't know. The floor is linoleum on top of wood - so technically there is no carpet. But it could have secured a fiber board painted black, more linoleum - i just don't know and I am hoping someone out there does know....
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This is a close-up picture of the back of the front seat in my 19 Dodge Touring. Along this back edge are these little tabs that stick out. To me, the tabs look like they should be bent over something to hold that item securely. Was there a fiber board back to the seats? or a leather wrap of some kind?
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Well, I have the bits and pieces from mine. SO maybe I 'll do a drawing and send it on...
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Mr.Wollam,
Could I also get a picutre/drawing/measurements of the front wood header bow? Who-ever made mine made it out of PINE! Obviously is is broken an barely hanging in there.
Thanks in advance!
Richard
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OK, so the second from the bottom left is the starter-generator rear support.
The other item may be part of a rear license plate bracket as it fits perfectly over the rear springs - would it be mounted that way?
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In a box of parts that just arrived with my new 19 Dodge I have these parts. Not sure what they are for. The top image is a bunch of brackets or connecting rod type things.
The second image I need help identifying the two lower left items?
Any ideas?
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I see two big differences (thanks for the photos). First, I do not have any top cables. Secondly my straps must really be off because the second and third bow are not sitting properly (upright).
Right now the car is running very rich...so much in fact that when it backfired - beside scareing the whole neighborhood - split the muffle along the seam! I pulled the plugs and the first two (front of car) where covered in black soot (rich) but the back two were both coverd in soot and oil - so I need to cehck compression as well.
It also stumbles badly when I give it gas - so I am off to figure out the proper carb setting and making sure the ignition is properly set.
Thanks for the help and advice. My email is ltpopeATknologydotnet. Just replace the AT and dot with the correct characters.
1926 DODGE COUPE 4CYL '' CAN NOT KEEP IT RUNNING FUEL PROBLEM HE
in General Discussion
Posted
What has changed from the time it was running fine until now (including seasons)?
Try he gravity ank idea by aussie610 and see if it is indeed the vacuum tank. If it still runs rough it may be the carb is gummed up from sitting or you wiring has a short (mouse?)