Jim NotreDame IN

funny you mention that... my e-brake pedal doesn't do anything, but i blamed it on the release lever being internally jammed (blind guess). i'll have to look into it a little further. thanks

you're right about the performance going up after the cat goes back on. i had an exhaust leak, bc my downpipe came loose from the cat, and after the local exhaust shop welded it back up for a whopping 10 bucks, the car was almost scary quiet (obviously) and the performance and mileage was considerably better. well, i guess mileage was only 2 mpg better, but the car seemed soo zippy compared to before that it was crazy. i don't know if i was babying it because it was so loud open header that day, but i'm pretty convinced that these engines do well with some back-pressure, and if i were replacing the entire exhaust system, i would put a cat back on it, especially with the 18 year newer technology going into them.

you cleaned the switch contacts, or the connector contacts? its just curious that two different units act the same way in my car... thanks, i'll try it out.

hello all. i've been having trouble with my electronic climate control all season. at first the proper operation was intermittent, and if i couldn't get it to work, i could press on the face of the unit, and would be able to control things properly again. what always would happen is, the temp up button would not work and the rear defroster wouldn't work. everything else seemed normal. anyway, at the same time i replaced both the ecc and the 'black box' behind the glovebox that actually moves the control rods and has the vacuum circuits in it. the problem still exists with the new (used) pieces, and the new ecc that i bought has several burnt out light bulbs anyway, so i'm going to try and take it apart and see if the ecc's that i have, have cold or broken solder joints or anything suspicious. has anything like this happened to anybody else? what would plague my heating system like this. is there something else that it could be, or do you think that i have just gotten two bad units in a row by chance? is god punishing me? thanks guys, you're always a big help. it seems like every day i think of something to ask on here, and by the time i get home, i'm just so into the driving that i've forgotten. what a good feeling.

the console light bulbs aren't too bad, you just have to remove the console cover. from my recollection, i believe that you have to carefully pop the plastic insert out of the chrome plate that surrounds it (also plastic). so be careful, after that the screws are exposed if you need to take them out. make sure you check under the ash tray and coin holder for possible hidden screws, its been a while since i did it. good luck. as far as the heater control, i have no idea, i've got a bad one, so i'll tear into it and find out for us.

i think i have a rattle in the rear, do the mounts go bad there commonly? i'll have to listen carefully because i could swear that its the back, but if these cars are plagued with the front struts going out, i wanna spend my money on the right end of the car, right?

what mileage do you get after the supercharger swap versus before?

on wikipedia if you look up the reatta, it states that the reatta's "c" code engine can be supercharged without any modification. obviously this is bull, somebody oughtta change what it says there, anybody registered to do that?

as long as you never wake up and realize you performed an oil change in your sleep, right?

i figured that i will just remove them and retorque them. maybe over 18 years the vinyl has shrunk or expanded and releasing the panels and retightening them will reposition them appropriately. also thought about applying a felt tape under the overlapping surfaces to quiet things down... i'll let you know how it works. thanks

is that the same as "JB Weld" in the states? anyway, there is a product made by POR 15 that is a patch and filler for exhaust manifolds, you could probably fashion a patch out of that stuff. POR 15 makes great stuff, i think its por15inc.com or something like that. good luck

i haven't looked and i've never done this, so i may be entirely wrong, but i think that the blower motor is accessible from under the dash, behind the glove box. most vehicles have the heater core accessible under the hood though.

do the motors that turn on the headlights draw power the whole time that the headlights are up?? perhaps the old motors draw a bit more current as they age and this is what hurts the wiring? i don't know much about the circuit myself. just a guess.

what do you mean by "the shifter-graft"?? i'm not familiar with what you are doing here, but it sounds interesting. thanks

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body">T Speedway Automotive Phil Hertel is the owner and the has close to 200 wrecked Reattas. </div></div> he has 200 reattas?! buick couldn't even sell that many did they? joking, thats a lot to have in one yard though.

hello all, i've noticed quite a bit recently that the interior panels in my '90 will make quite a racket while driving over rough roads. i'm not quite sure which interior panels to suspect because i have my door panels, all four pillar covers and the rear deck panel removed temporarily while i sort out some wiring. my trunk does not currently have a latch mechanism (the motor broke so i unbolted it until i replace it), so i might be hearing the trunk moving over that seal, and i do not have a functioning latch on my trunk pass through either (different key lock cylinder, so its locked, but not latched), so i may also be hearing that seal. any similar complaints that people have tracked down?? any other advice? thanks

they might have been clamped on to the pcv valve plumbing by someone trying to save gas money... this would not have been smart because it would have caused a pressure problem within the engine block, that usually will blow out a rear main seal or a valve cover gasket.

i was at autozone the other day, and they have an assortment of lift struts that were all twenty dollars each. there was no cross reference or anything like that though, so i was going to just take in my old ones and match them up for length, assuming they are strong enough, that is.

sorry, i always think i've got a novel idea to ask, and usually i'm the annoying one that asks a question after it has already been resolved. thanks

what diameter exhaust pipes do reatta's have. i've got a '90 that has a leaky cat, so i think i'm just going to replace the whole system piece at a time.

i ordered a lock cylinder from a gm dealer about a year ago, and they wanted the v.i.n. to match up how to arrange the tumblers inside the lock and cut the key. it was for the trunk though, so who knows... glad you got in. i always have an ignition key hidden in my glovebox and an extra door key inside my wallet. that way i'm never locked out unless i lose my wallet, and then i couldn't pay a locksmith anyway.

so the 1157's are actually a little brighter at idle? thats good to know. or they are higher wattage rather, candle power too. brighter is a vague word. do you know the conversion to MCD? (i believe that this is micro-candela-power). thanks again

i've got a 90, so that would be perfect... is the switch on the dash just momentary, and the heater box behind the dash has the timer and relay that make the rest of it operate? thanks

the riviera of the same years would use the same lug pattern though as long as its got 5, right?

i'm installing an alarm with a friend of mine that does this professionally. we have an extra output from the alarm that we want to hook up to the rear window defroster. does anybody know the wire color for this or where it is? the alarm has a ten minute timer for this output built in, so could we just put in a relay that applies 12v to the rear window directly? thanks guys, you're always a big help.