Patrick91914
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Posts posted by Patrick91914
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<HR><!-- google_ad_section_start -->What's the best way to restore the clamshell headlights on a 1965 Riviera? Did the original mechanism work well, should I restore it to stock? Or is it worth redoing it with new actuators? I've heard the original clamshells didn't work well.
Restore what you have. The key to a long-lasting, well-working system is to ensure that it's adjusted correctly and most importantly lubrication, lubrication, and lubrication and then lube it again.
I used to have a service bulletin which described how to adjust and lube the system, but it's lost; however, your can probably get a copy from the ROA's library.
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See attached diagram from the service manual.
Good luck locating the switch. It's difficult to find.
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Last week I attended a program"Preservation Vs Restoration" that was done by the Crawford Auto Museum in Cleveland,OH. The speaker was David Schultz who is the executive director of the Glenmoor Gathering of Significant Automobiles show and where I was the chief judge of this show for 6 years. Mr. Schultz has also been a judge at Pebble Beach.
It is Mr. Schultz's professional opinion that if you own an all original car, you should preserve it in a functional running and driving condition no matter what the current condition it is in.
As an example, Mr. Schultz owns an all original Locomobile. The paint is worn down in some places to the primer and the rest is severely dull, the top has some holes in it and the upholestery is cracked due to it not having side windows.
He absolutely will not restore this car, choosing to only keep it functional and in running condition. He stated that the hobby needs to preserve more all original cars as a "benchmark" for those wishing to restore one in the future.
Our Riviera's were painted in acrylic lacquer paint, which is no longer available. The new modern paints will not give the same look.
Mr. Schultz went on to say that many car shows are now recognizing the importance of all original cars and now have a separate class for them. He also stated that serious car collectors are now paying more money for an all original car with all it's flaws than one that has been perfectly restored.
Robert Bonto
ROA # 277
Technical Advisor 71-73:)
Although I appreciate and agree with David Schultz's position, I want a car that I can enjoy AND that looks nice. I'm ALL for originality to the extent that it looks new or close to it. I've gone to great lengths to ensue that my car will look original, but I also want it to appear shiny and new as when it drove off the showroom floor. I'll leave that patina cars to those who want to stay original no matter what.
The only customization that I'm doing on my car is that I've added vacuum door locks from a '65 Electra, polished the aluminum valve covers, mounted an under hood light that I found on a '65 Olds, and I will probably cover the plastic armrest bases in vinyl.
I have found that between the service and illustrated parts manuals, catalogs, trim books, and the huge amount of quality repro vendors, there's enough resources to get me close to having a very good car. But that's just me.
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I agree with Dick.
Although I'm a fan of original cars, if the car's finish is crappy, paint it the color you like (although I'd strongly suggest a color available in '65). I think my car's original color was Sahara Mist (a color I hate). I had it painted burgundy mist (a color I've grown to hate) and now have it disassembled and being prepped for Turquoise Mist over black cloth and I'm adding the vinyl top.
I don't care what the data plate says.
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It's being reproduced at oldbuickparts.com. See page 45 of the Riviera Catalog. Part number WJ-630.
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Thanks for confirming my suspicions. All of my cars have had cruise. I have the service manual on CD which shows a relay for the buzzer in the “optional” harness. I have the connector for the buzzer in my harness, but no relay. So, I wasn’t sure if I was missing something.
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The wood kit from Cars, Inc. (www.oldbuickparts.com) is not high gloss and is identical to original.
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Regarding the wood wheel, you can still find OEM wood wheels. The hornbars are being reproduced by Gene Guarnare (abang@aol.com) the steering wheel interior components are being reproduced and are available at <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on">Clarks</st1:place>, the mounting hubs are being reproduced and are available on ebay. The actual wheels and center caps show up on ebay occasionly. So, if you want a factory correct look, the stuff is still out there. Nothin' beats the original look.
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In my effort to make sure that everything is connected correctly, I've removed my dash, dash panel, gauges, radio, glovebox section to expose the wiring harness make any necessary repairs.
My car has the upgraded wiring harness which allows for guidematic, power vents, and cruise control. Can anyone tell me if cars equipped with cruise have the speed alert feature that buzzes when the car exceeds a certain speed? I have the connection for it, but I don't have the relay shown in the service manual.
Speaking of the guidematic it there a way to be sure it works while the car is apart? Is there a way to test it?
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It took me few days, but I've figured it out. I took someone's suggestion to slide a scraper between the wood and the trim and gently lifted/twisted/pushed the trim outward. . The trim is retained by humps which protrude from the wood covered back panel. Once a side piece is removed, the top and bottom trim can be slid from the back panel in the the direction of the side trim that was removed. To remove the opposite side just repeat the process.
Since I'd soaked the panel in lacquer thinner, it peeled off in one piece.
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The GM dealerships in my area don't have interior light lens sets for a 1964 Riv. Can anyone give me the number of a dealership that has them?
Buy it at oldbuickparts.com or clark's corvair.
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Deluxe
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Thanks for the reply Patrick. Although I know some of the basics of buying an older car and I told him about the same thing as far as what to expect for a selling price, there is just no way to know. I guess I was just looking to see if there was any interest in these cars.
I have never seen it but when he sends me photos I will post them. Thanks again.
Dan
First gen rivs are extremely popular and IMO undervalued. The '63 suffers from a complex climate control system and tough to rebuild dynaflow tranny; however, many of us continue to appreciate them.
Consider posting your photos in the Riviera forum.
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I wasn't able to make any progress this weekend towards removing the old wood. The lacquer thinner didn't help and I think a I need to use a different solvent.
My biggest challenge is removing the frame surrounding the panel. It's won't separate from the back panel. How is this done without damaging the frame sections? Please help!
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Met up with a friend today that I haven't seen for several years and started talking about my Electra. It turned out he has his mother's '63 Riviera that has been garaged since 1984 and plans to sell it.
The car is one owner and most likely high miles although he didn't know for sure yet. He said she drove it 1/4 mile to work every day, only because she wore high heels, and a yearly trip to Kansas.
I know the first everyone is going to say is lets see some pictures. I told him that too and will post some when I get them.
Other than that, does anyone have a general idea for a starting price. BTW the car runs and is drivable. I told him I would post it in the buy/sell section later.
Dan
Price is a function of condition and options. It could be a $500 or a $10000 or more car. It's tough to even guess without exterior/interior photos.
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Yes, the chrome trim on the panel that you removed comes off.
I can see that it separates from the panel; however, I can't see hot to remove without damaging the trim. What's the secret?
I've started soaking the first panel in a lacquer thinner. I made a pan from a sheet of aluminum foil, laid in the panel and covered with the thinner. I hope this breaks down the adhesive allowing for EZ wood removal.
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Several folks have described removing the chrome parts and I'm not sure what's being described. I've separated the metal panel to which the wood is secured from the door panel. Is that the chrome that's being described or can the metal panel be further broken down?
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I used a syringe filled with lacquer thinner to release the bond. Start at a corner, ease a wee bit of thinner under the edge and coax it along with a putty knife. to apply the new panels, I used a spray adhesive ( 3M super 77) . after masking off the chrome bits.
I suspect that this would not be an easy task. My weekend is now booked.
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Has anyone out there replaced the door panel wood inserts using one of the wood replacement kits? I got as far as separating the "frame" from the door panel and saw no easy way to remove the old wood. I have no experience here (except for the console inserts). Is the best way just to have a upholstery shop do the work? Would be interest to know if anyone has gone that route.
I'm thinking of soaking them in water for a few weeks to soften/remove, but I want to know if there is a better approach. Also,
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Thanks, fellas.
Your advice helped me solve questions 3 (vertical seal), and 4 (courtesy lights).
The felts (2) seems a project that will require a little more time, but question number 1 (rear console lens) still has me stumped.
I have the buick chassis manual on CD, and the exploded diagram of the "Plate assem-rear trim" shows two screws that hold the chrome trim onto the console, attaching just beneath the light opening. I can't find these. I can only find a single screw beneath the courtesy lamp lens. Removing that doesn't do the trick. Any advice on this?
One other question...Anybody know a source for paint to use on the dash and armrest areas (mine is has rubbed off in a few areas). Thanks!
Any decent paint shop has paint chips for 65.
After looking at the diagram on service manual page 10-93, I don't see a way to remove the console light without removing the console. I'm stumped here. It has been too long for me to remember.
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I'm renewing some of the plastic and rubber pieces on my 65 Riviera, and could use a little guidance on the following items:
1. Rear Console Lens: I just had a look, and can't figure out how to do it short of disassembling the entire console. Any recommendations?
2. Window Felts: Do the old one's slide out? Not sure how to do this
3. Vertical Seal (between the leading edge of the front window and the vent window): Can this be done without removing the window?
4. Round Courtesy Lights: Do these twist off? Pry off?
Thanks for any advice. Joe
Question #1: You should be able to remove the ribbed chrome piece from the console to expose the screws securing the lens. It's been a long time, but that's what I remember.
Question #2: The outer window fuzzies (i.e., on the dor skin) are secured to the stainless trim with staples. You first needs to remove the stainless trim by removing the screws securing it to the door skin. Then remove the old fuzzies by carefully prying out the staples.
Now for the hard part. I like to intall new staples in the same holes as that the originals staples used. To do this, you need to align the new fuzzies with the stainless trim and mark drill sites that correspond to the original holes. Once you drill the holes for the staples, push a new staple through the fuzzy side and into the stainless and crimp the staple with pliers or your thumb or whatever. Be patient. Be patient. Be patient. I just did a set last week.
Question #3: No the window does not need to be removed. It's been years since I've done this, but I think that the old one slides out and the new slides in.
Question #4: To remove the round courtesy lights, delicately slide a screw driver between the plastic lens and the bezel and I think (it's been a while) this exposes screws that secure the bezel into the sail panel. Again, this is from memory, but it ain't hard to do.
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I was walking through the mall and was suprised to see a '64 used in a young woman's clothing store ad: http://www.charlotterusse.com/home/index.jsp
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You'll find them at Cars, Inc.:
http://www.oldbuickparts.com/commerce/product_info.php?cPath=19_32_128&products_id=1296
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I beleive that Old Buick Part (i.e., Cars, Inc.) sells the Clarks kits. I ordered the Clark's black fabric and vinyl kit and it's a quality product in terms of construction and appearance.
WTB: '66 Wildcat wheel well trim
in Buick - Buy/Sell
Posted
If you're still looking for the the trim, I may have it. At best, I may have it NOS, at worst, it'll be very good used. I have two or three NOS wheel well trim pieces as well as other '66 Cat (coupe) trim. If you'd like me to check, please send me an email at patrickalston@yahoo.com.