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Machine Gun

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Posts posted by Machine Gun

  1. I use Chrome on my MacBook Pro and have never had a problem. There seems to be no common thread among those who are having the problem, at least none that anyone has been able to identify so far. Strange.

     

    The only digital subscription I'm 100% satisfied with is Hemmings publications. Subscribers can view them online with the added bonus of being able to download pdfs. I like keeping a library of past issues of magazines. I have no room or desire to maintain a physical library and I don't want to have to be online every time I want to read an issue. Hemmings does it right from my perspective.

     

    I can understand why BCA handles the Bugle the way it does and I respect their decision. However unlike BCA, American Radio Relay League, and perhaps other organizations that offer digital publications, Hemmings is not an active organization but is instead a publisher whose entire existence is about the publications. If they don't seem to worry about publication piracy why would BCA think it would materially impact their memberships? I'm not being critical of BCA because I don't know the full story behind their thinking, but from a member's perspective I'm only 50% satisfied with digital Bugle.

     

    P.S. - I'm wearing my asbestos underwear, so feel free to light your flame throwers.

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  2. Check these guys out: https://www.julianos.com/Seat-Belts-s/96.htm. I installed three-point belts in my Skylark. Juliano's website has instructions on installation of lap and shoulder belt systems as well as examples of how they were installed in certain classic cars and trucks. How effective are they? I don't know, and hope to never find out. However, I think their belts and installation methods are the best that most of us can achieve in our garages.

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  3. I carry only what I can reasonably replace roadside or in a parking lot. Small items like belts and ignition parts (cap, rotor, plugs, points condenser). Things like a fuel pump, water pump, starter, etc.? No. If they're old enough that I would want to carry spares on a long road trip I'd replace them before the trip in the comfort of my own garage rather than risk the inconvenience of having them fail many miles from home. Any failures more serious than that are probably going to require a flatbed anyway, so there's no point in carrying a parts warehouse in your trunk. Preemptive strikes like that are part of getting the car ready for a road trip. That philosophy served me well over the years. 

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  4. 3 hours ago, rodneybeauchamp said:

    Jim, not sure if I mentioned it here but there are some great factory resources put out by Rochester on the rebuild and setting up of their series of carburettors.

    Hi Rodney:

     

    Thanx for the tip on available resources. I did download the Delco Rochester service manual some time ago. Unfortunately it didn't provide any clues as to why my carb acts the ways it does, which is why I opted to get a completely different unit. For whatever reason I decided to hold onto my core. I will clean it and store it away. It performed flawlessly apart from the overflow issue described on this forum ad nauseam. 

  5. 12 hours ago, EmTee said:

    6-point ONLY!  Try not to use a jack handle or cheap 4-way wrench if you can avoid it.  Most of those are too sloppy (i.e., big) and can damage the nut.

    I keep a proper socket and a cheap Harbor Freight 18" socket handle in each of my vehicles. The ones that come with most cars are too short at best, and both short and sloppy at worst.

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  6. I installed the replacement carburetor yesterday and road tested the car. It performed well, just as I hoped it would. As for the vomiting of fuel, whether that problem has finally been taken care of remains to be seen over time. So as it now stands, my carburetor woes seem to have been "solved" for the Nth time.

     

    I didn't install the vent tube. I have a length of 1/4" tubing whose OD measures exactly the same as the one in the old carb, yet the fit is so tight I'm afraid that I'll damage something trying to get it into the hole. Considering that the car runs just fine as-is I'm going to leave well enough alone for now. The real test will come when I drive in various traffic and weather conditions to see if I notice any issues. If I do, I'll deal with the tube then.

     

    The car is now in hibernation. Thanx for your comments.

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  7. 10 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

    Thinking about the problem, and not having had such an issue myself, may I ask if there is a spring that goes on the pivot bar for the float? If so I wonder if that is broken, or weak, or installed backwards, or maybe missing? 

    Good question John. If you're referring to the tang that connects the float arm to the needle, there is none. No spring anywhere else either. Some 2GVs and other carbs I've seen have one, but not mine. The service manual indicates that none is needed. I went for a totally different carb on the outside chance that there's something peculiar about mine that no one has been able to figure out. Wish me luck with this one. If the problem eventually returns I'll have a tough decision to make, whether I should set the car on fire or point it toward a cliff and put a brick on the accelerator.

  8. On 12/12/2023 at 10:21 PM, NTX5467 said:

    I thought you had installed a Holley 2bbl that was working well?

    I did, and I thought so. After a month or so I realized that it was working well enough. My enthusiasm for the new carb was clouded by the fact that it didn't vomit fuel upon starting after sitting for several days. I set a pretty low bar. I might have been quite satisfied with the Holley had I not become used to the 2GV, the particular flavor of which is tuned for a specific engine. 

     

    The practically-new Holley is back in its original box and awaits my motivation to list it for sale.

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  9. The jury seems to be out on just how important the vent tube is. I decided not to send the carb back to get a tube installed for two reasons. First, I need to get the car up and running before the first snowfall and road salting so I can determine if the carb is working properly overall. I have a 90-day warranty. Sending it back now will almost ensure that it won't get back here in time before salt season starts. Second, I'm going to try running the car without the tube to see if I notice any deficiency in performance. If I do, it'll be a quick and simple matter to install a tube. It's 0.25" O.D. Hopefully sometime today...

  10. I picked up another 2GV that I will put on my '64 Skylark to replace the troublesome one that I've been using. Interestingly, the replacement unit is missing the internal vent tube that vents the bowl into the air horn right  beneath the air cleaner. The tube on the old carburetor seems to be staked in so it's not a simple matter to move it to the new one.

     

    My question is, how necessary is it to have a tube installed there? Whether or not there's tube installed the hole, the vapors will still vent into the air cleaner. Given that the manufacturer put a tube there I assume it's needed for something.18403DB1-F0AF-4AE5-A4B5-53C75D086795.jpeg.25bf71ff9c08f27eff9f7331062c7d70.jpeg7C29064E-FEF6-4A0D-A5EC-8E2D31079181.jpeg.e47db947ed8fbecd7edcf12f3fde8788.jpeg

  11. 9 hours ago, JohnD1956 said:

    I missed Jims ( @Machine Gun )comment about no annual inspection for 1995 and earlier years cars in New Jersey.  It sounds marvelous, until the reality of what some people will actually drive appears. 

    Those with little concern for their own life, and none for others, who drive unsafe vehicles because of ignorance, poverty, or lack of consciousness are a real threat to innocent populations.  It is most unfortunate that those who do play by the rules are forced to prove it with an annual inspection.  But I can only hope that inspection process can, and does, remove some of the unsafe vehicles from my intended path.  

    This in no way condones what Rodney has been forced to endure with this Riviera. From my experience with my 95 Riv, and what I have seen on period Buicks, his inspection should focus on questionable brake lines and frame to body mounts. 

    Inspections in NJ were pretty comprehensive back when I started driving. They checked wheel alignment, tire condition, headlight aiming, brake balance, operation of wipers, horn, turn signals, and all other lights. They would even raise the front end and check for excessive play in the wheel bearings, and ball joints. Unlike NYS all inspections back then were done by NJDMV, not by independent authorized shops. Why NJ stopped inspections for older cars is a mystery to me. Today, mandatory inspections for newer cars consist solely of an emissions check. I'll bet that if it were not for federal highway funding NJ would conduct no inspections at all.

     

    While your point about potentially unsafe vehicles on the road is well taken and I totally agree with you, I'm more afraid of distracted drivers in their monster SUVs barreling down the road. Hardly more than two days go by up here when I see a vehicle cross the line, no BS. That's one of the reasons I gave up my motorcycle, and why I won't buy another sports car like my much-loved Fiat 124 Spyder back "when I wore a younger man's clothes."

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