vergil

Thanks, Paul! That's the information I needed. The vacuum pump is missing the fuel tank and intake manifold fittings and the carburetor tube had been cut off. That's a job for another day. Bill

Does anyone have any information on locating a proper replacement inline fuel pump for my '16 Touring Car? The car came equipped with one which has worked fine until it just stopped. No telling how long it's been there. I can't find any name or numbers on it. Thanks! Bill

This afternoon I went to a car show which broke up after dark. As I have never driven this car at night I though it wise to ask my daughter-in-law to follow me. She told me that when I started out after stopping at a red light, the car emitted lots of black smoke. (She also said I was doing 40 although the speedometer registered only 25-30). Could the smoke be built up carbon blowing out, a signal for a carburetor adjustment or something else?I usually drive the car around town on short trips 25MPH max. Thanks! Bill I just went out and checked. I had not pushed the choke back in!

Roger, I would also appreciate your drawing of the top flap before I put on a new top on my '16. Just a couple of other questions regarding authenticity: Should the windshield frame be slightly slanted as on later models? Is the engine number A185-CWC correct for this year? Thanks! Bill Falls #5571 vergil@ix.netcom.com

My '16 had such a flap which I plan on re-installing when the new top goes on. I'm not sure that this is correct as there were other problems with the previous top, bows and brackets.

Hi Jan! Once again you've come through for me! I burned out the remaining wood from the sockets as you suggested and just this afternoon I started rasping and shaving the bows and it sure does go a lot faster. Thanks very much!

I have unfinished laminated top bows and am having a very slow time of "finishing" the ends which go into the sockets. I've been sanding then to keep them smooth. Can anyone suggest a better, i.e., faster way of doing this? Thanks! Bill

Thank you DBBilly for your very useful post. What I really wanted to know-and I think you have answered that-was do I need to reproduce that 1x4 which holds the clamps and is attached to the front bow. The front and rear bows were four inches too narrow and five inches too wide respectively so the top irons would not rest in the saddles. All I need to do now is to fit the new bows and that piece up front and we're ready for a new top. Thanks again!

Can anyone tell me how the top attaches to the windshield posts? I have removed a 1x4 which was attached to the front bow. Is this the way to go or is there another suggestion? I'm trying to add a picture of what I have but seem to be having no luck. Thanks!

Thanks, Jan. This is the answer I was looking for. Yes, all the nails are out and I also drilled a few holes with an 18" bit which should make the burning out a little easier.

Any suggestions as how to remove what's left of the longer top bows in their sockets.They were broken right at the end of the sockets. They're in there really tight and I've only been able to chip away at the first 6 inches using a wood borer.

If I'm not mistaken, these are from a DB truck, probably Chrysler era.

Thanks to everyone for your help in diagnosing this problem. It seems the problem is a combination of oil and my inexperience in shifting these old cars. I have found that holding the clutch in for about a minute enables the shaft to stop spinning. I am waiting for something other than 600W (ISO 1000 UD-WBE-1000) which should eanble gears to change without grinding. To rectify the play in the gearshift lever, take a piece of 1/16" diameter solid rubber, remove the circular nut on top of the transmission where the lever enters the transmission, cut rubber to fit, lightly grease and reinstall the circular nut.(Thanks to Roger Berchtold for all of the above).

I have been corresponding with a couple of Brothers regarding possible solutions to a transmission/clutch problem. Need to give them a rest.I cannot get the car into any gear with the motor running. Transmission and clutch appear to be o.k. The shaft keeps spinning and doesn't want to slow down. Also, there is a great deal of play in the gear shift lever. Is this normal or could this be part of the problem? Does anyone know of a reliable mechanic in Southern California who might be able to take a look at this? I am in South Orange County. Thanks to all. Bill

There is an apparent discrepancy between the production dates listed in the Mechanics' Instruction Manual and those cited at Myers Early Dodge. I believe this can be accounted for by reading the interesting footnote at the end of the dates listed at www.myersearlydodge.com. My DB has always been registered as a 1916, but in the Instruction Manual it is listed as 1917 "series".

Can anyone tell me the correct idle setting for a 1916 DB?

Thanks for all your help. I think the problem is solved. I have to take her out again, but just around the neighborhood she seems to change gears very well.

Many thanks from a native Pennsylvanian! I have put the heaviest gear oil I could find in the transmission. Myers carries 600w gear oil@ $18/qt. Would that suffice or do I still need to add the track lube?

It's the later with multiple disk. Is the "Track Lube" the grease that goes in via the clutch release cup? Thanks, Rodger!

It grinds. It also does not downshift when stopped with the motor running. I have to turn off the engine, then it will engage.

Car shifts effortlessy upward. I have been unable to effectively downshift from 3rd to 2nd or 2nd to 1st. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Aside from nearchocolatetown, who is an excellent source, I find that Tom Myers is also a great source (734-856-1207).

Thanks again! You are a most helpful enthusiast!

I sm replacing Champion c-4's. I have Champion 518 W18 plugs to install. Am I correct? The repair manual suggests .030" gap. I just don't want to make a mistake.

I have just mounted four new 33x4 tires. Before I drive any distance, can anyone tell me the correct tire pressure? Thanks! Bill