Machinist_Bill
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Posts posted by Machinist_Bill
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I love making comments and making more work for others so here goes:
You might want to pull the oil pan and see what goodies are hiding in there!
Bill
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1 hour ago, Spinneyhill said:
I often wonder if it is a good idea to put a groove in a bush. The groove just feeds the oil out each end of the bush without it actually lubricating anything? I have read this somewhere too. If you do not put in a groove, the spinning shaft and the surface tension of the oil pull the oil into the bush and spread it.
If the groove is not in place then the "Load" of the spinning shaft would force out the lubrication. Then there would be a heat build up. Then the brass would seize onto the shaft. Brass loves to do this!
Bill
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OK, you say it's only the passenger side. See if there are any differences between the drivers and passenger side hinges. Something doesn't sound right. Have you mounted the doors or did you purchase it that way?
Bill
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I love the looks of the later model tourings like yours and the '26. Maybe in another life......
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Hello Mike!
Have you added up the dollars in yours yet? I kept track until I hit $8K. I don't keep track anymore.
Seems like a nice car for the money. Is the rear window correct?
Bill
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Relax Ray. Have a new seat installed. It's only 4:1 compression. Everything will be fine.
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Good luck Rogillio!
I know you put a lot of work into that coupe and wish I had the dollars to purchase yours. It would be a lot cheaper than doing mine!
I wish you all the best!
Bill
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I have been waiting for the experts to show up but it looks like you're stuck with me. I have a 5th edition parts book that shows your part as #2571 & #2572. Wish I could be more helpful.
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Thanks Hugh!
Looks like your friend and I have the only ones on this forum. With the help of your photo maybe my daughter can hand paint the dial. No way can my hand be steady enough!
Thanks for taking the time to answer this old thread and post a photo.
Bill
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The lever switch that mounts on the column? If so, I will look this weekend.
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Wow Ray! Don't you love all the surprises? You are correct on drilling small holes at the ends of the crack. This eliminates a "Break" edge for further cracking. If the crack is all the way thru then you drill all the way thru.
I have tried everything on cast cracks and all failed eventually. The reason why is because the heat causes the cast iron to expand and contract when it cools. To successfully repair the crack you need a filler that expands and contracts at the same rate as cast iron. All of the above products do not.
I have heard of a process where the block is heated to approx. 1400 degrees and new iron is actually melted into the the bad area. It is then packed with K-Wool and slow cooled for about a week. This is very expensive and you could replace your block a LOT CHEAPER!
If all else fails find a good weld shop. They will pre-heat with a rosebud and weld with ni-rod. Be ready to pack with insulation and SLOW COOL. Any cool air will crack it faster than you can say WTF!
One more thing when you grind the cast where a respirator. Back in the day there was beryllium in the metal.......
Keep us informed Ray.
Bill
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This is a great topic! I just picked up a 1927 "D" engine and transmission and it's a little different than the trans I have with a "C" engine. Because it's a single disc clutch I doubt it will fit a "C".
Hey fsnooks!
It's been a long time since we had correspondence! What engine do you have? I'm not sure if a "B" engine will accept a "C" engine trans. I have always said that 1926-1927 are very confusing because of all the changes. I will keep an eye on this thread. If we need some reference photos let me know.........
Bill
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Hello Ray,
It might be better if you post the journal size of the crankshaft. Who knows how many times it has been ground over the years.
Worst case scenario you could weld up the journal and grind to fit your old bearings. (With some minor scraping of course)
I know your in a hurry. Too bad you are across the pond instead of across the street. I have an old "C" engine buried in a shed out back somewhere.........
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I NEVER would have guessed that! Great problem solving Ray!
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Count me in! Count me in for 2 as Ray in the UK will probably want one too!
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Explain Ray. Maybe I can help........
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Okay, I looked in the A & B sedan listing and it matches your measurements. Darn parts book reads like computer instructions!
Correction to previous post:
Top Glass - DB part #19051 - 38" x 13-5/8" x 7/32"
Lower Glass - DB part #19063 - 38" x 3-21/32" x 7/32"
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I think your upper glass is DB part #15266 and measures 37-3/4" x 12" x 7/32" thick.
The lower is DB part #15256 and measures 37-3/4" x 6" x 7/32" thick.
Let me know if this is correct and I can post the original DB drawings.
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I didn't want to purchase a truck so I bought a Harbor Freight trailer (4' x 8') to pull behind my 2012 Chrysler 200. I've hauled junk from one end of the country to the other with it! The best part? 28 MPG! Total cost with trailer, hitch, electrical, and me doing it was $600. 1750 lb capacity so there's not much you can't haul.
Good luck!
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Probably the most innovative and safe design change ever made to an automobile was disc brakes. Unfortunately it changed our driving habits. We used to keep one car length per 10 mph of speed. Now we just keep the one car length........
I agree with nearchoclatetown 100%.
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You could probably get by with a 5-10 micro inch grind. Personally I would lean towards a 3-5. Your grinder will understand my numbers.
Good Luck!
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Great advice Jon!
You are truly the carb king!
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Took me 10 years to find wood good enough to make measurements from. A street rodder had a low miledge Coupe stored indoors since the 40's. He went with a steel roof and I went home with 90 year old firewood!
I haven't taken measurements yet but am planning to do so later this year. Life seems to get in the way.
I planned on drawing them up, CNC mill to shape, and sell kits to the 5 people in the world that need them! (It might be less than that)
Bill
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I'm going to try and paint my small parts black with an appliance epoxy. Takes forever to dry but is very durable. I refurbished an antique freezer and painted it white with it and it turned out beautiful.
Just a suggestion..........
How far should I go with this engine
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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If I was 20 years younger I would have a mobile repair van loaded with tooling so I could machine valves, guides, and seats with the engine in place.
If you need seats this can be done. Maybe find a local guy that can do this for you. Saves you a LOT of work!