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Machinist_Bill

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Posts posted by Machinist_Bill

  1. Jason, you and I have gone over this topic many times. When I was getting ready to rod the coupe you suggested that I find a less desirable rusted 4-door sedan. Here is a guy who has a less desirable rusted 4-door sedan and wants to build it his way and you protest. Granted he is on the wrong website and we should suggest he move on. (But let Mike know where he's going)

    I had a conversation with Don and here is his quote:"...if it had less rust out around the lower area, maybe. But, since it does have a lot of rust, it's a perfect hot rod candidate". So at least he's giving it a thought.

    On the HAMB 2 weeks ago I read a thread where a guy bought a fully restored 1930 Model A. He then chopped the top, ripped it apart, and then lost interest and sold it. Even the HAMB guys jumped all over him! If he would have finished it I would say he followed his own mind. I'm guessing this is the wave of the future and it's sad but life goes on.

    This is not an insult to anyone just my opinion.....

    Born again senior citizen old guy with a 86 year old money pit.......

  2. Welcome back Don!

    I am in the Detroit area quite a bit. I also have a friend in the area so a local pickup would not be a problem. I would be interested in the rear bumper, wiper motor, and front apron under the radiator if you are not using those parts. Give me a PM when you have time.....

    Bill

  3. The starter is not a starter/generator. As a 1926 116 6 volt 2 unit model, it should have a six volt starter and battery. What I suspect is that before I got the car (as a non runner), someone might have fitted a 12 volt starter by mistake and that could be the reason why it was burnt out. The risk is that although a 6 volt armature has been installed by the rebuilder (who also had to replace the centre bearing plate) while the 12 volt field windings remain in situ. the starter will burn out again if I continue to use it as it is.

    As to amperage; half the voltage = twice the amperage I believe; hence the need for heavier gauge wire in the field windings?

    I am grateful for the input, guys, keep it going!

    Ray.

    Here I go stickin' my 2 cents worth.... I bought a '49 Chevy once with a 6 volt system and always had a hard time with starters. I finally had to use thick welding lead cables to solve the problem. I was trying to use 12 volt standard battery cables which wasn't working! It seems like those 6 volt buggers take alot of amps..... Bear with me Rick I'm a Machinist NOT a Electrician.

    Bill

  4. What channel is the bikini volleyball game on? Oh, and what size, approximately, is your tank?

    Hello Willy!

    I am not much of a sports fan because of the time spent under cars. Last summer ESPN had a bikini volleyball game on while I was taking a "Break" and not much more got done on the car. They have even come out with bikini football so the "Break" times might be getting longer! If they come out with bikini basketball the TV will have to come out of the garage......

    Here is the tank, the size is 20" x 40" x 24" deep. Not big enough for doors but it was cheap. Notice the air line at the bottom. This makes it a "Jacuzzi" for molasses! I will stop this next week and pick up the molasses and try it next weekend. The weather forecast shows above normal temps so the stuff won't freeze.

    post-52313-143138878798_thumb.jpg

    post-52313-143138878802_thumb.jpg

  5. This has to be one of the best posts on this forum! Simple, easy to read and understand, great info!

    Just a "Thank You' for the time it takes to scan and post Jason. You could be doing other things with your time like trying to find those carpet snaps!

  6. One more thing Mike, does it look like the radial load bushings could be replaced with needle roller bearings? If you kept some sizes (OD & ID & Length) maybe we can replace those. I have a bearing manual available to size it.

    I am asking all these questions BEFORE I do mine! And because the old cars have steering by arm-strong I am trying to make it easier........um "Safety Upgrade".

    Bill

  7. That's what I thought Mike but wanted to be sure on how to set the pre-load on the thrust ends.

    Jason, how can letting the car down on it's suspension cause a bind in the steering box? Could it be body flex and the column support under the dash cause the bind? All joints from the pittman arm are pivoted ball joints so where would the bind come from?

    Bill

  8. You are correct Jason BUT instead of "Laziness" let's call it"Multi-Task Time Management". I could be doing something else while the parts are cooking! You know, like watching a bikini volley ball game, Having a beer, or something else constructive. Sure beats the heck out of suiting up and spending the day sandblasting and then half the night removing sand from every crevice in your body. You have a better way??????

    Lazy Bill

  9. Thanks for correcting me on the resistor Rick. My parts book shows the same switch but has 2 part numbers. One for 6 volts and one for 12. I thought the resistor was the difference. NEVER let a Machinist do any wiring!

    Bill

  10. Mike, is that your original switch from your '25? The reason I ask is there are two versions of that switch (I think) 12 volt & 6 volt. I see the resistor on your which might make it a 6 volt switch.

    Somebody correct me if i'm wrong please!

    Bill

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