Machinist_Bill
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Posts posted by Machinist_Bill
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Please remember this is only a suggestion as there are countless ways to do this. I always break down a restoration into three groups: Engine & Trans, Rolling Chassis, and body. Once these are all separated the fun begins. If you are not capable of doing bodywork then send it out. As you are waiting for the bodywork to get completed you can move onto the engine and trans. In your spare time you can remove parts from the frame. NOTE!!! As you remove parts restore that part immediately, tag it, wrap it, store it. This way when all the parts are removed from the frame they will be installed right after the frame is prepared and painted. Same with the other groups. When your chassis is done so should the engine and trans. And last but not least the body gets installed. Having done several cars this has worked best for me.
Bear in mind that if you do everything yourself you will save money...BUT!!!!!
It took one year of my life working 6 days a week, 12 hours a day to restore a 1970 Dodge Challenger convertible. I almost lost my wife on that one......
I think you can see where I'm going on this....
Good Luck!
Bill
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Merry Christmas From The Midwest!
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That's Fantastic Juan!
Because Dave Wollam was kind enough to tell me my manifold was junk I have been busy trying to repair it.
There are probably a hundred ways to fix this but I chose to go with a step sleeve so when everything is tightened there are shoulders to "seat" on. Because the ports are not perfectly round I will have to do some grinding to blend the sleeve in. I will make the sleeve next week and update with more photos.
Bill
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WOW! If you do that PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!! The temperature of liquid Nitrogen is -320 degrees. Use proper gloves and eye/face protection when doing that.
Better yet, let the people at Praxair do it for you!
Just my 2 cents........
Bill
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Hey Juan! It looks like the experts have determined that it will work for you. That's Great!
You can have the manifold for shipping costs. I need to show you a little bit of damage on one of the flanges. It should not interfere with the sealing of the copper ring. See photo. If you want it just contact me thru my work email that you have.Bill
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Jason,
I have been trying to find Juan a replacement manifold for his Paddy wagon. I found one in my barn I could give him if it would fit. I'm not up to speed on the truck differences. See the photos......
Bill
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Wow Rick! Very nice list of finished cars!
Around my house the definition of a "Finished" car is when the wife stops me from putting anymore $$$ in them. See the list below. For about the next 4 months they are "Finished".
Sorry for hijacking this thread but Rick's cars overwhelmed me......
Bill
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Rick, I couldn't help noticing your 17 vehicle list. Dave Wollam has 17. Both lists are very impressive! Is there a tie-breaker in the future?
Bill
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Same to you Jason!
Everyone drive safe.......
Bill
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Dave,
Do you have a detailed photo you could post for that trunk lid? Most of the parts I see in swap meets are not described correctly so a photo is valuable!
Bill
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Ok scliim, Im going to ask you something that I haven't asked anyone in the 4 years that I have been on this forum. JOIN THE DODGE BROTHERS CLUB!
I have come back from the dark side and joined the club this month. I just received my welcome packet and club roster list and there is only a handful of coupes like yours (And mine) out there. My youngest daughter, who grew up with Hotrods and musclecars, says that I am now officially a "Senior Citizen".
I think I will take Dave's suggestion with the Por-15 and let it age on mine! Let me know what parts you need as Im a pretty good scrounger! Im the guy you see at swap meets digging in the bucket of parts!
Bill
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It is a 1926. The 3 door hinges and the trunk lid gives it away. I agree with everyone here! DRIVE IT!!!
Bill
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According to the records I have your car was built the first week of March, 1926. Yours is 12 Volt. The 6 volt models started with A557003 on Monday March 8, 1926. It should be titled 1926 unless your frame number is 1925. Post some photos!
Bill
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I believe the 24 has an aluminum spider and as Willy says the ends are embedded in the rim. The earlier car like Willy's is iron or steel and has screws to attach the spider to the rim. Now what I can't remember is which of the later cars had the wood rims and which had the hard rubber rims, closed or open cars?
Dave, My March built 1926 sedan has the hard rubber wheel.
Bill
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Thanks John! Every tidbit of info helps alot!
Bill
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Heck, count me in too please? ragtopchallenger@netnitco.net
Bill
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Ok, I sat here and waited but now I have to know.......
Is the nail back in?????????
Bill
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Sorry Mike I can't find it. Once again maybe a '25 owner can give you a sketch. Anyone???
Bill
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Dave,
I live across the road from the Kankakee Mafia burial ground if you need a place to put those clowns when they are caught! If you watch the movie "Casino" they buried the two brothers in a Indiana cornfield. Yep, area 9 in the Willow Slough Fish & Game area! True story....
Tell Bill I have a set of doors. They will need work on dents and rusty bottoms. I am in the process of removing all the hardware and garnish moldings that I needed for the coupe. These will be bare shells with hinges!
Bill
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Found It! Although I don't think it's been used as a starter switch in the last 57 years I have been on this planet. It still moves so a shot of Kroil will make it feel better! 4 cans of the stuff so far at $9.50/EA. The whole car is an EPA hazard but all the joints and bolts are coming loose. Thanks for your help Dave!
Bill
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Dave,
Now that you described what it looks like I remember seeing a similar switch in a box of "Junk" that came with the car. At first glance it lookedl ike a dimmer switch with LARGE studs at the bottom. When I get home tonight I'll dig for it and take a photo.
Bill
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Dave,
Was it the same floor switch that was used for the starter/generator cars? I hope so 'cause I have some spares. Right now my checkbook is on an iron lung until the end of the month!
Bill
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Ok, to start off with, I bought this hunk of junk last fall to build a rod. See the first photo of the "Junk". See what I mean? It's a rat!
I started taking the car apart and noticed it has zero rust holes. The brakes are complete. The engine is missing some items but the trans is complete. Steering is all there. Needless to say is that Iv'e had a change of heart! And 1930 Jason? If we ever meet I will take my Crow medium rare with just a dash of salt!
The second photo is the result of countless $$$$ and time replacing missing or damaged parts. My entire dash is missing ALL gauges. I discovered that a first week of March, 1926 build uses a 3850 speedometer. I also replaced the amp & oil gauge with the correct parts. I have 3 questions:
1) Which ignition switch? :confused:
2) Seperate starter switch? :confused:
3) Still uses throttle and spark levers? :confused:
My 1926 sedan is a 12 volt and the Coupe is one of the first 6 volt in production. According to my VIN it looks like they did the change-over on the weekend and mine was built possibly on a Tuesday.
Any help is appreciated!
Bill
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That's still ok. This information I have comes from a Northeast bulletin dated January 1927. It is possible the change began in January. In the bulletin it is stated that the 3850 was used "1922 to date". I'm guessing 1922 to January 1927.
Now we need someone who has a 1927 series with a build date of January or February to confirm this!
Bill
You can have the manifold for shipping costs. I need to show you a little bit of damage on one of the flanges. It should not interfere with the sealing of the copper ring. See photo. If you want it just contact me thru my work email that you have.
DBC Site
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
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I'm in too!