19tom40
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Posts posted by 19tom40
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If you REALLY want to touch it up in lacquer, contact TCP Global to see if they can help you out. They are very good at color matching.
That is a very nice looking car and it is a shame that it was painted in lacquer when a modern paint would look better as well as hold up better. I used lacquer to paint my 40 Mercury black back in 1976 and am still sorry that I did it. It has been repainted with PPG base coat-clear coat and I am much happier with being to maintain the paint to high standards. Lacquer chips easier and fades faster than the base coat-clear coat. There has been NO fading of my paint since it was painted in 2004. I had an accident in 2019 that was repaired in 2020 with paint left over from 2004. The color was spot painted and the clear coat covered the panels damaged. You cannot see where it was repaired.
My preference would be to go with a modern single stage paint and paint the complete quarter panel shown. With a good color match and buff out the different paint type would not be noticeable. New lacquer will fail in the same manner with the additives in the new fuel. If you have small chips that need to be repaired, the modern paint will work there also
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I don't believe that he is. He has his own shop and rebuilds carburetors to a very high standard. He usually installs new throttle shafts and refaces warped and pitted surfaces so that the carburetor performs like it did when new. He uses the Daytona kits with the addition of parts that he has found work better, like the float needle and seat, and power valve. He does not replace parts that are working properly and he can engine test your carburetor before sending it back.
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I would contact Columbia Two Speed Parts and buy their Primer on care and operation of the Columbia. It will save you many headaches and keep your Columbia working properly.
http://www.columbiatwospeedparts.com/index.cfm
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I fall into the Holley power valve trap every time that I suggest changing it. I keep thinking that the power valve rating is where it will open, but it is where it will close. A 5.5 valve will close when vacuum is above 5.5" of vacuum at the valve and a 6.5 valve will close when the vacuum is above 6.5" at the valve. When it is open, it will feed more fuel into the venturi.
When you accelerate the throttle plates are wide open and the vacuum is lower, so the power valve will open. At a steady speed above 25 mph, the vacuum will vary with the load and the vacuum at the power valve will remain in a range of about 5" -15.5" depending on engine load. The 1940 Lincoln carburetor had an 8.5" valve from the factory, and that is what I would start with. What I am trying to say is to get a richer mixture, you need a higher number power valve.
You need identical carbs in a 2 carb system on most dual carb manifolds. This will balance the air and fuel mixture to the engine. Most dual carb manifolds have the carburetors feed a plenum, where the mixture is shared to same extent between all cylinders.
The plan of action should be: Check spark plug color for mixture. If rich, go to lower tension power valve. If all plugs are the same light brown color, you can try a larger size main jets. If that does not fix your problem check your plugs again.
The next step would be to make sure that the power valves open at the the same vacuum and that there are no obstructions to the power valve vacuum port in the base of the carburetor. Make sure that the nozzles are clean and mounted with the correct gaskets and the clamps are secure and not over tightened. Make sure that the throttle plates and venturi are cleaned of any debris or carbon build up. Make sure tat the correct gasket was used between the manifold and the carburetor, and between the base of the carburetor and the body of the carburetor.
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I guess that I still do not know your symptoms
On 3/22/2022 at 9:15 PM, lincolnmatthews said:Starts awesome, idles ok & seems to run ok in the shop. But out on the road it SUCKS big time! It seems to pull pretty good under acceleration but at a steady speed it misses & seems to have severe dead spots. If I push down on the throttle it seems ok.
I think what you are trying to say is that it acts like engine is starving for fuel. At cruising speeds the power valve adds fuel to the fuel delivered through the main jets. I would start with putting stock LZ main jets in both carbs. If the mixture is too rich, you can reduce the size of the jets.
Check your spark plugs for correct fuel mixture. Start with clean plugs, drive the car at speeds higher than 35 mph to 55mph (without OD) to make sure you are using the power circuit for about 50 miles and then drive it into your garage without letting the engine idle for more than 1 minute. Check your plugs for correct color.
If the plugs show a lean mixture, change the power valve in both carbs. I would start by having 6.5 power valves installed in both carbs and go to stock LZ main jets in both carbs. If you still have the problem change out the power valves to 5.5 valves. Some people have started out with the 5.5 and not had a problem with a rich mixture.
The 17" of vacuum is probably alright with the dual carbs, Charlie Schwendler can supply you with the correct power valves and will install them for you so that they do not leak fuel and there will not be a vacuum leak between the base and the body. IMHO he is the best in the business for the Holley 94. he can be contacted at cas5845@yahoo.com
Balancing your carbs for idle mixture is important for idle and speeds up to 25mph.
There should be very little rotational play in the rotor. any play will change the timing from starting all the way to full throttle. If you have play, it can cause starting problems, overheating problems and poor mileage. I use small pieces of shim stock to remove it in used rotors. I return new rotors that have rotational play.
I know it seems like I emphasize testing more than giving you a part to replace, but I do this to make sure that only parts that are not working are the ones replaced. I have seen too many projects go down the tubes and sold dirt cheap because the cars cannot perform properly. It pays to take the time to only fix what is broken and not just throw a part at it because some said it fixed his problem.
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A miss at steady speeds is seldom fuel delivery related. The most common causes of fuel related miss at a steady speed are debris in the float bowl plugging the main jets, float level too low or a vacuum leak. On a single carb system an easy check is to pull out the choke, but that doesn't work very well on a dual carb setup.
An ignition problem is more likely to cause a steady speed miss.
I would start by doing a cylinder balance test at idle and then again at 1,000 rpm.
Connect your tach dwell meter to one of the terminals where the condenser mounts. This will give you a reading ( I am not sure but I think that it will be 50% of the rpm) of the RPM. Short out 1 plug at a time and watch and listen for an rpm drop. Each cylinder should decrease the rpm about the same amount. If any cylinder does not decrease the rpm as much as the other cylinders, examine the wiring to the plug and the plug to determine the cause. If all cylinders create the same drop at idle, repeat the test at a higher rpm.
If the miss was not confined to certain cylinders and you still have a miss at a steady speed, try this tip. Remove the distributor from the car, remove the rotor and fit shrink tubing over the distributor shaft. You should also check for rotational play (none) and end play of the rotor (about 0.005" - 0.010") use shims to reduce the play. Reinstall the distributor and test drive.
Let us know how you make out.
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Here is a link to Chris's post
https://forums.aaca.org/topic/367474-mechanical-fuel-pump/#comment-2261903
I hope that you do have gaskets on both sides of the aluminum spacer.
Did you check for vacuum leaks at the carburetors by spraying starting fluid around the base of the carburetor?
Do you have a modified grind cam along with your dual carburetors?
If you do not have a vacuum leak, I suggest that you do the fuel delivery test that I told Chris to do. If the fuel pump passes that test, check you float level in both carbs.
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Skip's prices have not changed yet, but shipping charges may have changed depending where you live.
E-Mail is the best way to contact him, he is very busy and does not monitor the Ford Barn Forums. He will make an occasional post on there.
Here is a link to the Ford Barn https://www.fordbarn.com/
You have to register to post questions on the Forum. For Lincoln Zephyr questions, you should use the "Early V8" Forum.
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Standard in the Business Coupe.
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The names Business Coupe, Coupe, Sedan Coupe and Club Coupe were used by the stylists to designate models in a model year to fit several different configurations, just as Victoria meant a different configuration to different manufacturers.
In 1940 Ford made 4 variations of the Coupe. The Coupe and the Business Coupe in the Ford and Deluxe Ford. They shared the same body, but the Business Coupe had different floor pan and body bracing allowing it to have the 2 jump seats in the behind the front seat. The Coupe had a package shelf and the back of the front seat was hinged to allow access to a storage area. See the link to the sales brochure.
http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Ford/1940_Ford/1940 Ford Brochure/index1.html
In other years Ford used the name Business Coupe as you described it. They also used the term Club Coupe and Sedan Coupe in different years to describe a Coupe with a back seat.
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it looks like the Columbia 2-speed control valve in the picture on Columbia 2-Speed Parts web site.
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Try this guy. He is doing a resto-mod and may be changing the steering column.
https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=53658
The 51-55 Fords use a similar switch, but it has the additional bypass for the stop lights. You may be able to make one of them work by soldering wires to the input and output terminals. The switch appears to be the same physical size.
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Try looking for a hole on the inside edge of the door, if there is one there should be a screw holding the handle on. Remove the screw and gently pry the handle off. If the car was repainted and the handle not removed before repainting, use an Exacto knife to score the paint as close to the base of the handle as you can to reduce the chance of lifting off paint.
If there is no hole, then the upholstery panel must be removed to remove the screw holding the handle to the lock.
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If you need an engine, there are 2 for sale on E-Bay and here is one from Craigs list
https://memphis.craigslist.org/pts/d/germantown-1941-lincoln-engine-parts/7420814619.html
To search both E-Bay and some craigs list sites
I suspect that your E-Mail went into his Spam folder. This happens quite often to me. I don't have his name and state of residence, so I cannot look him up in the Roster. He would show up there if he were a member of the EFV-8CA and did not have the roster delete option.
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Ad has expired and not renewed.
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I don't know any thing about the problem that you are trying to fix, but if you look at the switch drawing that you posted, the H terminal feeds the head lights, the B terminal on the right feeds the instrument, tail, license and fog lights. The P terminal feeds the parking and tail lights in the park position. The B on the left has the voltage for the lights fed by the B terminal on the right side and the parking lights. The R terminal is the supply line for the head lights and is protected by the circuit breaker.
Your theory about the headlights having one source and the other lights having another source to the switch is correct.
The headlight source (R terminal) comes from the out put of one of the circuit breakers to the R terminal of the switch. If you do not have voltage on that terminal, the circuit breaker is defective.
The other source (B on the left) going to the switch, comes from the output of the other circuit breaker. If you do not have voltage on that wire, the circuit breaker is defective.
I would not wire around either circuit breaker. They are there to protect against fires.
If I can be of further help, please describe the symptoms of your problem.
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The terminal with the red yellow wire comes from the circuit breaker and the black wire feeds the fog light switch, the instrument light and the turn signal switch.
Here is a link to wiring diagrams for the 1936-1948 Lincoln Zephyr based cars: http://www.boos-herrel.com/id62.html
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The 1942 Body Parts catalog does not have an illustration of the left hand latch P/N 11C 8243289, so I don't know if that is what you have. Ford was stingy with illustrations in the early catalogs.
The right hand latch is different from your photo. The handle is attached to the remote with a 16 1/4" rod. I believe that it goes from the handle to the roof.
Siebert may have had some latches made for its use in ambulances and hearses and used them for more than one year or model of conversion. Did you try to ask the question here: https://professionalcarsociety.org/forums/
What is wrong with the one that you have?
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I can not give you a steering wheel play number because there are too many variables. Bias ply tires do not respond to turning the steering wheel as well as radial tires. The worm and roller steering gear is not as responsive as the rack and pinion steering. Old tires and toe adjustment can make the car wander or follow grooves in the road.
There are several causes of excess steering wheel play. I like to lock the steering wheel in the straight ahead position, jack up one front wheel and grab the front and back of the tire then try to turn it left to right. There should be NO play with this test. If there is any play get some assistance so you can see where the play is: tie rod ends, drag link, wheel bearing or steering box.
When you have NO play, grab the top and bottom of the tire and try to move the top in and out. Again there should be NO play. If there is, you will have to replace the king pins and bushings. Repeat both tests on the other front wheel.
When you are satisfied that you have good parts in your steering system, have the front end alignment checked by a shop that does truck alignment. If the caster is out of specs, replace the rubber bushing on the wishbone before bending the axle.
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Email: research@hcfi.org
and ask if they have a copy of the vacuum diagram for your car.
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It has been many years since I worked on the electric windows, so I looked in my shop manuals and parts lists to see if there was a set screw and I did not find one.
I looked up the P/N BD 7323440 on rear counter and found that there is one available
https://www.rearcounter.com/BD7323440-parts1521886.html
You might also try Ford parts vendors to see if they have one. If you strike out, you could make a steel D shaped sleeve to fit on the shaft of the motor and then use a urethane casting product with a hardness rating of Shore A. to secure it to the inside of the coupling. Devcon flexane 90 used to be available at the local hardware store for a reasonable price, but a quick search shows it to be very expensive and hard to get now.
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There is a 1946 V-12 engine for sale on the Early Ford V-8 Club website. Here is a link to it:
https://www.earlyfordv8.org/classifieds.cfm?t=For Sale&c=Parts&id=17279
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I don't have a wiring diagram. There should be a yellow wire from the gauge to the sending unit and the sending unit is grounded through the tank. The gauge has 2 wires, one with voltage and the other goes to the sender.
You can use an ohm meter to check the sending unit. Connect one lead to the terminal on the top of the unit and the other to the case. Meter should be on x1 scale. Meter should read less than 10 ohms throughout the arm movement range.
When converting to 12 volts a voltage reducer is needed for the gauges. I cannot give you a definite answer on the sock, but I don't think that there was one in 55.
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Try placing an ad here: https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/viewforum.php?f=16
You will probably get more help on The Lincoln Forum: https://www.thelincolnforum.net/phpbb3/index.php
It specializes in the later Lincolns, like this Forum does for the earlier Lincolns.
I give up on the V12 Lincoln engine! Help please.
in V12 Lincolns Only
Posted
Jon, I don't mean any disrespect to you and your knowledge about carburetors is much greater than mine, but here is a diagram that shows the power valve flow being added to the main jet flow. I still believe that the power valve will open and close under load at highway speed. If it did not, you would have unwanted speed changes while cruising. A slight load change due to wind or terrain would lead to starving the engine and a slow down.
Matt, Before I put my foot in my mouth again, I would like to know which carburetors you are using. The 94 on the back of the carburetor just give the size of the venturi. The bowl should have an identification number also and that is what is needed to decide on the jet size and power valve rating. The main jets should be sized to give you a fuel mixture that can be properly vaporized and burnt. The power valve should be rated for the model carburetor that you are using.
I strongly disagree with using different size jets in the 2 carbs on a 2 carb manifold. Unless one set is oversized for the application, you will not achieve the correct cylinder balance. I don't know how the runners on the Edelbrock manifold are configured, but if they are configured similar to the LZ manifold you would be starving some cylinders or flooding some cylinders. Think of it this way, would you put a 54 jet in one side of the carburetor and a 57 jet in the other. The 6.5 power valves will only enrich the fuel under heavier loads or higher speeds.