19tom40
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Posts posted by 19tom40
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To determine where the slop is in your steering, jack up one wheel, grab the front and back of the wheel and try to turn left to right. If you feel movement, get an assistant to either turn the wheel or crawl under the car to see where the movement is. To check the kingpins, grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to move the top in and out. If you can then check the wheel bearings or see if the spindle is moving. A moving spindle means worn king pins.
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If you have a good blue spark at idle, I would not worry about the voltage going to the coils, yet. The low voltage is probably not your problem. The low voltage could be coming from the higher resistance of the ignition resisters when they are hot.
Did you replace the spark plugs? I find that the Champion H-10 made today are of poor quality and use the MotorCraft or Autolite. RockAuto has both brands.
Are you now able to adjust the idle mixture? Are your plug sooty again.?
I would look down the throat of the carb while the engine is idling to see if you can see any fuel dribbling in. There should be no fuel visible in the throat at idle. All fuel should be delivered through the idle port below the throttle pales. If all of the above are OK, then you will have to give a better description of the problem.
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Connect a dwell tach meter to the condenser connection on the coil.
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Are you talking about the hinges( the part that bolts to the cowl) or the support arms with the springs attached? Here is a link to photos of one for sale that show the support arms installed.
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1946/ford/pickup/101732972
There doesn't seem to be any drawings in the parts catalogs for the 42-47 trucks, so you are going to have to do an internet search for trucks for sale or ask the question on the Early Ford V-8 Club Forum.
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I do not know of any specified torque rating for the rear axle nut, but here is what I do.
Clean the taper on the axle and the drum with mineral spirits to remove any oil or grease.
Install the drum and tighten the nut using a 2' long breaker bar.
Check for the position of the hole for the cotter pin and tighten more to line up the slot with the hole.
Drive the car for about 100 miles and recheck the tightness.
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Find a good local muffler shop and ask them. Personally I like the sound of Smittys. I have the 22 inch and am thinking about going to the 30 inch to make the car quieter. I have 2" pipes and heard that the 1 1/2" bring the noise down quite a bit.
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Right now you have a big mess and are probably going to have the hydraulic cylinders rebuilt. ATF will mix with brake fluid and make a crystalized mess inside the cylinders. I would flush the system with denatured alcohol and check for leaks.
You need to buy the Overhaul manual and an owners manual before you start adding fluids. You could destroy the Hydramatic if you add the incorrect fluid. The Hydramatic takes type A fluid and you should not add to what is in the transmission. You should drain the old fluid, change the filter and add fresh type A fluid.
Take it slow and read and reread instructions until you understand every word. Trying to get it back on the road in a hurry could cost you a lot of money that you would not have had to spend if you took your time and understood what you are working with.
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The opening for the master cylinder is under the carpet. The master cylinder is under the floor and the filler opening in accessed from inside the car.
Here is a photo of the pump for the windows, seat and top. The reservoir is the large aluminum colored pot held in place by the black wire. Be careful to support the pot when pushing the wire bail to remove the pot. If there is any fluid left in the pot, it will destroy any paint that it touches. For the first time, I would cover everything under and behind it with a plastic masking sheet.
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The opening for the master cylinder is under the carpet. The master cylinder is under the floor and the filler opening in accessed from inside the car.
Here is a photo of the pump for the windows, seat and top. The reservoir is the large aluminum colored pot held in place by the black wire. Be careful to support the pot when pushing the wire bail to remove the pot. If there is any fluid left in the pot, it will destroy any paint that it touches. For the first time, I would cover everything under and behind it with a plastic masking sheet.
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The master cylinder filler opening is under the floor on the drivers side of the car. It should be about straight down from the brake pedal.
The top and window reservoir is at the bottom of the pump in the engine compartment. For photos got this topic: https://forums.aaca.org/topic/266891-1949-baby-lincoln-hydraulic-pump-installation/#comment-1435870
That oil is probably rusty brake fluid from a leak in the line feeding the passenger window. It seem that the museum did not flush and fill the system as required in the owners manual and the moisture has corroded the lines. You probably will have to rebuild the window cylinders and replace the hydraulic lines for the windows and top.
If it was my car, I would replace the lines, flush the system with denatured alcohol and replace the brake fluid with a hydraulic fluid. That would eliminate the annual flushing required with DOT3 brake fluid. Then you could see what works and have the parts that don't work rebuilt.
You are probably going to find the same situation with the brakes. There I would replace all lines and replace or rebuild all of the cylinders. The wheel cylinders are available from Rock Auto under 1951 Mercury. The master cylinder may be available elsewhere. All cylinders are the same as the 49-51 Mercury. Use DOT 3 or 4 and test or replace no further apart than 3 years. A seldom used system will accumulate water faster than a system used in daily driving.
I wish you all the luck in the world to get it back on the road where you and others can enjoy it. I suggest that you post any new topics in the Lincoln and Zephyr Forum. Other 49-51 Lincoln owners may read your post and be able to give you more insight that I can.
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Could be wrong jets or drilled out jets. Could also be float level or power valve leaking. Could also be black and sooty from excessive idling. I believe that the model 59 carburetor came with .050 jets for most of the country and .051 jets in the mountain areas.
Check for fuel entering venturi while idling at 450 rpm. If any fuel is seen, check the float adjustment. If the float is in adjustment, replace the power valve.
If there is no fuel entering the venturi while idling at 450rpm, your jets are the most likely suspect.
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I don't like to drive them more than 200 miles with that much MMO in the crankcase. It can loosen up chunks of sludge. Most of the time they clean up and quiet down in less than 50 miles. If it is not quiet by 100 miles, I would still drain and refill as you will loosen a lot of sludge that should be removed. Make sure that you drain it hot to ensure that the sludge remains in solution. Then I would just add 1 pint of MMO and drive it for 1,000 mile or until it becomes quiet. Make sure that every time you drive it, it gets up to operating temperature (about 15 minutes after the thermostats open). Do not let it idle for long periods as that will add to the sludge ( idling with a stuck lifter will let un-burned fuel elements collect causing sludge).
It seems to be idling fast in your video. Idle speed is 450RPM in drive.
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That is a beautiful and rare car. The Road Race Lincoln Register and the Lincoln Continental Owners Club have members that own Cosmopolitans.
If your car still has the original Lincoln engine, it has hydraulic valve lifters.
The first try I would take is to add a quart can of Marvel Mystery Oil to the crankcase and drive it for 50 - 100 miles at speeds varying from 20-50mph. Drain the oil, replace the filter cartridge an refill the oil pan with a good grade of 10W-30 oil. If it just a stuck lifter it should be quiet now.
If the first try does not fix your problem, you are probably going to rebuild one or more lifters and you will need the Lincoln Mercury Overhaul Manual for instructions on how to accomplish that.
I have this version and there are other formats out there: http://www.then-now-auto.com/product/1949-1951-lincoln-mercury-overhaul-manual-2-volume-set/
Other versions:
https://www.amazon.com/1949-1951-Lincoln-Mercury-Overhaul-Repair-Reprint/dp/B00435JM0C
https://www.ebay.com/itm/266075891402?hash=item3df35be6ca:g:zCQAAOSww~JjuJhg
There is a Lincoln forum here also. There is not much activity on the 1949 and later models, but I will try to help all I can.
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What is your idle problem? The L2 carb should work on the 1953 Mercury.
The most common idle problem on the teapot is caused by fuel leaking into the venturi. With the engine idling, watch for drips coming out of the bowl. This can be caused by a float level that is set too high or a power valve diaphragm that was not installed correctly or a warped top cover or a leaking fuel bowl.
I set the fuel level about 1/16" low when using fuel with ethanol.
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John, I can measure the can on the oil pan for my Mercury engine and measure the overall length of the shorter Ford starter. Will that information help you?
Call or text me if it will help and I will send you the info.
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Here is a link to the hollow core seal
https://bobdrake.com/products/38-40-sdn-38-48-cpe-40-48-conv-trunk-seal?_pos=2&_sid=2c26a6ba2&_ss=r
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If I understand your post, all 4 turn signals work. If that is correct, your bulbs are good, your wiring is probably good and you probably have a bad brake light switch. Quick check is to use a jumper wire between the two wires on the brake ligt switch mounted on the end of the master cylinder. The lights should light up.
You can get a lifetime replacement switch at Advance Auto parts. It just screws into the master cylinder and the wires just slip on.
To remove the lens, just remove the three screws holding the lens on.
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I need to correct my post. Having chemo does affect the mind.
You need 4-4.5 volt to start the engine. That would be measured at the input of the coil. The ballast resister should measure 1.5 volts across it. Measure the voltage at both coil inputs and across both ballast resistors.
The ballast resisters should be .5 ohms cold. Coil Primary coil resistance is .8 ohms. Current in the primary circuit is about 5.45 amps.
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If you can get the car into a dark area, you may be able to see any arcing in the conduits. You should also be able to hear an occasional crack from a leaky wire.
If I was faced with this problem:
I would start by shorting out the plug wires to ground to see if the cylinder is providing power. If the engine does not slow down when you short out a cylinder, check the spark at that cylinder by holding the wire close to a good engine ground like a head nut. The spark should be blue in color and about 1/2" long.
If the spark was OK, I would check the plugs to make sure that they are clean and gapped correctly.
If the spark was not OK, I would check the voltage going to the coils. It should be close to 4v with the points closed and 6v with the points open. If it is less than 3.5v I would suspect the resistor is corroded where it connects to the case of the resistor or a bad condenser if it is only one coil with the low voltage. To check the resistor, measure the voltage across the 2 terminals of the resistor. It should be 2.75v
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Please look again. The wire should not make any connections at the meter. I have the 1941 wiring diagram (it is similar to the 46-48 wiring) and it shows the wire comes from the battery side of the starter solenoid to the circuit breaker. The wire was supplied with no connector to facilitate installation, the ring terminal would not fit through the rings on the back of the ammeter. They should have shipped you a ring terminal to be crimped on the end of the wire.
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The wire just has to pass through the rings. It does not have to touch them as it is an inductive connection that senses the current flow. The wire should have a terminal on the end and it should connect to the circuit breaker.
Boose Herrel has the wiring diagram on his website.
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C&G Ford parts in CA https://cgfordparts.com/
Third Generation parts in TN https://cgfordparts.com/
Charley Schwendler in NY cas5845@yahoo.com
Skip Haney in FL https://skipscoilsandpumps.com/
All of the above have good reviews, take your choice.
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I am glad that you found and repaired your bind.
I don't understand what you are trying to do with shifting into gear. With the engine off and the transmission in gear and you try to move the car, the rear wheels should move and turn the engine. With the transmission in neutral, and you try to move the car, the engine should not turn. If you are concerned about driving through the back of the garage when you start the engine just put the rear axle up on jack stands.
The leverage to release the clutch is much better in a Lincoln than in a Model A and I believe the pressure plate puts more force on the clutch disc.
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You have a bind somewhere in the clutch linkage or the release mechanism in the transmission. The return should not be needed to return the pedal from the floor.
The springs in the pressure plate should return the pedal to where the free play starts, the return spring will then return the pedal the rest of the way.
I would remove the pin that attaches the pedal linkage to the clutch release lever so that you don't have the pressure plate springs pushing back on the linkage. Then operate the linkage with your hand to see if the bind is in the linkage or the clutch release mechanism. If there is no bind when you push the pedal through the complete travel range, the problem is in the release mechanism in the transmission.
Lincoln Zephyr temperature and oil pressure gauges
in Lincoln & Zephyr
Posted
It sounds like you have incorrect senders. The King-Seeley senders used a pulsed signal to control the current in the circuit to move the needle on the gauge.
Here is a description of the gauge operation in Fords.
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165773&showall=1