61polara
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Posts posted by 61polara
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These are wonderful road cars and behave nicely around town. Cadillac introduced their 368 (6 liter) engine this year which was the best engine ever installed in this period Cadillac. Good power (not like the dog 5.0 liter) introduced in 1982. This is the engine that was converted to the 8-6-4 engine of 1981 which killed the engine for the public. Commercial chassis continued to use this engine for several more years in the 1980 configuration. I would average 19 MPG on the '80 I owned and put 150,000 miles on it.
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13 minutes ago, GregLaR said:
I liked Doris day but I'd say that's pretty tall money for a Ford.
$300-600K sounds like a stretch.
That's total auction, not the Ford.
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Try posting in the MoPar section below. It's an active forum here.
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Joe, it's commitment like yours to our judging system that makes it work so well. Keep safe and hope to see you at Charlotte or another event this year.
Dave Bowman
Chief Judge
AACA Southeastern Spring National
Charlotte
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It will work.
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Wonderful cars. I had a '78 that I bought in '79. The 400 is the engine you want, not the 360 Much better gas mileage out of the 400. The thermoquade was a great carb, but needs a professional rebuild. The plastic throttle body would warp if you put in in carb cleaner.
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On 3/22/2020 at 3:37 PM, 57Century said:
The color code for the tangerine coler on the steel wheels and in the sweep spear?
Sorry I don't have the paint code in my files.. Look at Corvette colors in the mid to late 70's and you will find a very orange red that is a perfect match to an NOS sweep spear part.
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Chrysler promotional material but you should watch these Comparison of 1958 Cars, part 1 and part 2 on YouTube
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Ryan,
Where are you located? There may be an AACA region in your area. You'll meet many local people who can help you with this.
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I think the price has been adjusted for the interior. Good price for a great automobile
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Hi Newt
Welcome to the forum. You have found a great car for a lot of fun for your family. Keep this as a rolling restoration. You have plenty of weekend project you and your kids can work together on and then enjoy the progress the next weekend. Prioritize your projects from the most important (safely first) to the lesser items. Tackle them one weekend at a time and your will get little rewards of satisfaction each week as they are done. Your and your family can enjoy touring in an antique car and have the satisfaction of completing the last work you did on it. Mini Rewards! Resist the temptation for you and your kids jumping in and taking everything apart. Trust me, you will end up with a pile of parts and a shell of a car that will be hauled to the scrap yard in a few years when you need the room in the garage. Plan each of your projects so the car will be drivable at the end of the weekend or two to three weekends at the most. You will not loose interest this way.
Consider joining a local AACA region and National AACA. You won't regret the information that will open up to you.
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Go back to basics. You changed two things, the intake gasket and the sensor. Are you certain that your engine is not running hot and the gauge is reading correctly. Test the engine temperature with a inferred thermometer or install a mechanical gauge in place of the sensor. Once you know the actual temperature of the engine you will know it the engine is running hot or you have a bad sensor.
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Vintageant,
PM sent
Dave Bowman
HPOF Chairman
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Buick introduced the first factory installed turn signals in 1938.
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Have you gone back to the engine rebuilder and ask for a source?
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After you remove the plate held on by the four clutch screws, you will see the two holes to screw the bolts from the puller into. Loosen the center nut that holds the steering wheel to the shaft and run it up to cover the top of the treads on the shaft to protect them. You want to keep the nut on but loose to keep the wheel from hitting you in the face when it come off. I don't think the splines on this wheel are indexed, so you should mark the wheel and shaft for alignment when you put it back on.
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Contact www.key-men.com
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The dark tint on the windows would be another deduction. The glass deduction is 3 points per glass. That's a possible 24 point deduction. Also, I see black, not brushed stainless wipers. I believe DPC is your best option, but if you want to move to class judging, you will need to call the National Office and they can move it for you. Even with these point deductions that all here have suggested here, your car could receive a First Place Junior Award and go on to receive a Senior award. A very nice car and I hope to see it at future Nationals.
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Electric power windows were an option in 1957. The easiest conversion would be to find them from a donor car.
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I'm looking for a 1938 Packard gear shift knob for a Senior Packard. This is the accessory knob with the chrome disk in the center.
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You should open a new post for this as it is from a post two years old and not really related to the topic.
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8 hours ago, Gunsmoke said:
Finally I continue to look for a decent CD8 Tail/Stop light and stanchion, am told there are some around at high prices, will have to wait and see if something reasonable shows up (this one is left side mounted, originals were right side only).
I'm in the process of reproducing these lens in urethane. PM me for details.
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Jaytee
You have received a lot of very good comments on your car. To receive the HPOF Original designation it must first be evaluated by the HPOF Team to receive a HPOF designation, meaning that the car is an unrestored, original car. The next time it is shown at an AACA National, it will be evaluated for the higher level HPOF Original designation. At this time, it will receive the HPOF Original status or it may receive a Repeat HPOF certification. Older restorations present a great deal of challenge for the HPOF team to determine if the car is truly an original car or is it a 50 year old restoration. You have determined that the top is not the original factory installed top. Others have questioned the originality of the rear windows in the top. I consider a open car top replacement as a maintenance item, which requires replacement from time to time, so that would not be a deduction under "roof" on the form as long as it is replaced with the original type and style material. However, the possible non-original rear windows in the top would warrant the one point deduction under "roof". To avoid this deduction, you would need factory documentation that the rear windows are factory correct. Actually, the tear in the top would not be a HPOF evaluation deduction.
You should take a very critical look at your car to determine if it is really an unrestored original or a 50 year old restoration. Look closely at the upholstery material, tacks and trim. Was it available in 1924? Look at the paint. Is it lacquer or enamel? What did Ford use in 1924? The fact that the car has an AACA First Place award hints that it is a restored car. As part of the AACA HPOF evaluation process, the owner must sign the judging form stating that they have noted all non-factory components on the car. You need to be the highest level of judge for your car. There is tremendous documentation on Model T Fords. Through some research, you should be able to find the answer if your car is truly original or restored to original.
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I can't make the meeting if there is one, but I'll be in the trade show. Stop by and we'll meet at D&D Automobilia, the steering wheel guy just as you enter the trade show.
Dave Bowman
1969 GTO engine dies when put into reverse
in Technical
Posted · Edited by 61polara (see edit history)
Let's go back to basics here. We really need more information on exactly when this happens. I'm going to assume that you drove the car into the garage and just cranked it a day or so later. Put it into reverse and it stalls. If this is the case, your idle speed and choke settings are at to low of a speed. If it happens every time you shift into reverse, then go back over the comments above.