nooshinjohn

Sorry about that.... I am located in West Lfayette Indiana, not far from the campus of Purdue University... I can also be contacted at 765-464-2093 between 4pm and 9pm during the weekand all day saturday and sunday

Rust free California Riviera with all major mechanical work complete!!! -rebuilt 425 "nailhead" only 2600 made with this engine in '63 !!!very rare!!! reconditioned Dynaflow transmission that is so smooth you will never feel it shift -complete new front end using polygraphite performance parts!!! -new power steering system including steering gear. pump and hoses -new brakes, radiator, exhaust, and just about everything else needed to make it run, drive and stop as it should. THE BODY IS VERY STRAIGHT, RUST FREE, and 100% COMPLETE!!! needs nothing but paint and minor interior work, but makes a fun, safe and reliable driver if you choose to wait with the details. The factory air-conditioning is disabled as is the heater core. They are the only mechanical items left that will need attention to get working again. The engine and transmission have developed small leaks from lack of use. It was my intention to do a body off restoration of this car, and reseal the engine at that time. The leaks are not severe, perhaps the size of a quarter or so in a few spots under the car over the course of a week. As mentioned above, only 2600 cars were made with the 425 engine in 1963, and today there are perhaps as few as 150 or so left, and less than a dozen that are equipped like this one, so this is indeed a very rare car. All numbers match. This car also has an undocumented but extraordinary history. The original owner was an engineer with NASA in the 1960s, which is why the car was ordered in the color combination of white over red leather. This car has had a few distinguished passengers that were pioneers of the early American efforts in space and some have even walked on the moon! Of course I have no documentaion to prove this claim, but the car still proudly wears the Mission Control Houston sticker on the lower drivers windshield. This car is truly an easy restoration for somebody wanting that winter project and deserves the finest of care. If you have been looking for one of these cars as I did for a very long time, you can rest assured that this is not a basket case needing half the sheetmetal replaced before even thinking of paint, and taking into account all that has been done, my minimum bid is very realistic. Please email with all questions. It breaks my heart to even think of selling it but with my current lack of space i am forced to let the new owner take over. my loss is your gain as i have more than 10k into the car so far. Thanks for your interest. P.S. THIS CAR RUNS, DRIVES, AND HANDLES VEY WELL!!! I WOULD NOT BE AFRAID OF DRIVING THIS CAR ANYWHERE!!! I am asking 5900.00 if I post the car to ebay again, but for ROA members I will be willing to negotiate a better price. Please contact me at nooshinjohn@verizon.net if there is any interest. Thanks John

I would contact PST and ger a full polygrahpite kit for your car. the kit is very reasonably priced. I had mine done two years ago and love the improved cornering and ride. I also replaced the springs at the same time.

the grey sludge you refer to is lead.

how is the turn signal switch... also the aluminum trin on the bottom rear of the drivers and passenger seat... thanks. john

I second the notion of good luck!!! I have been exactly where you are at this very moment about 4 years ago in waking up a car from 25 years of sleep. I have just a couple suggestions that may make your effort more worthwhile. First a couple questions. are you going to fully restore the car or just build a driver? With that answered there are a couple ways to go. If you intend to keep the car as a driver, i would pull the intake and valley pan so that you can get a peek at the camshaft. My car was worn badly at the #5 intake/exhaust lobes. but all i wanted at the time was a driver, so i replaced all the lifters, after sitting as long as your car has, i would replace these even before trying to fire it up. if you plan to fully restore the car i would option for a complete rebuild at this time rather than try to run it. A 64 i had tossed a connecting rod after running for only 10 minutes or so after sitting 15 years and the block had to be tossed. hope this helps and if you need anything just ask! john

hello again to all... I am hoping somebody out there has either an nos or a good used directional switch for a '63. the one in my car has come to the end of the road for what appears to be the third time. all of the metal locking tabs that hold everything together have broken off and the internal parts have scattered themselves to the wind. the car as of now has no lights to the rear at all, and my understanding of things is that without the switch pretty much nothing works at the rear. my car is a tilt wheel car with the cornering lamp option... Thanks to all for the help John

I am selling my 63... happily, we are buying a house, but sadly need the funds that selling my car will provide. The car is a california rust free example that is mechanically 100%, with the rest of the car needing only paint and attention to detail to complete. the car is 100% complete, so all is there and very little searching on ebay for parts will be required. the engine, transmission, driveshaft,front suspension, carburetor, power steering pump,gear and hoses have all been replaced. the factory ac is not working and the heater core have been bypassed as i do not trust 44 year old heater cores to not leak. i was going to replace this when i took the interior apart. the car runs and drives as if it were new in all respects. the body is very straight and will require very little in order to be ready for paint. the car is white over red leather and is nicely optioned with power windows, and the rarest option for 63... a 425 nailhead rather than the 401. this is a numbers matching car that also has a bit of a story to tell. if if anyone is interested, i am in los angeles and can be reached at 818-995-7446...photos of the car be emailed to anyone interested by emailing me at nooshinjohn@sbcglobal.net Thanks

The entire suspension front and rear are new. The noise seems to be related to the forces of the mechanical fuel pump drawing fuel from the tank. I have placed my figers on the fuel lines at the rear and every time I get tha knocking sound I can feel a pulsation in the metal lines at the forward corner of the right rear wheel well. John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Hello again! I am at a complete loss as to how to go about eliminating the gremlin that keeps banging away inside my right rear wheel well. I still get a knocking sound from back there regardless of engine speed or whether or not the car is in motion. I know somebody must have had this issue with their cars and am curious as to what the solution is. Any help would be greatly appreciated John

here are some pics... i will take a few amore and load them tommorow... how do you load them? my email address is nooshinjohn@sbcglobal.net. i will send them to you outside the forum. just email me when you get a chance and they will be on the way. car is located in California, and has been for most of its life, the other in texas prior to 1969.

if you are still looking for a car please let me know. my 63 is for sale and is in fantastic over all condition. it is an all original white over red leather car with a matching number 425. only 2500 or so were built with this motor in 63. the car has ac,pwr windows,delux interior trim,am/fm and pwr antena that still works. the engine has been rebuilt from carb to oil pan, with the pistons taken .030 over. the dynaflow has been gone thru as well. front end is all new as is the drive shaft and exhaust. currently the car is my daily driver and has never let me down. only 2k miles since all this work has been done. the car has never been restored and has only been repainted once about 25 years ago. there is the usual rust in the bottom of the rear window, but the rest is 100% rust free. the car also has an interesting if unverified history. im looking to get around 10k for it if you are interested, and it is easier to transport than a bunch of parts. the wife may also be able to actually see what you bought as a car and appreciate it for what it is.... John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

thanks for the input... the noise I speak of gets so loud that I want to let that little elf out of my car and leave him on the side of the road. It is causing headaches, mostly because its so damn annoying. I work at a Buick dealer and all my driveability guys can say is they have never seen such a problem in a combined 85 years of experience. What was the solution for the troubles in the Riviews? Again my thanks for any input for solving this dilemma... John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

hi guys! got a wierd problem for the group... when i drive my 63 i get a knocking sound from the area of my right rear wheel well. i have been told this noise is made by the mechanical fuel pump. the noise gets faster and louder when i accelerate and slows when taking my foot from the gas. the noise is not rotational as it there even at a complete stop. any help would as always be appreciated... John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I did not find the link either, so I just called and asked. They were very helpful......

I was suprised to learn they made one, but I am so glad I got it. I dont want to sound like a sales person for them or anyone else for that matter but when something is this good you gotta let the group know about it

Hi guys!!! Just upgraded my 63 with a full poly-graphite front end kit from PST. I am happy to report that my car now handles better than even my much newer Chevy Monte Carlo! Almost all body roll has been eliminated as well as the extreme nose down posture the car would assume under braking. All in all this upgrade is perhaps the best investment made so far in getting my car back into a roadworthy condition. does anybody that reads this know if the 65 gs Rivi rear end bushings are the same as the 63 cars... PST makes the rear end kit for the 65 and if they are the same I will definately buy one

I to have a dynaflow in my 63... This transmission is the smoothest thing I have ever driven. The reason for that is it does not shift gears. The transmission converts engine power into useable torque by adjusting vanes operating in fluid to increase or decrease pressure and regulate output. basically its a jet engine that operates in transmission fluid, I guess thats why they call these transmissions a super turbine. The only thing they need is to keep trans-fluid at the required operating level and you won't feel a thing... ever! The drawback is that they lack the ability to do those long smoke burnouts my '64 Riv could do. I have also noticed they have a tendancy to leak but I will gladly top up fluid in exchange for the silky smooth drive it provides. As a side note on the dynaflow... Toyota and Honda now use a similar design, although computer controlled on their high-end cars. John

Anybody havbe experience with polygraphite front end kits in the first gen cars.... I was thinking of using them when i convert to dics thanks John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Hi guys! I have decided to convert my 63 to front discs. I believe this topic has been discussed at great length on the old ROA forum, but unfortunately I do not have the info. I know there was a kit made at some point and there are other ways of doing the conversion. Also... is there a way of converting the rears to disc as well? Any and all information will be greatly appreciated and my thanks as always John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />