Jump to content

nooshinjohn

Members
  • Content Count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by nooshinjohn

  1. Sorry about that.... I am located in West Lfayette Indiana, not far from the campus of Purdue University... I can also be contacted at 765-464-2093 between 4pm and 9pm during the weekand all day saturday and sunday
  2. Rust free California Riviera with all major mechanical work complete!!! -rebuilt 425 "nailhead" only 2600 made with this engine in '63 !!!very rare!!! reconditioned Dynaflow transmission that is so smooth you will never feel it shift -complete new front end using polygraphite performance parts!!! -new power steering system including steering gear. pump and hoses -new brakes, radiator, exhaust, and just about everything else needed to make it run, drive and stop as it should. THE BODY IS VERY STRAIGHT, RUST FREE, and 100% COMPLETE!!! needs nothing but paint and minor interior work, but mak
  3. I would contact PST and ger a full polygrahpite kit for your car. the kit is very reasonably priced. I had mine done two years ago and love the improved cornering and ride. I also replaced the springs at the same time.
  4. how is the turn signal switch... also the aluminum trin on the bottom rear of the drivers and passenger seat... thanks. john
  5. I second the notion of good luck!!! I have been exactly where you are at this very moment about 4 years ago in waking up a car from 25 years of sleep. I have just a couple suggestions that may make your effort more worthwhile. First a couple questions. are you going to fully restore the car or just build a driver? With that answered there are a couple ways to go. If you intend to keep the car as a driver, i would pull the intake and valley pan so that you can get a peek at the camshaft. My car was worn badly at the #5 intake/exhaust lobes. but all i wanted at the time was a driver, so i replac
  6. hello again to all... I am hoping somebody out there has either an nos or a good used directional switch for a '63. the one in my car has come to the end of the road for what appears to be the third time. all of the metal locking tabs that hold everything together have broken off and the internal parts have scattered themselves to the wind. the car as of now has no lights to the rear at all, and my understanding of things is that without the switch pretty much nothing works at the rear. my car is a tilt wheel car with the cornering lamp option... Thanks to all for the help John
  7. I am selling my 63... happily, we are buying a house, but sadly need the funds that selling my car will provide. The car is a california rust free example that is mechanically 100%, with the rest of the car needing only paint and attention to detail to complete. the car is 100% complete, so all is there and very little searching on ebay for parts will be required. the engine, transmission, driveshaft,front suspension, carburetor, power steering pump,gear and hoses have all been replaced. the factory ac is not working and the heater core have been bypassed as i do not trust 44 year old heater c
  8. The entire suspension front and rear are new. The noise seems to be related to the forces of the mechanical fuel pump drawing fuel from the tank. I have placed my figers on the fuel lines at the rear and every time I get tha knocking sound I can feel a pulsation in the metal lines at the forward corner of the right rear wheel well. John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  9. Hello again! I am at a complete loss as to how to go about eliminating the gremlin that keeps banging away inside my right rear wheel well. I still get a knocking sound from back there regardless of engine speed or whether or not the car is in motion. I know somebody must have had this issue with their cars and am curious as to what the solution is. Any help would be greatly appreciated John
  10. here are some pics... i will take a few amore and load them tommorow... how do you load them? my email address is nooshinjohn@sbcglobal.net. i will send them to you outside the forum. just email me when you get a chance and they will be on the way. car is located in California, and has been for most of its life, the other in texas prior to 1969.
  11. if you are still looking for a car please let me know. my 63 is for sale and is in fantastic over all condition. it is an all original white over red leather car with a matching number 425. only 2500 or so were built with this motor in 63. the car has ac,pwr windows,delux interior trim,am/fm and pwr antena that still works. the engine has been rebuilt from carb to oil pan, with the pistons taken .030 over. the dynaflow has been gone thru as well. front end is all new as is the drive shaft and exhaust. currently the car is my daily driver and has never let me down. only 2k miles since all this
  12. thanks for the input... the noise I speak of gets so loud that I want to let that little elf out of my car and leave him on the side of the road. It is causing headaches, mostly because its so damn annoying. I work at a Buick dealer and all my driveability guys can say is they have never seen such a problem in a combined 85 years of experience. What was the solution for the troubles in the Riviews? Again my thanks for any input for solving this dilemma... John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  13. hi guys! got a wierd problem for the group... when i drive my 63 i get a knocking sound from the area of my right rear wheel well. i have been told this noise is made by the mechanical fuel pump. the noise gets faster and louder when i accelerate and slows when taking my foot from the gas. the noise is not rotational as it there even at a complete stop. any help would as always be appreciated... John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />
  14. I did not find the link either, so I just called and asked. They were very helpful......
  15. I was suprised to learn they made one, but I am so glad I got it. I dont want to sound like a sales person for them or anyone else for that matter but when something is this good you gotta let the group know about it
  16. Hi guys!!! Just upgraded my 63 with a full poly-graphite front end kit from PST. I am happy to report that my car now handles better than even my much newer Chevy Monte Carlo! Almost all body roll has been eliminated as well as the extreme nose down posture the car would assume under braking. All in all this upgrade is perhaps the best investment made so far in getting my car back into a roadworthy condition. does anybody that reads this know if the 65 gs Rivi rear end bushings are the same as the 63 cars... PST makes the rear end kit for the 65 and if they are the same I will definately buy
  17. I to have a dynaflow in my 63... This transmission is the smoothest thing I have ever driven. The reason for that is it does not shift gears. The transmission converts engine power into useable torque by adjusting vanes operating in fluid to increase or decrease pressure and regulate output. basically its a jet engine that operates in transmission fluid, I guess thats why they call these transmissions a super turbine. The only thing they need is to keep trans-fluid at the required operating level and you won't feel a thing... ever! The drawback is that they lack the ability to do those long sm
  18. Anybody havbe experience with polygraphite front end kits in the first gen cars.... I was thinking of using them when i convert to dics thanks John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
  19. Hi guys! I have decided to convert my 63 to front discs. I believe this topic has been discussed at great length on the old ROA forum, but unfortunately I do not have the info. I know there was a kit made at some point and there are other ways of doing the conversion. Also... is there a way of converting the rears to disc as well? Any and all information will be greatly appreciated and my thanks as always John <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/ooo.gif" alt="" />
×
×
  • Create New...