VW4X4

Thanks for posting this. Let us know how things go, putting it back together. This is actually a really cool looking on the car just like the head lights are. I guess the design criteria was for better aerodynamics, without telling anyone. In all honestly, just like the headlights, the design is really bad. Everyone I've come across, is in very bad shape. Warn out, frozen in place or broken parts. These are mounting on rubber with another piece of chrome, witch I have not found a reason for. (you don not show this) Then another piece of rubber to the body. There is also a bracket that bolt from the bottom (you don not show this) and two screws that hold it all together. None of these seem to line up to the body well. What were they thinking? Very bad design, in my opinion.

Anyone consider making a PCV system for these engines. PCV is one of the best things going. I know it takes a way from the original condition, but there is two big advantages. IT keep the oil cleaner, longer, along with the air. All at not cost, other than not being original. ERIC

yes,,, rear axles still as seen in pictures.. Located 13 miles east of PGh. No reasonable offer refused.... ERIC

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By advancing the timing, you are moving the peak power range to higher RPM's. Depending on the car and how sensitive you are to driving habits you can actually feel the power come on, and change when you change the timing. In my flathead six, I have not been able to feel this ,mainly because these engine are not made to run very fast. Typically, when racing a car you run the engine at these higher RPM's..... I have no intention on racing any of my antique cars, so I always leave the timing to stock settings. I've found factory stock settings to be the best on most cars.... ERIC

Sorry but this is bad advice. A warm engine is about 200 deg. F. Even if your working in a garage at 90 deg. its not even half warmed up. Close the choke full. If it doesn't start with in a few cranks, open it full. Some where in between, cranking it, with the choke opened and close it will get the right mixture.

Its the same attention and status, that famous people get when they are out in public, but there is a real difference. Most people who own antique car must have a lot of knowledge and skills, to keep them running. Most of the famous sports players, and movie stars, are of no value to society.

I have an early 50' Nash Ambassador engine for sale.... IT was out in the weather and going to need a lot of work, or good for parts. Located in Pgh. PA. Not asking a lot of money..... Willing to part out... ERIC Pgh. PA

Thanks for your insight. So, If I found a Plymouth 4 dr. sedan door it would work on my Chrysler 4 dr. sedan? ERIC

Anyone have a 36 Plymouth or Dodge that would like to do some measuring? My Chrysler C7's, all of them, have the same width doors. One of these cars is what I need the doors for. I assume I'm never going to find C7 doors so, I'm on the hunt for anything that would fit at this stage of the game.

I'm not sure , but i think all front doors are all the same. They are on the Chrysler.

joe, I'm thinking that maybe the wipers would be better off connected directly to the vacuum pump, and not to the manifold at all. Another thought I had was that maybe adding a vacuum tank with a check valve would help. Just food for thought. ERIC

where are you located? Any other part from this car? ERIC

I'm looking for 1936 Plymouth front doors with working window regulators. Interior panel and/or glass does not matter. PGH. area a plus...

I'll second this. None of my cars have the guide rod, and I've never seen this, on any C7, or C8, for that matter. I'm sure it has something to do with the flat window, VS split window. Also complicating the matter is that most flat one piece windshields, on Chrysler products like the Dodge and Plymouth, had the wipers mounted above the windshield. I'm fairly sure this info. as to why and how is going to be lost technology just like the head lights... ERIC

Now this it interesting. IF it slows with engine vacuum, what is the vacuum pump doing?

That's the fastest vacuum wiper I've ever seen. You better sloe it down. Open the valves up a lot less! Otherwise something is going to breaks. Nice job..... I suspect that's becasue you just rebuilt the pump also. ERIC

This is all to true. Clean it, get everything working/running, your done.... Its only original once. ERIC

Those are exactly what was on my car.... I have to assume these are original. These must have been hammered in originally? ERIC

Joe, YOU DID IT NOW.... If i was you I would not have touch the body until late Nov. These car, unlike a lot of vehicles, have to be dismantled a lot to do a paint job properly. Therefore your going to be off the road, and as I have said before likely why a lot of these cars never make it back on the road. That said, to the bast of my knowledge, everything body panel was painted the same as the exterior: firewall, under the hood, inter fenders, etc. All the same on both of my cars. The best body shops follow PPG industry automotive product usage: -Strip to bare metal. -weld repair/replace all metal issues -Immediately prime with PPG Epoxy paint. -body work, finish work - sealer - finish paint SO, when you get the first parts sand blasted, (which is a much better way of stripping paint) the first thing is a epoxy two part primmer. The last time I purchased paint products for a car, about 6 months ago, prices were unbelievable. IF you have a local automotive paint store they are a very good source for info. But be warned, they are also going to push there products. PPG is the best you can get. Doing a paint job is actually very easy, as long as you follow some simple instructions. The hard part is getting the body work right. (the prep work). ERIC

BINGO..... that's who I got my system from.... Obviously your memory is better than mine.... thanks roger. One of the unspoken coolest things I found back in the 80's when I was building mostly antiques cars, was all the interesting places that specialized in stuff like this. Lots of it was "right under your nose" here in PGH. You would never know about these specialized businesses unless you asked around, and finally someone else told you about them. I was all over W. PA getting stuff done. Unfortunately, time and the car cruise type people killed most of these businesses . ERIC

Is Waldron exhaust in FL? Back a long time ago, I purchase a factory exhaust system from (I think) it was them. I remember the name but I just can't remember for sure from back in 1988 when I did mine. IT was a good fitting system, for the six cylinder that is routed thru a difficult frame. The head pipe is actually captive to the engine. At least on the six cylinder. You have to remove the manifolds, or lift the engine to install the head pipe. After finding this out I wasn't about to install anything less than stainless, for the head pipe. Then I found they had sent the wrong, muffler. So, the only part I could use from there system was the tail pipe. On the six cylinder cars its blatantly obvious how the exhaust routes. The head pipe routes thru the frame to the muffler. All one piece. The muffler is under the pass. side floor. Then a second single piece exits the muffler then goes back up over the axle and exits the rear. The fuel tank is off center to accommodate the rear exhaust pipe to the rear of the car. The original system had crazy, flanges that hold the pipes to the muffler together, which I did not use. I'm sure the 8 cylinder and convert will have some differences. One of the biggest problems that I have not solved is with the location of the muffler. The muffler is very close to the floor, and it causes the floor to get very hot. If this is the case in your car, now is the time to install a heat shield, of some sort. ERIC

Cool picture. One of the issues on my car(s) that I never figured out is the mounting of the windshield wiper gears and rubber. Have you ever taken these part off your car? Although, a convert, is somewhat different, in the fact that it has to vacuum motors rather than one. I sure what like to figure mine out. ERIC

I see you have a front license plate. Of everything designed into the Chrysler Airstream couple the license plates, both front and rear, always looked to me as if they were an after thoughts. I originally did not have tail lights for my couple and found tail light off of a sedan, which does not have the proper mounting for the plate. This lead me to mounting the rear license plate in the middle of the trunk. Since then I have found the proper tail lights but never moved the plate. I don't think I'm going to move the plate. I just don't like it hanging out as a parachute, and I'm sure in my tight garage it would be bumped into constantly. Fortunately, here in PA, we don't need front license plate. ERIC

This is one reason I changed over to 12v electrical system. Doing a little math you can quickly figure that just running a few options on 6 volts, like lighting and a heater fan, and you are exceeding the limits of the charging system. Considering real life situations, that nothing works at 100%, and I don't honestly know how these car ran as well as they did. OR Maybe they didn't... ? ERIC