ellagee
-
Posts
163 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by ellagee
-
-
Want to but Greenfield Village, MI Old Car Festival dash plaques.
Certain years only. 1960's and 70's and others. Please contact me with what you have.
-
Well I'm right here, so it must be you!
A friend of mine is leaving in a day or so to South Dakota with a trailer to pick up a vehicle......
-
Price updated on a 1950 Dodge B2 Pickup. Body dissasembled but complete. Minor sheet metal work needs to be done. All mechanicals completed. This would be an easy project to complete. Must sell, I need the room for another project. I also have the original "stake racks" included in the sale price.
$1800.00 obo.
The attached picture is before the truck was taken apart.
-
1 have a 1950 Dodge pickup that has been dissasambled. It is 100% complete but sheet metal is apart. Minor sheet metal work is needed, lower fenders, and floor panels. Needs tires. The drivetrain has been done i.e. new brake pads, drums turned, new brake hoses and lines. New exhaust, radiator in good condition, new hoses. The truck comes with the original wood "stake racks", very rare. Much other work has been done. I'm involved in a new project and need the room.
The picture provided is when the truck was together before work started. This would be an excellant and easy project to complete.
Speedometer shows 42,000 miles. I believe this is accurate.
$2000.00 firm
517 795-9658 for more info.
PRICE UPDATED TO $1800.00 OBO
-
I have a 1950 Dodge pickup that has been dissasembled. It is 100% complete but apart. Minor sheet metals work is needed, lower fenders and floor panels. New tires are needed. The drivetrain has been done i.e. new brake pads, cylinders, hoses and lines, new exhaust, hoses, radiator in good condition. I also have the original "stake racks". Much other work done. I'm involved in a new project and need the room.
The picture provided is when when the truck was together. This would be an excellant project truck to complete.
517 795-9658 for more info.
$2000.00 firm
PRICE UPDATED TO $1800.00 OBO
-
This may be a bigger challange than I think, but I would like to buy a 1960 Pontiac parts car with a standard transmission. I want to convert my 1960 Bonneville to 4 speed standard and need everything to make the conversion.
-
WOuld like to buy and amp gauge and also a gas (fuel) gauge for a 1937 Dictator.
-
Would like to buy an amp gauge for a 1937 Studebaker Dictator.
-
I have a 1953 2R pickup that the overdrive just quit working. Can anyone provide some troubleshooting tips. What do I need to know about the "kickdown switch" and the "lockout switch"????. Would the info be in the shop manual (which I don't have)?
-
61-63, Not quite sure how to do the PM thing.
-
I had an overheating problem with my 31 President. It kept blowing exhaust manifold gaskets. The straight 8 engine is notrious for having a tendancy to crack the exhaust manifold. I was buying an exhuast gasket every year from Olsen's Gaskets. The fellow at Olsen's recommended I check what type of muffler I was using, suggesting that I make sure it was not restricting exhaust. I changed the muffler to a NOS that I had and have not had a problem since. The engine runs cool as a cucumber.
Last year it overheated because of a stuck thermostat. I just removed it.
Don't know if this is your problem but it might be worth looking in to.
-
Could use a liitle help with the transmission on my "37 Coupe. Last year I switched my regular trans to an original (used) overdrive. The trans would not go into reverse until I pulled out the overdrive cable and drove forward just for a few feet. Of course this was not normal, but a situation I could tolerate.
Today, when I tried to back out of the garage, the car was in reverse for only a few feet. It seemed that I could feel it slipping out of reverse. Now, no matter what I do, it won't engage in reverse.
Does anyone have a clue what the problem is or a reccomendation of who is the overdrive expert to rebuild the trans.
ellagee @ charter.net
-
would prefer one with the washer option button.
-
I have a 1960 Bonnevile 389 with a 4 barrel carb that a linkage and spring fell of the right hand (passenger) side of the carburator, low to the manifold. I was able to figure out how to re-attach the linkage but don't have a clue as to how the spring is attached.
Does anyone have a picture?
-
I've dealt with a fellow in Wisconsin that has a parts car. He was able to salvage a connector block for me. It seemed to be in very good shape and works fine.
-
I've been able to find a replacement connector block.
thanks
-
-
This is the first time I've heard that rebuild kits are available. Can you provide the info to where I can obtain one?
-
Thanks Carbking for the response. The method I used to test for a bad valve on the vacuum tank was to replace the complete tank with an extra bottom from a parts vacuum tank. In essense this was just an open container connected to the carb fuel line. I had the vacuum tube from the manifold plugged. I ran the car as usual and still had the gas dump out of the carb. The ONLY place gas could come from was thru the carburetor.
I'm thinking the problem may be in needle valve in the mixing chamber is not seating properly and allowing a very rich mixture being drawn up the carb, but since the throttle valve is closed, it is being held up by vacuum. When the engine stops the accumulated gas drops back out the carb.
I may be completely wrong on this. I've since sent it back to the rebuilder and will see what his diagnosis might be.
Thanks again.
-
When the engine is off, the fuel does not leak out the carb. Only after the car has been running, just after a few minutes it begins to "bog down" apparently from too much fuel. Since the throttle valve is close no air is mixing with the excess fuel to race the engine.
-
I have a recently rebuilt Schebler Model R Carburetor on a 1919 Studebaker Light Four. The car starts fine and runs for a short period of time then appears to "flood" then stops running. As the motor quits, a significant amount (1-2oz) of gasoline runs out of the air intake of the carb. I've tried to adjust the float, but this does not seem to be the problem. I tested the Stewart Vacuum fuel tank, thinking that fuel was being drawn into the intake manifold thru the vacuum line from the vacuum fuel tank. This was not the problem either.
Anybody with any suggestions?
I've also posted this on the general discussions thread.
-
I have a recently rebuilt schebler carburetor Model R on a 1919 Studebaker Light four. The car starts fine and runs for a short period of time them appears to "flood" then stops running. As the motor quits, a significant amount (1-2oz) of gasoline runs out of the air intake of the carb. I've tried to adjust the float, but this does not seem to be the problem. I tested the Stewart vacuum fuel tank thinking that maybe fuel was being drawn into the intake manifold thru the vaccum line from the vacuum fuel tank. This was not the problem either.
Anybody with any suggestions???
-
WOuld like to buy the OLD top material from anybody that is restoring and replacing a top for a touring. I have an original 1919 Studebaker that I plan to keep original but the top is in SHREDS!!. I would like to patch it with original old top material to keep it looking old. Condition doesn't matter, in fact the more worn looking the better.
-
DO you have a picture of what it might look like? While restoring my 37 Dictator, I aquired an extra knob that doesn't match the correct Dictator knob.
Instead of tapered , it is cylindrical.
1960 Bonneville Color
in Pontiac & Oakland
Posted
Pontiac experts, can you provide some information? I purchaed a 1960 Bonneville Convertible about 6 years ago. It is painted a "bright red" not the Coronado Red listed as a 1960 color. The previous owner said it was a 1959 Cadillac color. Recently a fellow approached me at a car show and said he had one back in 1962 with the same color as mine and that it was an "Executive" order/package paint color. Any truth to this? any info would be appreciated.