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Everything posted by ellagee

  1. I need a little help in determining the corredt clasification for my 1970 Datsun 240Z. Should it be in 25 E Sport vehicle of 27 I Production Vehicle? Thanks in advance
  2. I recently came across an original J-1308 transmission shifting rod adjusting tool and had a couple extra made. Selling for $30 each plus shipping just to recover my costs. See attached picture. The original is on the left and new on the right.
  3. I'm reinstalling an overdrive transmission on a 1940 champion and need a Transmission Shift Rod Adjusting Gauge J-1308. Does anyone have one for sale or know of a source. Maybe someone knows how to properly adjust the shift rods without the gauge. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
  4. I'd like to have my freshly restored 1970 240Z ( s/n 509) judged this spring at Auburn. Could anyone advise what class this car should be in. Also are the dealer installed mag wheels acceptable or are the original wheels and wheel covers required.
  5. You right.... I did have a typo in my post. I did in fact mean to post 27e. Thanks for the correction and thanks for the info on the judged Avant. I think I'm ready to register!!
  6. I want to register my 1963 Avanti for the spring Auburn meet. This is the first time to register the Avanti for an AACA meet and I'm not sure what class it belongs in. Should it be in 25c Sports vehicles 1961-1969 or 27c Production vehicles 1962-1963. I'd like to hear from someone who has shown their Avanti at a AACA meet. Thanks
  7. I have a T84 G transmission....I'm hoping that will work
  8. I know this is a long shot but I bought a new 1971 Datsun 240Z when I was stationed in Okinawa. I shipped the car to Philadelphia when I was discharged in 1971. I just came upon my original paperwork for the car (after 46 years). The VIN was L24-027948 and I was wondering if anyone out there has this vehicle. It was the "mustard-yellow" color. I'm currently looking to buy a 240Z. ellagee@charter.net
  9. Gary, Thanks for the info. I found my switch at Steve Allens and I've decided to have my drive shaft shortened. One last issue I have is the wiring of the overdrive relay , solenoid control switch and solenoid. I have not seen a clear wiring diagram that show what I need.
  10. I'm converting my 1940 champion to an overdrive transmission and need a couple parts. 1. drive shaft. this is shorter than the current one due to the longer length of the transmission with overdrive. As indicated in the chassis parts catalog (page 314) , it is a type "E" 49 3/16 in length. Part # 196639 2. Solenoid control switch part # 195774 (page 250 of the chassis parts catalog 0731-12) ellagee@charter.net 517 795-9658
  11. See the listing and pictures at the Ford Model T section of this forum. $16,500 or best offer.
  12. For sale a recent total restoration of a 1926 Model T Roadster. The car is in perfect condition, paint, upholstery.top, engine and everything else. Converted to 12volt, alternator. No expense spared. Located in south ,central Michigan. Bargain priced at $16,500 or best offer. contact at ellagee@charter.net or 517 795-9658
  13. I'm in south central Michigan. About 150 miles from you. Very interested. Price?
  14. I would like to put an overdrive transmission into my 1940 Champion. A good used one would be fine as this is going to be just a driver. Any leads would be appreciated.
  15. Does anyone have a picture of how the jack ,handle and base is installed in the truck? Also I'm in need of a courtesy light lens for the 1940 champion. I believe other years will work.
  16. I have been unable to return to this thread for a while but in the meantime, after many unsuccessful tries, I have been able to install the windshield. I installed the rubber seal on one piece of glass and installed it. Then (with 2 people and four patient hands) installed the other half of the rubber onto the other half of the windshield and then installed that half. Unfortunately the space between the glass was too narrow for the metal divider strip. I carefully marked the drivers side glass which seemed to be to far to the center and had about 1/8 inch of glass removed. I then reinstalled that half as before and then installed the divider strip. I can only assume that the new rubber seal was a bit thicker than needed or there was some other issue that caused the space between the two pieces of glass to be to narrow. The 2 pieces of glass were new and cut to the exact size as the old glass. In any case , the windshield is installed and seems to be sealed properly. The first rain storm will be the test. Thanks for all the previous suggestions and hope my info will help some else. I don't claim that this is the proper method but it worked for me
  17. Reassembling a 1940 champion 4 door sedan after paint and have not been able to figure out how to reinstall the windshield. I have a new seal from SI. I've inserted both sides of the glass into the rubber channel, but when I try to install from the inside it all seems to wide to fit into the windshield opening, i.e. the "A-pillars" are preventing me from getting the glass and seal to the windshield opening. What am I doing wrong? Is there a "trick" or technique in getting the glass and seal flush to the inside of the windshield so that the rubber seal can be pulled over the flange. I know about the string in the channel to pull the rubber over the flange but I can't get to that point. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.
  18. more pictures and info. I bought the car a few weeks ago from a widow living a bout 30 miles away. Herr husband died a couple of years ago and the car had since been sitting. She hires a local gut to work on the car. He replace the radiator water pump gasket and heater hoses. The car still had very bad brakes and wasn't running very well. She didn't want to put any more money into it, so I bought the car to help her out. I have since corrected the brake problem (vacuum hose not connected properly) and with a minor tune-up and carb cleaner the car now stops and runs fine. The car has been repainted and reupholstered in the past. Excellent job on both. It is a very solid car, NO RUST. Everything works. Really a great buy.
  19. Price reduced to $14,500. call 517 795-9658 for more info
  20. 1963 Gran Turismo Hawk for sale. 35,000 miles. Excellent paint, upholstery and chrome/trim. Runs great. No issues. Priced for a quick sale. $14,900 OBO 517 Seven 95 Nine 6 58 e-mail : ellagee@charter.net
  21. Looking for a set (or source)of original style Buick rallye wheels, 15x7 with 5" bolt pattern to fit a 1967 Buick Riviera (would also fit a Wildcat or Electra) ellagee@charter.net
  22. Nathan, Thanks for the offer but I don't need any parts at this time. The car I'm working on is pretty much complete.
  23. I'm getting a 1940 Champion 4 door sedan stripped down ready for paint but I haven't figured out how to remove the glass from the rear doors. I have the glass removed from the roll down mechanism but it seems that the glass itself is too large to remove thru the window opening. Must be a trick! Can anyone help?
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