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68RIVGS

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Posts posted by 68RIVGS

  1. Welcome to the forum !

    The '63-'65 Riviera are the true classics, with '63 being the first model year of the Buick Riviera.

    The '65 is usually more favoured because of the 'clam shell' hidden headlights, and it is the last year of first generation cars.

    Check out the Riviera Owners Association web site for additional information on these great cars.

  2. In addition to what Jason has stated Sebastian, the '68 AC systems were a pain in the butt to repair and restore.

    You could probably install an under dash, after market AC unit cheaper and with less head aches.

    Other than the AC being removed it looks like a nice '68, but check on a hoist for rust and body damage.

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, RivNut said:

    I bought one of the reprints for my 65.  Every once in a while, as I use it, I'll come across a page that's upside down.  Just an FYI.  

     

    . . . just turn the book 180 degrees Ed and it should be readable ! :)

    • Haha 1
  4. As Jason has stated the lower ribbed aluminum rocker panel moldings were an anodized solid black finish, and common to all cars which gradually faded with age

    and road debris damage. The aluminum extrusion ribs were not cleaned off for contrast - they were a solid black.

    The optional W13 W5 lower stainless trim package was a whopping $42.10 addition to the cost of the car back in '68 !

  5. I do have a '68 Riviera Christophe, as in the signature picture, but it is a tribute car (. . .  a clone),  and not a true GS from the factory.

    The  Fisher body plate will give you some information on the car, but you should also have a copy of the'68 Buick Shop Manual.

    They are available in hard copy, or CD format, but in English only., and all the information you need to know about your Riviera will be found there !

    Next to the car, it is probably the best investment you can make !  

    • Like 2
  6. The plastic filler pieces have a molded groove at the very top edge that fits right into the metal lip of the trunk opening Ken.

    Pat's trunk picture shows exactly  how those plastic fillers should fit right into the metal trunk lip !

    The trunk seal weather strip rubber should cover the top edge of fillers though.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

  7. I understand your wanting to fill that gap, with a 'stock' filler - there was a time when little tings like that really bugged me too ! 

    The filler piece you have fabricated looks just as good, and those empty screw holes are finally filled with two shiny, new screws.

    . . . enjoy Ken ! :)

     

    FYI - From your photos Ken, I just noticed your trunk filler pieces are not seated properly in the lower lip along the trunk opening?

    They also mount above the supports in the bumper and the screws secure them in place. The blind captive nuts  mount on the 4 bumper supports.

    See Pat's trunk photo for comparison - they are properly positioned into that lower lip.

    That is why the filler pieces were made from flexible abs plastic to fill the gap between the body and the bumper.

    • Like 1
  8. Possibly fuel starvation ?

    On my '68 the aged, old rubber fuel line hose would collapse and cut off the fuel flow to the mechanical vacuum fuel pump -

    replacing the old rubber fuel line with new rubber fuel line solved the problem !

  9. If it's any consolation kreed, I installed a '69 centre filler pieces in my '68 but it interfered with the gas flip filler door, so I turfed it.

    . . . seemed like s good idea at the time, but you still end up with a gap above the fuel filler door, so that filler piece didn't really accomplish much ! 

  10. If your a fair weather driver like most of us northern classic Riviera owners you probably don't even need it Steve.

    But if it is removed you will need to add a spacer to compensate for it. The underside in your photo is tapered for the flared exhaust pipe.

    You could also use the old unit minus the baffle, spring, shaft and counter weight as a spacer too.

    Just weld the baffle shaft holes closed to prevent any exhaust leak, and install a new Felpro exhaust gasket on the flat side.

    The electric choke modification will help with cold weather starts when needed !

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