68RIVGS
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Posts posted by 68RIVGS
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The manifolds came from the factory without gaskets, but both mating surfaces were brand new and flat.
You can clean up the manifold mounting surfaces, but its probably best to use gaskets to insure a good tight seal.
Copper manifold gaskets are better than composition ones, which can deteriorate with heat and age and blow out, needing replacement.
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Those wIde whites make it look like a 'gangsta' car from the 30's !
As Pat stated, to each his or her own.
It appears to have the optional chrome breather cover, with a HD air cleaner judging by the snorkel.
There may be others, but it's hard to tell from the photos provided.
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On 9/3/2018 at 6:24 PM, VickyBlue said:
All exhaust manifold studs are free!!! None of them broke. I used a can of PB Blaster, soaked them every hr on the hour for 2 days... No heat needed. I am also 3 lbs lighter, from all that fasting...
. . . could have been the prayers too, in addition to the PB Blaster Vicky Blue ?
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It's a '69 Mike, a close kissing cousin to a '68 !
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. . . nice original '68, not too sure about those wide white walls though.
What is the date code 12A ?
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It's not always about the car, it's about the people you meet and greet Mike !
The car is just the attraction with those 4 sealed beams pointing skyward.
That always arouses some curiosity, and brings back some memories for others.
Taking the time to "show your pride" is most rewarding !
. . . congrats on your Bugle article !
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Looks like only the price going by the description, BTW. . . say an extra prayer for me, and make sure you have heat !!
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My pleasure Eddie !
Buicks.net has a very comprehensive listing of all the Big Block Buick part numbers that includes all the 400,430 and 455 exhaust manifold part numbers by year.
Just do a google search for 430 exhaust manifolds and it should come up.
All the members here are quite helpful !!
26 minutes ago, erv13 said:Randy
Thanks for the warm welcome as well as the useful information. I was told joining this group was something I needed to do, I see why.
Thank you so much.
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Hi Eddie and a warm Welcome to the ROA, and the ROA forum on the AACA website !
You are correct in that a 400 manifold will fit, as well as 430s, and some 455s.
Just remember you need a left side manifold with a flat surface to accommodate the heat riser valve.
Some of the 455 manifolds have a flat surface, but some also have tapered ends that were used for non-heat riser exhaust systems.
The bolt pattern is the same for all, and you will probably need exhaust gaskets to seal a 'used' manifold to the head.
The original manifolds were bolted directly to the heads without gaskets but the mounting surfaces were flat and clean !
A search on the internet should yield all the part number information as to interchangeability for various years.
The various internet Buick sites are probably good sources for 'used' manifolds, as well as 'evilBay'.
430 engines were also used in Wildcats and Electra 225s so there should be no shortage of used exhaust manifolds.
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. . . doesn't cost anything to dream, even if it is in technicolor !!
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. . . at least you'll know for the next time Mike !! ?
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. . . thanks for the simple schematic KongaMan - I'm sure others will appreciate it too !
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. . . got a schematic for this fix KongaMan ?
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The wire ribbon on the new switch will not feed down the steering column with the lower connector attached !
I disconnected the lower connector on the new switch wire ribbon after carefully making a diagram of all the pin locations, with appropriate wire colors.(...see shop manual ).
The pins can be removed from the connector using the tip of an Exacto blade and bending the small tang that locks them into the circular connector.
Then the new wire ribbon was pulled down through the steering column easily by securely taping it to the old wire ribbon. after the switch portion was cut off.
Once the new switch wire ribbon was fed down through the steering column, the connector pins were then reinserted into the plug in column connector at the bottom of the column.
The new switch was secured at the top of the column with the same screws removed from the old switch, and the hazard warning actuator was instaleed.
The turn signal arm was installed and the switch was tested before replacing the cancelling cam, steering wheel, and horn bar.
Clean all the horn contacts while you have it apart.
. . . trust this makes the replacement a little easier !
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All the 2nd gen Riviera had vacuum locks, '66 - '70 with miles of !/8" color coded hoses !
When did they go electric ?
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FYI: If you decide to use a double row timing chain, you may have to shim the '68 mechanical fuel pump, or slot the mounting holes slightly
so the mechanical fuel pump arm will clear the double row chain, or just install an electric fuel pump.
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. . . do yourself a favor Stavros, and replace that old vacuum manifold with one from Mike S !
They are much sturdier units - I also installed the same one in my '68 Riviera.
You will need heat to remove those manifold bolts, so the availability of a cutting torch is a 'must have' ,
to generate sufficient heat to remove exhaust manifold bolts, or you can try Tom's suggestion above?
. . . a job I have avoided for a few years now, but will attempt this Fall - both exhaust manifolds have cracked !
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I've had a Pertronics #1181 for GM 57- 74, 8 cyl. in my tool box for just over 12 years, since June 2006 and it has never failed !
. . . judging from all the positive responses here, maybe I should attempt to install it in my car ? ?
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. . . bummer ! !
They do show up on 'evilBay" from time to time, if you were looking to replace the manual with an electric antenna BBK.
They are common to all 2nd generation Riviera, and some other GM cars from that era.
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...pretty sure the fender has to be removed, as the blower motor is tucked way up under the upper rear portion of the right fender.
In any case, the wheel well must be removed, and after doing that, you can determine if the fender should be pulled.
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9 hours ago, JZRIV said:
Well I thought 67, 8, 9 and 70 was same but Randy said 68 was plain. Randy are you 100% sure? 66 was of course medium gray like 65 except for very late production when they went to black gray fleck carpert and dark gray/black cardboard. I've never seen one of these late 66s in person to know what the cardboard looked like.
Based on VIN its later production
. . . been soooooooooooooo long since I've even looked at mine Jason, I might well be wrong !
I'll have to dig up my originals to double check and confirm later.
You would assume they are all the same for 2nd gen cars, judging from your evilBay pic and Pat's photo !
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15 hours ago, NC68Riviera said:
I have the the Repops boards so no I won't be recovering them.
I wish there was a way to not destroy the board when getting the jack out, other than removing the retaining screw and removing the board and jack as one unit.
Recovered trunk cardboards would give a more finished look to the overall trunk area Mike - just my opinion !
You could reinforce the jack shaft cut out with some plastic edging to reduce wear 'n tear on the board ?
Printed cardboard trunk liners must be a '66, and maybe a '67 only luxury Mr. Paul ?
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Nice write up Mike, looks very good - I sorta like the "buzz" you get from the contact cement !!
haha
Much better than that sloppy kit shown in your before photo !
Been on my list of "round-to-it's" for some time now, but I'm a great procrastinator.
Purchased lots of felt from CARS INC way back in the day.
Glen even threw in a little extra to cover the cardboard liners.
'68 -'69 liners were just a plain grey surface cardboard Jason, and Mr. Paul - no matching printed fibres ?
Where are your cardboard liners Mike, gonna cover them in the felt for a svelte look too ?
Sure makes a big difference in the appearance !
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. . . mine must be skinnier than yours Mike - it worked 4 me !
The bolt on the base mounting bracket is easily reached inside the right front wheel well ?
The wiring harness connector plug is easily accessible, as is the radio antenna cable screw on connector in the engine compartment?
The mast tube can be released from the chrome fender escutcheon by loosening the bolt that secures it with a long extension on a 1/4" ratchet ?
No need to remove the chrome escutcheon, unless you are replacing it ?
If you remove the plastic baffle at the rear of the right fender opening, it will give you a little more manoeuvering room,
and you can see the top of the mast tube where it attaches to the chrome fender escutcheon !
1968 Riviera for sale in Des Moines - one owner.
in Buick Riviera
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. . . from the picture, on my computer, the black cover looked like an '"aged" chrome finish - just the reflection I guess Ken.
Pat is quite correct on the air cleaner, and valve cover stickers. The originals all were blind embossed, and the optional chrome breather cover never had any stickers on it.
Most of the after market repro stickers you see today lack the blind embossing that the original air cleaner, and valve cover stickers had.
The blind embossing process was expensive and much more difficult to replicate.