DaveAspi

SUCCESS! Was a piece of cake. Purchased packing on Amazon: Palmetto 5000 Series Flexible Graphite Compression Packing Seal, Shiny Gray, 1/4" Square, 10' Length I used the old packing template I found in the trunk to measure the needed lengths, cut it, packed it in, cranked the nuts down. Powered it up, adjusted nuts a few turns and VOILA! No leaks. Now- to fix that leaky carb....

Excellent info! I’ll put it to use next weekend.

Thanks, attached is what the “original” looks like as new....found in the trunk with all of the tools.

Excellent information and reference material. I haven’t taken the packing nuts off yet, that is my chore of the day today. When I had the water pump restored years back, we did custom mill a new stainless steel shaft. Thanks for the help. Stay tuned!

Looking for recommendations on what to use for my 1923 4 cylinder as water pump packing. Believe it or not, I DO have some ORIGINAL packing rope, asbestos and all- but have decided best to leave that intact as a “show curiosity” piece. Getting last years HVA FIVA winner ready for Car Show season. She fired up pretty easily today, now just getting thevodds and ends ready as well. Thanks, Dave

Excellent, I will keep the forum posted. Cross your fingers.

I DO have Connecticut title signed over. Taking all of my paperwork back to AAA Tuesday morning. As for the seller not knowing what he was selling, the VIN is for. 4 cylinder, and the Jeepster has a 6. He SHOULD have known- and I should have had my info prior to buying. No buyers remorse, VERY cool car, but could have negotiated a better deal with ALL the info.

Agreed, but I have already opened that Pandora’s Box. ☹️

Visited AAA yesterday and have temp registration pending more investigation. The more info I am armed with the easier it may be to title.

Jack, that would me be GREAT if you can do some recon on what yours has. Best guesses and comments are that this engine is NOT the one my Jeepster was born with.

Must be a 1950 or so transplanted engine then. The 130761 puts in that year s range if engines? Thank you. I visited AAA and received a temporary registration, they want more “documentation” regarding the one VIN plate. Hind sight? Great car, awsome running 6 cylinder, BUT, really should have done my homework prior to purchase. Seller stated “original” 6 cylinder engine. Mire research to follow, or to be added by the forum. Dave

See my reply in the thread. Yes, I thought that the 4-63 on my serial plate meant 4 cylinder. I too noticed that the plate screws seems a bit hinkey. Can you tell from the previous pictures what year this 6 cylinder is from? Best I can tell from the stamp on the side- 61 130751 Top stamp CAST- 7 7 49 8.4? As for the piece of metal on the hump supposedly with the serial number- seems it’s not brass at all. With more elbow grease, I’m getting down to bare metal. Still no number in sight. You mentioned On the floor riser “back” of driver seat? Dang, that will require taking the rubber mat out- hate to touch it, as the front did not come out in 1 piece, ? ill keep the forum posted. Thanks for the reply.

The engine number is part of the verification issue as well. Trying to get info verifying that this engine came with this Jeepster. I am not finding info of Jeepster number and production runs to match the numbers and/or VIN number. This Jeepster has the 6 cylinder in it. But, isn’t “4-63” supposed to be a 4 cylinder?

Excellent advice! I’ll start with the main DMV and work backwards from there. Yes- finding that tracing a Jeepster engine can ALSO be quite confusing. The WO JEEP forum couldn’t tell me much. There ARE numbers on the engine, so they MUST mean something, right? Here is a picture of a spot where I was told that a serial number MIGHT be. Copper plate on the hump between the front seats. Was able to get down to the copper plate, but can’t see any numbers.. How about you?

Thanks for the reply- I posted the question to the WO/Jeep forum as well. Not having much of a response over the past week. My hopes are that California will accept the 1 VIN location if I print up as many single VIN references that I can find. Registration is from Connecticut and sold without a title (Connecticut doesn’t issue title in pre 1981 cars). I read reference to a secondary serial stamp on the hump between the front seats, but I see nothing on this plate. Pealing away a few layers of old paint. I’ll post a picture shortly.

Also posted this in the general discussions forum: Added a 1949 Jeepster to my collection, and trying to get her titled and registered in California. DMV is seeking “2” areas of VIN verification on the car. I only know of 1- under the dash above the glovebox. Any members familiar with Jeeps/Jeepsters, that can point to another VIN location? Or, a site stating that these only came with one area for identification? Also, any info on engine ID’s and identifying when the JEEPSTER engine was born- or original to the vehicle? See attached pictures. Thanks in advance for any assistance.. Dave

Added a 1949 Jeepster to my collection, and trying to get her titled and registered in California. DMV is seeking “2” areas of VIN verification on the car. I only know of 1- under the dash above the glovebox. Any members familiar with Jeeps/Jeepsters, that can point to another VIN location? Or, a site stating that these only came with one area for identification? Also, any info on engine ID’s and identifying when the JEEPSTER engine was born- or original to the vehicle? See attached pictures. Thanks in advance for any assistance.. I’ll also post this under TECHNICAL. Dave

Big honor for my 23-4-39 this weekend. Winner of the HVA International Preservation Award. The major Concours show are now EMBRACING original unrestored cars. Pretty cool! Check the link: https://www.lajollaconcours.com/2018-winners 8546CE00-405C-4AA5-A2F7-9CD006EF78C3.mov

Excellent, I will check it out, thanks.

It's been quite awhile since I have posted anything regarding my 23-4-39. I found a good article about my Buick from this years Goodguys Del Mar Nationals- check this link: http://www.streetmusclemag.com/features/car-features/dave-aspinalls-untouched-all-original-1923-buick-model-39/ I want the opinion from members of this forum on my next step. I have been preserving this gem to best of my abilities, but age and time ( the car not me ) are creeping in on my preservation. i live by the beach, so that doesn't help either. I do a little wipe down and maybe a light polish whenever I show her- each time taking a bit more of the original paint with it. Well, the paint is getting VERY sparse in spots now, and if I continue as practiced it may ALL be gone soon. Patina is good, but now what? If you have read the article, you will note that my Buick sits in ALL original 1923 condition. My question to you all is- what do I do to protect from any more loss of original paint? i have done my best to preserve the brass, copper and nickle, would it be OK to preserve what's left of the original paint with a light clear coat spray? This would not "enhance" it or "restore" it. But, by trying to preserve what is left of the paint effect it's ordinality by clear coating to stop anymore paint loss? What should be done? Again, not looking to restore, just preserve what is left of my paint. Thanks, Dave

Thanks everyone, I will check the plug type next time i'm at the garage. I keep the rockers lubed while doing my demonstration, the crowd really seems to enjoy the simplicity of it all while it's running. Leif, thanks for posting the pictures! It looks exactly the same as it did when I found it 10 years ago, except it runs GREAT now- just having the hiccup with the carbon build up it seems. I have the last Coastal 101 Cruise night in Encinitas (show and shine) of the season tomorrow night, and will post some pictures.

Hey Larry's, thanks for the quick responses. Yes, I am running on the original Vacuum canister. check my plugs, and they are getting quite a good carbon build up on them, I will give them a good cleaning. Yes, after a few mikes, everything seems to have "blown" out and it starts to rum smooth again. As for the low idle for long times- well, it's what the people want- who am I to deny that? :-) Simple Freshman auto shop stuff then right? Clean the plugs and points.Thought it might be the prolonged idling with unleaded gas.

Been awhile, but the 23 has been in car show action all summer, getting awards and bringing smiles to everyone. Here's my problem, the Buick is a real crowd pleaser when parked, with the hood open and the valve cover off- people just LOVE seeing the old 4 cylinder engine in action, almost mesmerizing to some. It can sit idling for well over an hour without getting over-heated. With that being said, do you think I am causing any unforeseen damage, running the engine at low idle for an extended amount of time? Should I be putting a lead additive in the gas? She is running rough now- harder to start than usual, rough idle for quite some time after starting, usually need quite a few foot to floor pedal pumps before I can get a good idle. Wasn't an issue when I would cruise at 30-40 MPH for an hour or so on the weekends, but now, with the extended low RPM idle it is, should I be doing anything different?

Just got off the phone with Tired Iron Works, he had good laugh when I said Chris That Guy-Z sent me. Made an appointment for next Friday! Sound like good guys there. I really appreciate your help, Dave

Chris! Fantastic, and almost local too. I will give them a call-