D Yaros
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Posts posted by D Yaros
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Joe,
Well, we all may be missing something here? If you are able to jack the car up to put it on stands, why may you not put the lifting arm pads in the positions you use to jack up the car and put it on stands?
Also, it seems to me an ol'timer at a GM dealer service dept. should be able to answer your question. These cars had to have been raised on lifts, regualarly.
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The organization is the American Lift Institite.
The web site is www.autolift.org
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2 Points:
1) Place the lift pads where the scissors jack would go when changing a tire.
2) I forget the official name of the organization (something like the American Lift Manufacturers Socieity, or some such), but it publishes a lifting guide, setting out in word and pictures the exact lifting points for all vehicles. I purchased one on acquiring my 2-post lift.
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Google Harmon's Chevrolet
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Here is what I was able to find regarding this meter:
Hawk Tune-Up analyzer woes. - martin66
Hi,
I have got a Hawk Tune-Up Analyzer at a boot sale but I don't know how to use it! There are 4 wires coming out, a red and a black with crocodile clips and a red and a black which have bare wires at the end. Can anyone tell me how to connect it?
Thanks,
Martin.
slt
Hawk Tune-Up analyzer woes. - OldSchool54
Martin66, I was looking for instructions on how to connect my Hawk 610 Tune-Up and Diagnostic mini-analyzer, because the page for the basic hook up is missing from my instruction book, the basic hookup is black croc clip to battery ground, the red croc clip to the negative of the coil this is for dwell readings. The other two red and black on yours is missing a shunt bar that will test charging current for alternator or generator. The bar is, was in your case a 3 inch piece of brass with "U" connectors on each end. This analyzer is for cars with points and condenser. Mine still works good
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I use tetraethyl lead additive. Buy it by the case. Has a 2 yr. shelf life after being opened. Takes .6 oz./gal. Bought it online from Untited Lube Technologies, I believe? A link for the site is on my Saved 62 web page; listed in my forum signature (below).
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Simply coat the 2 parts with STP. You may be amazed at how easily they then go together!
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As some of you may know, I have created <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #666666">The Gray Lady</span></span></span> web site, focusing on our recently acquired 1955 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. One purpose of this site is to make it a valuable resource to other 55 CDV owners.
To that end, I have added a <span style="font-style: italic">1955 Cadillac Repair Library</span> to the site. This library houses diagnostic and repair info, service bulletins and other information I have collected. That information, in .pdf format, is being made available to all for reading/download. Additionally, links to other sites I have found to be of particular value are listed.
In order to expand both the library and its usefulness, I am soliciting contributions from any who might care to contribute to the library collection. In doing so, your willingness to share will help others in maintaining/preserving these fine rides.
Library contributions may be sent, as an email attachment, to me at OldsD88@gmail.com. All library contributions will be properly credited as to source. Even if you have no contributions, you may still help simply by spreading the word about <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #666666">The Gray Lady</span></span></span> web site and the <span style="font-style: italic">1955 Cadillac Repair Library</span> collection. <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #666666">The Gray Lady</span></span></span> web site may be found on the web at http://GrayLady.WebNG.com. The <span style="font-style: italic">1955 Cadillac Repair Library</span> url is http://GrayLady.WebNG.com/library.htm.
Thank you for being willing to help in this effort.
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Pic #2 looks as though it came from a circa 1953 Oldsmobile.
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Ron,
Thank you for the kind comments. Info is only good if you share it, right? That is what I am trying to do. I knew next to nothing about Cadillacs until I acquired mine a few short months ago. And, needless to say I am still learning!
Slighty OT - I now own a Kent-Moore Model 10 Guide Autronic-Eye tester. I am looking forward to playing with, and reporting on, it on the <span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="color: #666666">The Gray Lady</span></span></span> web site.
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Does this car have A/C? If so, I suspect that is what it is.
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After culling multiple sources of information, including the 1955 Cadillac Data Book, I have compiled a list of standard and optional equipment for the 1955 Cadillac, and the Coupe Deville. The list incorporates the prices provided by Ron Klewer in an earlier msg. here.
The info is now on <span style="color: #666666"><span style="font-style: italic"><span style="font-weight: bold">The Gray Lady</span> </span></span> web site [http://GrayLady.WebNG.com]; more specifically, here:
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Ron,
Healthy skepticism is a good thing!
I do not know the source of your options/accessories info, but I do know it is not complete. The most glaring omission is that of fog lamps. Nor do I see either a spotlight or sabre-spoke wheels listed.
Even so, it is interesting and helpful.
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Ron,
Thanks for the info. I find it to be more than interesting, particularly the pricing.
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Anyone familiar with, ever been on, going on, the Old US 27 Tour, in MI? It is an annual event. This year it is from 18 Aug through 22 Aug. The participants drive from southern to northern MI, (Coldwater to Cheboygan) with a a police escort. There are car shows along the way. I believe a total of 10 cities are visited, and there are about 5 car shows.
Here is the web site for the tour - Old US 27 Tour
I ask, as we plan on participating this year with our Oldsmobile.
Dave Yaros -
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I will put my 2 cents in, since it is not my car or money(!), and say stay with the original. Anything that deviates from it lessens both the dollar and historical value.
And, as has already been pointed out, finding the clips and having the originals refinished has to be cheaper than a new set of after-market wire wheels.
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If I were going to seriously continue consider purchasing this car, I would track down the current owner myself. If you had a plate, VIN, anything with which to start.
There is no way to explain the unexplainable. The guy has a screw or two loose!
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Gary,
I would not be walking away from this guy/deal, I would be <span style="font-style: italic">running!</span>
The earlier actions of this guy failed the "smell test," IMHO. Now I am certain.
He wants to make himself a middle-man to this transaction and skim money off the top. Not reputable!
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Ron,
I would be interested in seeing the options info too, if you would care to share it here.
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I have seen (back in the day) the apparatus you are describing. It was an aftermaket device, called a Top Oiler. Its purpose was to address lifter noise/wear problems. Some swore By them, others swort AT them!
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Dave,
As much as I hate to say it, I am beginning to suspect the generator. This is because my volt meter is producing a reading of less then 12V, not 14.
You ask what I am using to measure the generator output. It is a V-O-A meter. I placed the leads across the F and A terminals on the generator. I got an actual reading of 7, which I multiplied x 3; as I was on a 10 Amp scale and the generator has a 30 amp capacity. Perhaps it was in fact only 7 amps?
I did in fact use 10 gauge wire, with solid connections.
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Here is my situation:
I am attempting to install an SW -30 -0- 30+ ammeter in the engine bay of my 63 Monza.
Yes,I have heard all the cons to such a project, and do in fact also have a volt meter instatlled in the engine bay.
1) I have placed the ammeter in series between the batt and the voltage regulator. The needle simply does not move.
2) I have placed the ammeter in series in the starter solenoid circuit. The needle does not move.
3) In both locations I have tried a second ammeter, thinking one may be defective. The needle simply does not move.
When I say "the needle simply does not move," that applies both when I turn on the lights with the engine off, and when I run the engine.
The ammeter does have continuity between the two posts.
I am getting a reading of 21 amps off the the F(ield) and A(rmature) terminals of the generator. I get the same reading off the F(ield) and G(enerator) terminals of the voltage regulator. The volt meter shows 11.?V when the engine is running.
The car starts and runs fine whether the ammeter is wired in, or taken out of, the circuit.
So what I am I missing here? Why does the gauge not give any reading? Whatever the problem is, it is beyond my powers of deduction. I would appreciate any insights. Thanks!
I might also ask, how is the fuse block underneath the dash attached? In looking at it, I noted a lot of corrosion which could stand to be cleaned, but I can't figure out how to get the fuse block out to work on it.
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IMHO, you HAVE to have some flags, banners. As I have both a Cadillac and an Olds, I have a flag for each.
I also have a good sized AC Delco Trained Tech sign and a Cadillac Certified Craftsman sign.
I do also display the correct license plates from my state of birth for both the year I was born and the years of my rides.
What I think is a neat item is an actual working traffic light. They are available on ebay from time-to-time, and a relatively inexpensive circuit board, which is easy to install, makes it cycle through green-yellow-red.
While it is not decorative, or responsive to your query, I do have one last pic of my car barn to post. I think it is neat, but then, I may be a bit sick!
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Yes, it could very well be, and most often is, the back of the firewall. However, it does not always have to be. It could be a separate panel in some construction.
Two post lift for GM "X" body cars
in Garages, Trailers, and Towing
Posted
I have no idea what brand lift you have. That said, I know that Mohawk makes arm adapters/attachments the lift the vehicle by its wheels. I am sure they are expensive, but it is an option if such adapters/attachements are available for your lift.