D Yaros
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Posts posted by D Yaros
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Would anyone have a pic of the routing of the left exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold on a 1962 394 c.i. engine they could send/post?
I presume it connects where the crossover pipe on a single exhaust system connects to the left manifold.
Appreciate it -
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A great looking Olds! In addition to Old Cars Weekly, I have found the prices listed by Edmunds.com to be fairly realistic.
If you will sell, I would start with an ad in national Olds club magazines:
Journey With Olds (OCA) and Runabouts to Rockets (NAOC). There, you will find potential buyers who appreciate what is being offered, and will not chop it up!
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The Feb. issue of Car Collector Chronicles, now available on line, lists the selling price of every Olds that crossed the block at B-J. You can view those results here -
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Quite a find, I'd have to say, and quite an interesting gent!
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No problem leaving them attached and will not harm the ECM. What will happen if you disconnect is you will have to reset all your radio stations after the install.
Don
Someone feel free to jump in here and correct me if I am wrong, but if the battery is truly (totally) dead, will not the radio stations have to be reset anyway?
My DelTran Battery Tender comes with a cable to permanently attach to the positive post of the battery, precisely so one may charge the battery without ever having to touch the factory cables.
One does not remove the battery cables when jumping a car, so why would it be necessary to do so when charging a battery?
Now, the direct short, that is another situation . ...
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I did in fact watch the show, and found it to be both interesting and entertaining. Who doesn't love the proverbial "barn find?"
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Well, I can tell you this: You may simply pry the arm off with a screwdriver. I have done so on occasion. However, the results are you are most certainly going to leave evidence of having done so; i.e., damage.
I would invest in the proper tool to avoid having to do paint touchup. Have you checked at the local auto stores. I would think K-D tools or other suppliers make a univervsal wiper arm removal tool that may be acquired at a reasonable cost?
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See my reply in the other thread.
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There is a special tool for this task. It is sort of like a large hemostat. I see them from time-to-time on eBay. They were made by Kent-Moore.
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Once properly oriented, I am able to hazard a guess this belongs to a 51-55 era Oldsmobile.
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I wonder if the R. E. Olds Transportation Museum in Lansing, MI has the info you seek, or could tell you where it could be obtained?
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EIther I am losing my mind, or I have seen this question before (and answered it)? Most probably, at my age, it is senility setting in.
The 3 buttons/foot switches are:
Radio (Wonderbar-Scan/Seek)
Dimmer
Autronic Eye (Override)
On my 55 Cadillac the override switch is right next, and I do mean right next, to the dimmer switch. It is about half the diameter of the dimmer switch. It is so close to the dimmer switch that I question how anyone, let alone a person with a size 11 shoe, can hit one, without activating the other.
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I'll add my 2 cents worth. I am into this because my generation, baby boomers, grew up with cars as a big part of their lives. We could not wait to get a driver's license. Then, we could not wait to get our very own car.
Of course, we had little-to-no money, so having a car meant learning about it and keeping it running. Being a shade tree mechanic was a necessity. That necessity turned out to be an enjoyable activity. I try to do all I can in terms of vehicle maintenance myself; on both the vintage and current vehicles I own.
I am sure a very big part of it is the admiration for the old iron, as well as the youthful memories they engender. Natch, you have to be an ol' codger to have youthful memories! Right?
One of the most enjoyable aspects, I find, is the pleasure not merely of owning, but of sharing; whether it be in displaying, swapping stories, helping others or whatever. It is a great hobby, so long as you can afford it!
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I have found the most realistic figures to be available on the EDMUNDS.COM site.
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Detergent oil had been on the market since 1947 and multi weight since 1951. So unless we are talking about a prewar car, it has probably had nothing but 10W30 all its life.
I realize this is not your situation. I throw it in because of all the queries we get from newbies whose friends told them to use good ol' non detergent 50 weight in their 1950s or 60s car because that's what all those old jalopies used.
As a youth I had a 1960 Olds S88. This was from 1963 through 1968, or so. I ran nothing but straight 20W detergent in it.
Today, I have a 1962 Olds D88. It has the same engine 394 c.i. engine as the 1960. I run straight 20W detergent in it too. The only difference between then and now is straight 20W is mighty difficult to find these days!
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Too many, and more than will fit in my garage!
1955 Cadillac Coupe de Ville
1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88, convertible
1992 Cadillac Allante
1997 Nissan KingCab XE
2007 Toyota Avalon
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That is exactly what it is, for the Autronic Eye. It is about half the size of the dimmer switch, and so close to it that I do not know how one would ever depress one without also depressing the other.
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Well, if you believe what you see (saw) on television, Broderick Crawford drove a mid-50's Olds cop car on "Highway Patrol. Then, the squad of the 65th Precinct (NYC) - "Naked City" all drove Pontiacs in the early 60's.
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I own a couple newer vehicles that are very seldom driven (probably a half dozen times a year) simply because they are limited editions and we get snow over six months a year. Currently I noticed that the chassis and some of the engine components on my truck are experiencing excessive rust (note it’s just the chassis not the body that’s rusting). I contribute this to the relatively damp and not well sealed garage that I store it in. I was wondering if any classic car owners that store their vehicles for long periods have any experience with a corrosion protection system (cathodic, anodic or otherwise) that actually works and doesn’t cost a fortune.
I own, I use it and I endorse it wholeheartedly. The "it" is the CounterAct Rust Inhibitor system. It is not cheap, but I can tell you it does in fact work. I have had one on a 1997 Nissan KingCab XE pickup for about a decade. No rust whatsoever, and the truck is parked outside during our Wisconsin winters!
It is an electronic device that consists of a central unit (black box) and two pads connected to the box. One pad goes on the front fender/wheel well/frame, and the other in a similar location, only on the opposite side, on the rear.
While it may sound like a lot of "smoke and mirrors," I am here to tell this device is for real.
You owe to yourself to check it out. Here is the link -
CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection System - Corrosion Control
You may also check out what I have to say about the device on pg. 1 of the June, 2009 issue of Car Collector Chronicles, accessible from the link set out in my signature.
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What a sleeper, with issues. Many of these have driven owners nuts but they were custom made in Italy, correct?
I did not expect Reattas and Allantes to stay high relative to initial value but am surprised to see where you can buy one for 10 cents on the dollar.
Can they be restored? I think so.
The Allante is indeed a sleeper right now. They may be best described as "cult cars." One is either a fanatic over them, even with their faults, or views them with nothing but scorn.
Yes the assembly story is well known. The chassis was shipped form MI to Italy. In Italy the body was put on. They were then shipped back to MI for installation of the drive train.
Anything, and I do repeat anything, may be restored. It is only a matter of how much are you willing to pay, isn't it?
What will give the Allante real value in the very distant future is that current owners believe, and live the belief, that the car is made to be driven. I can say they are a real blast to drive!
The more they are driven, the more they will deteriorate, and go from the road to the salvage yard. With a base of only 21,430 to start, the loss of every one, means those remaining will acquire more worth. A simple application of the laws of supply and demand.
I think Reatta, and maybe Rivieras, fall into the "cult" classification too.
Having been a former owner of one, I can testify that the Corvair owners are avid practitioners of the cult art. They also believe in driving their cars. It is only now that the general public is beginning to discover, and appreciate what was something of a bit of a joke in the 60's.
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Each and every time I drive my 62 Olds Dynamic 88 I hear it telling me, "I was made to be driven!" It is such a joy to take out on the highway and put the pedal to the metal.
These cars are meant to be driven, seen and enjoyed; by both the owners and the lookers!
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The cardinal rule is buy the best car you are able to afford. Restoration costs always exceed expectations, and the purchase price of one that is restored.
Buy what you want, interests you, without thought of selling it later. If you sell it later, and maybe make a buck, that is great, but do not approach the purchase with that mindset.
I have/had the following, all bought without the the intent of a subsequent sale:
1955 Cadilac Coupe de Ville
1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 convertible
1963 Corvair Monza convertible
1985 Buick Riviera convertible
1992 Cadillac Allante convertible
Today, the Corvair and Riviera are owned by someone else. The Riviera was a small convertible for my wife (she does not like driving the huge "lead sleds." It was replaced by the Corvair, which was subsequently replaced by the Allante.
I made money on the sale of the Riviera, and took a huge loss on the Corvair.
I do not see the Allante as a collectible right now, even though only 24,000 were made in the 1987-1993 production run. That is because the one I have, which is in great shape with only 54,000 miles, was acquired in 2009 for $8K. It sold originally for $56,995!
Bottom line buy what you will enjoy, and use.
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Hey Matt, Dave with the 1962 Olds writes the Collector Car Chronicles he listed, a nice monthly blog/newsletter you should read, I have enjoyed his stuff.
To Dave, anything ever happen on your convertible top?
Thanks for the kind words re my newsletter, Car Collector Chronicles. It is appreciated.
As for the "convertible top, to which are you referring; the Allante hard top or the new top on my 62 Olds?
If the latter, it was timely installed, and looks absolutely fabulous. Going with the gray cloth was a smart move.
If the Allante hardtop, I still have it, and have 2 buyers who want it.
62 Olds Overheating
in Oldsmobile - Technical
Posted
Scott,
As soon as I started reading this, I said to myslelf, "This sure sounds familiar?"
Glad to see you here! A good idea to broaden your reach, in terms of help.
If you browse this area of the board you shall see that I posted a query for you about the dual exhaust routing.
Welcome and hope you get some good answers!