Pat_n_Pat's Content - Page 6 - Antique Automobile Club of America

Is it safe?

Pat_n_Pat replied to a topic in Buick - Pre War

Neglected to mention. The Packard is Positive Ground. Your Buick is probably Negative Ground, so cables would be reversed.

Is it safe?

Pat_n_Pat replied to a topic in Buick - Pre War

You can IF you can isolate the starter from all other electrical. I am not familiar with your '26. We did exactly what you propose with our 1941 Packard during the 2009 Hemming's Challenge. Our Packard uses a Bendix starter drive. With the jumper pack turned off, we connected the positive cable to the engine block, and the negative directly to the starter terminal (that is the output terminal from the solenoid). We then turned the battery pack on, and the starter spun. We did have a 6 volt battery which was near dead, but could power the ignition system. A 6 volt starter can easily handle 12 volts if used sparingly. Skinned Knuckles did a study which showed that no damage would result from 12 volts through a 6 volt starter. Just like any starter, however, you don't want to crank ad infinitum! The most important point is that you can isolate the 6 volt ignition, generator, and guages from the starter. Actually, you can run 12 volts through the ignition for a short period. Most early 12 volt cars used 6 volt coils and a ballast resistor. The ballast resistor would allow 12 volts for a hotter spark for starting, then drop the voltage to 6 volts. Don't do it if you cannot isolate your gauges, lights, and generator from the starter. Pat

Motor oil

Pat_n_Pat replied to copperjohn's topic in Buick - Pre War

Here is another site that adds to the technical aspects. Although it focuses on Corvairs, it applies to all internal combustion engines: http://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf I have had a few e-mail "conversations" with this guy. Quite helpful! Pat

Migrating Gear Lube

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in Buick - Pre War

We have a modified ’31 Buick 8-60 Racer that we acquired about 6 months ago. Gear Lube keeps moving from the differential to the transmission. I just drained about 20 oz. off the trans. And will have to add about the same to the rear end. We have probably only put about 300 miles on it since we acquired it, but we are not sure just how much lube might have moved prior to that. Documentation provided with the car indicates that this was an ongoing problem. My Specifications and Adjustments Manual does not show any seals in the enclosed driveline. It does appear that the engine may have been lowered in the frame, which would have decreased the angle of the driveshaft. Has anyone else had this problem? I am thinking of inserting a seal along the driveshaft to stop the flow. I do have to tear down the diff to change the gearing. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Pat

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Pre War

The real problem is the cost of shipping overseas. He really just wanted the engine, but I really don't want to part it out. I could not tell him exactly what had been done, so I think he was not interested even with Mark Shaw's comments. We also have some '32 Fenders up for sale; a guy in Holland really wants them, but the cost and time to crate and shipping again an issue. All things in good time! Pat

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Pre War

Ask and ye shall receive! Here are a couple of pics. Mark Shaw knows the car. I purchased it from the estate of Malcolm Bauer who spent over 10 years building it. I was actually in the process of building a similar car to compete in the Great Race and the Hemming's Challenge (it is now listed in the for sale forum). Could not resist buying a complete car! Pat I will post more to my member page if I can figure out how to do it!

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Pre War

Thanks folks! Just as I thought! Oh well! I think there is enough room with the water pump off to pull the generator straight back. I need the distributor off anyway as I want to play with the advance curve on this monster! Thanks, Pat

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in Buick - Pre War

Hi All:  I am in the process of removing the generator to deal with the charging problems on our '31 Series 60. I have pulled the distributor. Do I need to remove the water pump to remove the generator? It looks like I have to! (which means drain the radiator, etc.etc.....not a problem, just being lazy because I have recently replaced coolant and hoses.). Pat:rolleyes:

1931, 1932 Buick Series 50 Fenders

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

Sold the 1931 Fenders. Pat

FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

Mark: Thanks for your comments. Pat

FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

Hi Simon: Mark Shaw is correct about this chassis. I purchased it a little over a years ago. I purchased it from a guy who bought it from Bernie's estate (he planned to build a Buick 8 based street rod). I do know that it runs well. I did a lot of checking before I purchased, however I really do not know what all was done. I bought it based on Bernie's reputation as a meticulous restorer. This actually was our first Buick (we have Packards, Cadillacs, etc.) I have done nothing to it except replace the battery and added a temporary throttle control. Most of our focus has been on designing a speedster body. It has been started and run every couple of weeks since I acquired it. I do have a video of the engine running when I purchased it. Did you look at the video of me driving the "car"? I have not driven it at highway speeds (the tires are not at all good, and I do not really have a death wish). However, I have driven it about 25-30 mph. Hope this helps, Pat

1931, 1932 Buick Series 50 Fenders

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

I have the following Buick Series 50 Fenders for Sale: · 1932 Front Fenders, Two Left and One Right · 1932 Rear Fenders, both Left and Right · 1931 Front Fenders, both Left and Right All are in good shape with solid metal. Some surface rust, a few dings, a couple have some minor tears etc.; not perfect, but easily repairable . $50 each for the front fenders, $40 each for the rears, or all 7 fenders for $250 OBO. <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPatrick%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><link rel="themeData" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPatrick%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_themedata.thmx"><link rel="colorSchemeMapping" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPatrick%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_colorschememapping.xml"><style>  </style> Additional pictures are available at: Buick Fender Pictures <o></o> I would be happy to answer any questions or send additional pictures on any of the fenders.<o> </o> <o>Thanks for looking</o> <o>Pat </o>

Restored and Running 1932 Buick Chassis

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in Automobiles and Parts - Buy/Sell

Hi: We are selling a complete, restored, 1932 Buick Series 50 Chassis. We had planned to build a <link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPatrick%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_filelist.xml"><link rel="themeData" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPatrick%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_themedata.thmx"><link rel="colorSchemeMapping" href="file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPatrick%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_colorschememapping.xml"><style>  </style>a Vintage Car Rally Association and Great Race eligible rally car. We have since acquired a completed ’31 Buick racer, so this project has to go.  If you want more info, including links to additional pics and video, go to Buick Club Buick Buy/Sell Forum: For Sale FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis I am asking $3,995 for the Running Chassis without the cowl, radiator shell and shutters, and a spare radiator or $4,195 with. Thanks for looking. Pat

August 20, 2010

FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

<o></o> We began this project to build a Vintage Car Rally Association and Great Race eligible rally car. We have since acquired a completed ’31 Buick racer, so this project has to go. Here are some of the details:  · The chassis and running gear are all in excellent condition. It had been restored by a well known Buick expert, and runs very strong. The Inline 8 cylinder engine runs smoothly, but could use a tune. The 3 speed transmission shifts smoothly.   · The cowl is from a 1928 Buick, and is in excellent condition and appears to still have original paint. The wood is fair; some parts can easily be replaced.   · The Radiator shell is 1932 Buick. We had planned to fill and paint it as it is heavily pitted   · Wood Wheels appear to be in very good condition. The spokes are tight, and still wear some original paint.   · The Chassis is driveable (but not street legal).  Seats and Gas Tank are available from Rootlieb if you want to build an open speedster. We had planned to build a wood boat-tail body in the style of a Labourdette Skiff or possibly a fabric boat-tail similar to early airplanes. We have documentation including some pictures and plans for those bodies. Some additional pictures are available at: Speedster Chassis A short video of me driving the chassis is at: Chassis Video Barrett-Jackson recently sold a 1928 Buick Inline 6 speedster for over $37,000 at the Orange County auction. It can be seen at: Barrett Jackson Buick Speedster Then go to Lot #349.<o></o> I am asking $3,995 for just the Chassis. If you want the Cowl, spare Radiator, and Grille Shell with shutters it would be $4,195 OBO THIS IS A PROJECT, AND NEEDS COMPLETION. It is on its way to being a great, fun car or very unique Speedster. Please PM any questions, extra pics, or to arrange to see this great project! Pat

Fuel Pressure Regulator Recommendations?

Pat_n_Pat replied to a topic in Technical

We had added an electric fuel pump to our '29 Packard to get fuel to the vacuum tank (we would not run on it, just prime the Stewart system). When the Vacuum tank started acting up. we initially bypassed it and added a Holley adjustable regulator. Later I took an "extra" Stewart vacuum tank, removed the innards, added some fuel line, and installed the regulator in the tank. Needed to block the vacuum port to the tank. I think the next step will be to move the regulator back by the fuel pump, near the gas tank. That way it will at least be accessible. Of course, I probably will get around to rebuilding the Stewart someday.......

Preserving original paint job

Pat_n_Pat replied to WHSEWARD's topic in Technical

You can still get Nitrocellulose lacquer from Bill Hirsch: -Hirsch Automotive Products There is no paint job that has the depth, richness, and warmth of Nitro. Acrylic lacquer comes close. Tower Paint can match any color since 1930 (and older in some cases); Then they will put it in an aerosol can for you. I don't know if they do nitrocellulose, but acrylic lacquer should blend well, as mentioned above. Cleaner wax is ok to remove oxidation. Use a good pure carnauba wax to protect the surface. You can restore a car a thousand times, but it is only original once!

'32 Buicks

Pat_n_Pat replied to a topic in Buick - General

Alex: Nope, no relation to Jim Brothers......but my parents were Brothers, my Grandparents were Brothers, and my two sisters used to be Brothers . Oh, and my wife's name is also Pat Brothers. Happy to talk Buick with ya! Pat (and Pat) Brothers

WTB '32 Buick Grille, Hood, Cowl

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

Still looking for a cowl, hood, and doors for '31 or '32 series 50. Any help greatly appreciated. Pat

WTB '32 Buick Grille, Hood, Cowl

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in Buick - Buy/Sell

<o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" http:="" forums.aaca.org="" images="" smilies="" redface.gif="" border="0" alt="" title="Embarrassment" smilieid="2" class="inlineimg"></o:smarttagtype><o:smarttagtype namespaceuri="urn:schemas-microsoft-com<img src=" http:="" forums.aaca.org="" images="" smilies="" redface.gif="" border="0" alt="" title="Embarrassment" smilieid="2" class="inlineimg"></o:smarttagtype> Wanted to buy '32 Buick grille, hood, cowl, and doors. I am building a replica of a 1932 boat-tailed racer. Can be just about any model, but a 50 series would be ideal. I have a complete 1932 Series 50 running chassis. I need the grille shell, hood, cowl and doors; or any of those parts to begin the project. I will consider earlier parts, too. <o></o> Located in <st1:state><st1>Oregon</st1></st1:state>, just outside <st1:city><st1>Portland</st1></st1:city>. Let me know what you have, condition, price.<o></o> Thanks, Pat

Home made electronic ignition

Pat_n_Pat replied to Rusty_OToole's topic in Technical

Pertronix makes units for just about all cars. We have one installed in our '41 Packard, which is 6 volt positive ground. Works great!!!! Ran it across country in the Great Race, and two Hemmings Challenges. One note of caution. Do not turn the ignition switch on without starting the engine. You can fry the unit and find yourself in a panic trying to find your old points plate to get running (happened on a VCRA rally in Texas). Pat

What are these?

Pat_n_Pat posted a topic in What is it?

Hi All: Found these in one of many boxes hauled out of our storage unit. They came out of my late father-in-laws garage. He collected just about anything: Marmon, Packard, Cadillac, etc. My guess would be '20s or '30s.They measure about 1.25" by 1.5". The four were all connected as if they were part of a set. They all have the part number 333043. Possibly Packard? Or just about anything else! Thanks for your help. Pat

November 17, 2009

Delco Ignition Switch fits what?

Pat_n_Pat replied to Pat_n_Pat's topic in What is it?

My late Father in law purchased a collection of magnetos in the mid 50's. It also included some ignition switches.......This actually appears to be one of the more modern ones! Could have been European. "I" and "L" for ignition and lights would indicate english speaking? Great Britain? I am surprised that it falls in numbering for 1926. I would have thought there would have been a few more patent dates over the 10 years from 1916 Thanks for your help, and thanks for checking. This is just one more in a long line of "oddities" we keep uncovering! Pat

Sign In

Pat_n_Pat

Posts

Joined

Last visited

Content Type

Forums

Gallery

Events

Everything posted by Pat_n_Pat

Is it safe?

Is it safe?

Motor oil

Migrating Gear Lube

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

Remove '31 Series 60 Generator

1931, 1932 Buick Series 50 Fenders

FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis

FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis

1931, 1932 Buick Series 50 Fenders

Restored and Running 1932 Buick Chassis

FS 1932 Series 50 Running Chassis

Fuel Pressure Regulator Recommendations?

Preserving original paint job

'32 Buicks

WTB '32 Buick Grille, Hood, Cowl

WTB '32 Buick Grille, Hood, Cowl

Home made electronic ignition

What are these?

Delco Ignition Switch fits what?

Delco Ignition Switch fits what?

Delco Ignition Switch fits what?

Delco Ignition Switch fits what?

Activity