Jim Cannon
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Posts posted by Jim Cannon
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That is not the original style booster. I can send you pictures of the correct one.
The brake pedal position is incorrect. This indicates someone has put in something and modified it to make it work.
The linkage to the brake pedal is incorrect. This is not something to fool around with. Brake failure on a 4200 pound car could be fatal.
I think the master cylinder looks correct.
Here's some of the details about brakes of this era that the previous owner might not have know:
The master cylinders and the boosters were made with either a shallow hole in the piston of the MC (about 1/4 inch deep) or with a deep hole (about 1 inch deep). The parts always need to be kept matched. If this guy has a mixture of one and the other, you will have problems. Or if the booster used (I can tell it is from a later model GM vehicle) is not designed for the piston hole depth that is installed, it is not going to work right.
The previous owner probably did not know where to get the original booster rebuilt (Booster Dewey) and the details on matching MC to booster. You can get it all right and build on his other new brake work (assuming it was done right and not botched up like the booster).
You can inspect the new brake hoses and see if they are new as claimed or old. One on the rear axle and one at each front wheel. You will also want to open up the wheels, look at the brakes, confirm that work was done right. Make sure parking brake is lubricated and working correctly.
You may also want to put in a dual master cylinder now, while you have it all apart. Then if you have a brake hydraulic system leak, you only lose half of the brake system. Not great, but better than nothing.
I find it crazy that previous owner would drive a car and sell a car with the brakes not right.
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4 hours ago, NailheadBob said:
2nd EDIT: @Jim Cannon
Jim, does that mean you seen the outlet inside his console? and were going to glue and fish it out to reattach it?
Yes. You can see the little vent inside the hole and dropped a bit. You don't fish it out, it has the flexible hose still connected to it. You just work it back up and in the hole while the glue dries.
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Aaron, be sure to measure the diameter of the center hole of the wheel you plan to buy. Make sure it matches the hole diameter on the wheels you have now.
For example, remove a rear hubcap and measure the rim center hole that is mated to the ridge that sticks up out of the face of the brake drum. Your new wheel should match that.
Too small of a center hole will not sit right on the hub or drum. I've been told too large of a center hole does not give proper wheel support; I'm not 100% sure about that.
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Aaron, if this car has been sitting for a long time, I recommend you disconnect the wire link between the heater blend door on the firewall to the heater hot water valve and operate the hot water valve manually to make sure it is freed up. Consider just leaving the hot water valve open in the winter and manually close it for the summer, don't reconnect the wire link. Then heater temp is controlled only by the blend door (which is adequate.) This hot water valve sticks and you will break the potmetal temperature control lever inside the car when it does.
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I agree, the car has been kept very clean. Those are the correct hubcaps for the '63 Riviera, with the center tri-shield all silver. (The other full-size Buicks in '63 had the red-white-blue tri-shield.)
Your body was built in the 3rd week of December (the 12C in the upper left corner of your data plate). Your ribbed dash is correct, it was introduced in very late-November '62.
That paint is called Fawn Mist. My car was painted the same color.
Please look at the engine block on the top of the deck, behind and to the left of the thermostat housing, and report on the engine code you see there. It should be something like JT429, something like that. The VIN is stamped to the right of the thermostat, behind the water crossover. I don't want the VIN.
The little heater outlet on the driver's side of the center console just needs to be glued back into place. You can do it by putting a little glue around the edge of the vent piece, slip a piece of coat hanger wire, with the end bent to an angle, into the vent, and pull it out, into the hole. Wait for the glue to dry.
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Thanks, Darrell.
The package went out today via Priority Mail, so you should see it next week on Tuesday or Wednesday.
I have now sold or got commitments for 15 of my 30 unit run. If you think you want one, please don't delay too long. Once they are gone, the shop will not do another run for me.
There will be a write up about them in The Review shortly and that will probably finish them off.
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I have now sold 15 of these temp control levers out of my 30 unit run. That's all there will be, so if you want one, please get back to me ASAP. Once they are gone, the shop does not want to make any more. (Too small of a job for them.)
I have a few orders from Australia that I will bundle into a single shipment, so if you want one, please get on my list.
Thanks!
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26 minutes ago, Dundee said:
Also Jim note this shipment may not leave until January…
I assumed as much.
Providing an invoice is not a problem.
Some of the guys that put Vintage Air in their '63s have kept the factory controls and figured out how to connect the new operating cable to the stock control lever, so you have stock controls and aftermarket works. That would be pretty sweet. IDK exactly how they did it.
If you still have the potmetal lever and you use it on the new system for temp control, the potmetal will eventually break. You will be happy you replaced it with steel while you are in there.
Or, when you are done, if you have not used it, you sell it to another '63 Riv or full-size Buick owner that needs it.
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10 hours ago, Dundee said:
Yes gents thats correct! I knew I was missing something frame wise and will be buying the cover from Clarks. We could fabricate but I will hunt out the parts and hoping to get a combined shipment with a freight forwarder out fo Florida early in the new year..
Thanks for those Snaps Brian..Awesome!
When you have the details sorted out with the freight forwarder, let me know and I can send your replacement steel Heater Temp Control arm over to them for 10 USD.
In fact, if you are willing to then send some replacement levers out to others in Australia that need them, from your shipment, I could include several in my mailer to your freight forwarder along with a list of who they go to.
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I have found that all accessory mats must be removed from the Driver's Side to allow the brake pedal to go down and as far forward as possible. Then the booster will slide to the outside of the car and off the brake pin as the booster mounting studs clear along the front face of the firewall.
A second person inside to guide the booster eye along the pin and off is a big help. Otherwise one person can do it by going back and forth between in the car and under the hood, moving the booster along in small steps.
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Brian's photos appear to be of a rear armrest without power windows.
Keep in mind that the front door armrests change shape and size if you have a Standard Interior or a Deluxe Interior (long armrest). So if you get panels and pieces from a parts car, be sure to get the correct armrests for your interior option (on the Fisher Body data plate on the firewall).
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I plotted your numbers on your timing chart. I think you are a bit too advanced at low RPM and then your mechanical should keep going up at higher RPM (not stop at 20 deg.).
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I have mailed out a bunch of these now. All of the feedback has been very positive.
I'm still waiting to hear from everyone in Australia that would like one. Right now I have only 2 names there.
If anyone in the US or Canada wants one, please let me know. There will be a short bit about them in an upcoming Riview magazine and I expect that will finish them off.
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Welcome back, Jason!
I remember you well.
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My fabricator has decided that he DOES want to make another batch of these steel temperature control levers for me, so I will have a good supply of them next week, if you want one.
$65 each plus $10 US domestic shipping (no matter how many levers you buy).
Email or private message me here if you need one. 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com
Thanks.
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5 minutes ago, Turbinator said:
Jim, $65.00 plus postage correct?
Yes. $75 to mail to USA addresses. Mailing outside the USA is more.
If you want one, Bob, shoot me the money via PayPal.
It looks like you will be getting the last one. I am getting pushback from my fabricator about doing another batch of levers. Kind of annoys me. I know more of you guys need them.
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I have the data plate for Dundee's car. I would like to know if the spare tire is mounted on the floor or up on the shelf. You can see where the loop is welded in for the tire mount link to hook into.
Your car body is a build date of 03C. I would expect it on the floor.
They really seem to have moved fully to the shelf in 03E (5th week of March).
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The seat upholstery made me laugh out loud! The seats look like BIG LIPS!
The interesting part is that this orange car is Fisher Body number 414, a very early production car, built in the first week of September, 1962. I can see a few early features.
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Got it. It will go out today.
Thanks!
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I now have the reproduction steel levers in hand from the machinist. They are a work of art. If you need one for your '63 or '64 full size Buick (but not the '64 Riviera) contact me at 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com
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OK, gang! To everyone that contacted me about getting. new Temp Control lever, they are here and ready to ship out.
Please use PayPal "Send money to a friend" option (no commision charged) for $75 to me (for domestic US mailing addresses) at 63Rivvy (at) gmail (dot) com and make sure I have your mailing address. I can get the lever out to you same day or next day.
I have had reports now of 2 of these levers being installed and both guys say they fit perfectly, work great.
One guy installed it while the controller assembly was still in the car. That was a difficult job, because you just don't have a lot of access to the posts, but he was able to do it. The other guy had his controller assembly out of the car (that's also what I did) and that is a much easier way to go.
If you emailed me requesting one, I will follow up with you by email.
If you'd like one and have not contacted me yet, please let me know. This first batch is sold out. I will have a second batch made this month if requests are there.
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14 hours ago, Dundee said:
Well after heavily trolling the web it seems not even Natalie Wood wanted electric vent windows in her standard interior car SO if anyone has this layout would love a photo of both front door interiors…..
Thanks
I have 287 data plates from 1963 Rivieras in my database (a small sampling of the original 40,000 built) and I have only TWO cars in there that have a Standard Interior and Power Vents (S8).
One of them is Dundee's car. The other is FB number 38163. It also has a power seat, like Dundee's. I do not have a record of the Owner's Name. I've been collecting these data plate details for a very long time and did not always capture the Owner Name. And I don't have any pictures of the car, just the data plate numbers.
So, yes, this combination is kind of rare.
I would suggest posting this question in The Riview. Ask all ROA members to contact Dundee if they have a Standard Interior in their 1st gen Riviera AND power vent windows. Then get pictures from them.
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1963 Booster and Pedal Questions
in Buick Riviera
Posted