Jim Cannon
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Posts posted by Jim Cannon
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7 hours ago, rocketraider said:
Was it possibly built in California? That might explain the closed PCV system, even if it was ultimately sold new in Canada.
All '63 Rivieras were built in Flint, MI, even those sold in Canada. Other body styles were built in various plants, but not the Riviera.
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John, have you sent me a picture of the data plate for this car?
This hose going from valve cover to air cleaner housing provides fresh air into the engine, while the PCV system is constantly pulling air, fumes, and blowby out of the engine. Prior to this hose (in '63) the oil filler cap was vented and this is where the fresh air came in. You will note that the oil filler cap here is sealed, forming a closed system.
When the PCV system is working correctly, this closed system setup is as clean as the '63 "open" system. But if the PCV valve cannot keep up with the blowby at some point, the extra fumes that would have come out through the '63 oil filler cap (and into the air, polluting it) now go through this added hose to the air filter housing, where they are sucked into the carburetor and burned in the engine. It's a very simple, cost effective way to reduce pollution when the PCV is overloaded.
The sticker on the radiator fan guard provides a simple procedure to get the carbon monoxide (CO) emissions at idle down a bit, even if you did not have access to a tailpipe emissions sniffer. Prior to this, mechanics set the idle mixture mostly by ear, and it was often too rich.
This stuff was probably added to the '63 model year car to meet new car sales laws in California that were intended for the '64 model year, but if this car sold "new" at the time California required it, they retrofitted it to meet the law (and then sold it through a Canadian dealer?).
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These pictures of the core and the retaining screws on the wire bales may help you visualize what you are dealing with.
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46 minutes ago, Hazdaz said:
Is '64 the same as '63?
Yes.
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Wix 51049
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49 minutes ago, XframeFX said:
So, My Fenco #FFC5049T purchase back in 1991 is OK? It appears deep enough in the fan shroud.
Tom M, which Fan Clutch is HD? I always found the Fan roaring upon cold start before kicking it off fast idle. Would prefer a looser (weaker) fan clutch for economy. We never have over heating issues in Canada.
LOL on a 1963 Jaguar XKE Fan, just a lame 2-Blade non clutched Fan! No overheating issues in the UK as well?
I have attached the Fan Clutch Receipt showing P/N and how typical parts purchases were always at "Trades Prices". Today, no Trades Prices, no senior's or club prices. Just full price to for the part and a cut to UPS courier and maybe you'll receive what was ordered.
John, that Fenco clutch is a standard duty thermal clutch and is perfect for Canada. It will start out spinning the fan on start up, but as the silicon oil inside the clutch spins out to the sides of the clutch, the fan speed will greatly reduce. Only when the face of the clutch gets to about 170*F will the clutch start to engage again. So for most of your driving, the clutch is only spinning the fan at about 20-30% of water pump shaft RPM. If it gets hot, the fan will speed up to about 60-70% of water pump shaft RPM.
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What was the part number for the new fan clutch that you first got that did not fit?
I know I have suggested Imperial 215049 in the past, but after a bit more research it appears that Imperial 215046 is the better clutch to use on our cars, if you have room for it. It is about 1/2" taller (sits closer to the radiator core) than the 215049.
You can also use a Hayden 2947. It is a lower profile heavy duty clutch. Same company that makes Imperial.
The Duralast 22045 looks like it is made by US Motor Works, their part number 22045.
RockAuto.com has many of these.
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4 hours ago, Deanoko said:
I found a direct for replacement yesterday at AutoZone: their Duralast 22038 or 22045 It's a 61-67 Corvette part, but it's what I needed. (The 22045 actually shows to fit 64 Riv 7 liter) All installed. Now just trying to get the little rubber nubs of the new U shaped radiator mounts to go into their holes, so the radiator can go back in. Tough to get to. A little slippery stuff will help.
Limited Lifetime Warrantee. That's nice.
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To get good, reliable gas gauge readings, I recommend you add a little extra ground wire from the tank to the body or frame. One of the gas gauge mounting screws is a good place to connect to the tank. Then find a place on the body or frame to connect the other end of the wire to.
I really don't know where Buick intended the tank to get a ground connection. The more paint you have on everything, the poorer the ground will be without having a wire added.
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My '63 is undercoated. IDK if that was all Rivieras or a dealer thing. Car was sold new in San Diego.
So there is undercoating on the tank and on the straps. In a few places where the undercoating has peeled, I have gone back and sprayed a little touch-up undercoating in those areas.
So maybe the black you are seeing is remnants of undercoating?
Hope that helps.
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6 hours ago, OldGerman said:
Just checked my vaccum advance (1963 401 cui) with vacuum pump and timing light at idle rpm. Could only add about 15 deg advance with pumping 20HG. That seems to be a bit low advance deg. to me. There is no spec. In the Shop manual, just the Graph . The graph would tell me something between 15-20* vaccum advance at lowest rpm ( idel) without mechanical advancein Action. Is that right ? The diaphragm seems to Hold the vacuum.
Do not use the 1965 vacuum advance chart for your '63. Get the chart from the '63 shop manual.
15 degrees of maximum vacuum advance sounds about right. It is added to the centrifugal advance at higher RPM.
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11 hours ago, Aaron65 said:
Thanks Jim,
Does "Sold Order" mean that the dealer or customer ordered it? In other words, most cars would be a Sold Order?
No, it just means it's a regular retail sale, not fleet, not demonstrator, etc.
A dealer can order it for sale from the lot. Or a customer can sit down and order it exactly how they want it.
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The * code in that position indicates Order Classification:
*4 = Dealer Demonstrator Order (or Zone Company Car)
*5 = Fleet Order
*6 = Sold Order
*7 = Flint Factory Delivery
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"Stop and go" driving really uses a lot of fuel because of the massive weight of the vehicle. It takes a lot of energy to accelerate the large mass.
With my '63 Riviera with the 401, out on the highway, running a constant speed around 60 MPH (100 KPH), I have gotten as good as 17 MPG (13.8L/100km) with the A/C off.
The A/C reduces it by about 1 MPG to 16 MPG (14.7L/100km).
In the city, with a lot of stop and go, lots of cold starts, etc., it is common for me to see 10 MPG or less (23.5L/100km or more).
To improve fuel consumption:
- inflate tires to ~32 psi
- make sure your gas cap is sealing well (otherwise fuel leaks out when you accelerate)
- keep carb jets clean (run a fuel system cleaner regularly, take the carb apart now and then and spray all jets and passages clean with carb cleaner followed by air)
- make sure float needle valves are shutting off properly
- make sure vacuum advance is working properly
- make sure the exhaust manifold "heat riser flapper" is opening when hot
- make sure the choke is opening properly as engine starts and warms up (they stick)
- try to not step on the gas pedal too hard too often (really hard to do with such a powerful engine 😃)
The higher cost of the high octane fuel also makes the poor fuel economy a bit more painful. But, oh the JOY when you step down on that gas pedal! This car never fails to bring a smile to my face! It's worth it!
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On 6/25/2023 at 2:55 PM, atencioee said:
If that's the case, maybe I'll replace the illumination bulbs (which are dimmed by the knob) with the same type of bulb, which I think is a 161 🤔. Currently, I'm not getting much light from those... can't see the panel well in the dark.
Mine dim just fine.
Come visit me and we can go for a joy ride at night. I will show you.
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2 hours ago, Tsumbody said:
I am looking for a connector my ignition key tumbler? messed up and the release did not work to remove it. After that battle when I unplugged the connector of course someone had previously did something with the wires two female connectors are loose housing is cracked. In my never-ending frustration with wiring, I have heated words with a moron that had no business under the dash. After many hours I think I found what this idiot was doing. A radio and two speakers on the rear deck finding a hot wire and routing the speaker wires under the carpet around dimmer switch, parking brake bracket in and out of wire harness etc. Between the radio and the dash AC vent cracked as well and more. Sorry I need to vent so bad. Okay I'm looking for a connector appreciate any leads, Also if someone has an fuse box mine is a little heat distorted. Overall the harness is not that bad I have repaired splices nicks etc. soldered heat shrinked cloth taped for now. I want to upgrade the alternator to 75 amp not a 1 wire. Do the big 3 upgrade add a fused relay prewired block for car stereo and headlights if needed electric fan? Adding mechanical gauges. I appreciate all those on this site who share there knowledge with guys like me new to Rivieras. If anyone wants to jump in on any of the above please and thank you. Enjoy the holiday all stay safe.
This is also for a '63 Riv?
I think there are guys that are parting out cars that can get you the connector plus enough wire to splice it into the old harness.
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7 hours ago, atencioee said:
I was thinking about LEDs. However, it's my understanding they aren't dimmable, which I admit has me leaning more towards what was original.
My LEDs dim somewhat with the factory rheostat dimmer knob on my '63. They may not be perfect, but I like them.
I up-sized all of my factory bulbs once with 1 candlepower brighter bulbs. That helped some, but I felt the instruments were still too dim.
When I went to LEDs, I finally felt like the instruments and controls were clearly visible. I do not find them too bright for night driving. Remember, I went with Warm White.
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Put in LED bulbs there. Brighter and cooler at the same time. Get warm white color temperature.
SuperBrightLEDs is having a sale right now.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/2023-independence-day-sale
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Is the A/C system stock or has someone installed an aftermarket A/C system in the car?
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12 hours ago, XframeFX said:
OK, TXs.
So, the Tang is on the retractor and the Latch is inboard below the Console?
yes.
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6 hours ago, XframeFX said:
Again, I have moved on from seat belts but, do you have pictures of what you have Jim?
I have attached pictures of the belts, buckles, retractors, etc. from before they were restored. They are dirty and frayed, so they don't look so good. I never took any pictures of the final product (but they look great!). The retractor installs on the belt that is next to the door. It keeps the end from falling out the door. The other end has an automatic spooler that takes up excess webbing coming off of the adjustable buckle. Kind of clunky, but it works.
You can occasionally find Maji-buckle sets on eBay. I have seen black and green.
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Bill-
I have had good luck with the "vacuum switches", as Buick called them, by giving a shot of silicon spray into the nipple and then actuating the switch with your fingers repeatedly. That gets them moving and sealing again. You may need to spray again in a year, but they will work.
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5 hours ago, Craig Balzer said:
Jim
Will this lever work on any other Riviera aside from the '63?
Craig
'65 Riviera Gran Sport
No.
The '64 and later Riviera moved the temp control to the center console, away from under the dash pad.
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OK, gang. Sales have gone well. I now have just 7 of these new replacement Temp Control levers left for the '63 Full-size Buicks and the '64 Full-size Buick EXCEPT the '64 Riviera (uses a different HVAC control).
If you need one, let me know. When they are gone, they're gone. My fabricator will not be making any more. (Not worth his time.). When the original potmetal lever brakes, you are hosed.
65 USD plus postage to you. I just mailed one the Denmark yesterday.
Booster Dewey?
in Buick Riviera
Posted · Edited by Jim Cannon (see edit history)
Of all the early Rivieras, the seal was only used on the '63 Buicks. But it was used on all the full-size models.
Take the dimensions and see if you can find a big o-ring that will seal it off. If it's not sealed, you will lose your power boost.
See if the ring in this repair kit is for the master cylinder.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=964522&cc=1319598&pt=1840&jsn=432