flxible

My '50 Buick Riviera, 54K miles and garaged since at least '69, has the original black paint with the expected 50-plus years of scratches, minor dings and a few spots where a patina has formed. What's the best process to rub out the surface oxidation and light scratches and then protect with wax? I've tried the paint bar and clearcoat rubbing compound methods. These do an OK job but the Riviera deserves a better shine. Any recommendations, restoration tricks or trade secrets are welcome Tony 1948 Ferguson TE20 1950 Buick Riviera 1950 Buick Flxible ambulance 1955 Ford F350 Dually Dump 1994 Ford F150 5.8L 4X4 1986 BMW 635CSi

I "re-chromed" the plastic reflectors in my '86 BMW 635 as follows: 1. remove reflector, clean, dry and tape off the bulb sockets; 2. spray with black 'plastic-compatible' spray paint. This is your 'primer' coat for the plastic; 3. give the reflector at least two coats of aluminum enamel. Two years out and the reflectors look like OEM. Tony 1950 Buick Riviera 54K miles 1950 Buick Flxible Ambulance

Interesting but expensive alternative to generator repair. Another, less expensive and non-stock option is used by the antique tractor folks who desire to upgrade from 6V to 12V using the 1-wire GM alternators - pretty cheap from junk yards or the national parts chains. The only downside is that one usually has to craft new alternator brackets. Tony 1950 Buick Riviera 1950 Buick/Flxible ambulance

A few years ago I purchased a complete set of parts for a complete rebuild kit from Kanter. Also had the lever action shocks rebuilt by Kanter. The Kanter parts aren't OEM but the quality is as good as you'll get from the National chain parts houses. I've also purchased stuff from Bob's - another good vendor. Tony 1948 Ferguson TE20 1950 Buick Rivera 52K miles 1950 Buick Super/Flxible ambulance 1950 Ford Dually Dump 1994 Ford F150 5.8 4X4

Here's my suggestions: (1) After 6 years the gas will be mostly varnish with lots of water. Drain the gas tank and refill with fresh. (2a) Pull the plugs and spray the cylinders with 'Fogging Oil" used for winter storage of boats. (2b) Change oil and filter. (2a and To prime the engine just pull the coil wire and turn the engine until you have oil pressure or the idiot light goes out. You can bring up the oil pressure and fog the cylinders at the same time. Fog 2 - 3 times. It should take less than 60 sec of cranking with the plugs out. As mentioned above - check the brakes. Brake fluid sucks up water. (3) Once the engine is running a brake flush would be on my list before I do a road test. Invest $40 bucks in a pressure brake bleeder. It is likely that the brake bleeder screws are rusted shut. Remove, clean on a bench top wire wheel till shiny and clean out the bleeder hole. Get some ATE Super Blue brake fluid and bleed the nasty brown brake fluid until the fluid coming out is blue. Once you get it running (4) check the trunk and under the front and back seats for rodent nests. You may need to set traps to eliminate them. Good luck and enjoy your classic Buick. Beer breaks are essential. Tony 1948 Ferguson TE20 1950 Buick Riviera 52K miles 1950 Buick Super/Flxible Ambulance 1955 Ford F350 Dually Dump 1986 BMW 635CSi 1994 Ford F150 5.8 4X4 2000 SeaRay 185 B/R

Glad to see your post. I purchased a 50 Buick/Flxible ambulance about 2 years ago. The ambulance is quite rough having seen too many decades of Delran NJ winters. Engine and 3-speed trans are good but last summer something let go in the driveline, probably one of the rear U-joints, so it's no longer mobile. Not sure when I will get to this project with other distractions: '50 Buick Riveria (52K miles), '55 Ford F350 dually dump, '48 Ferguson TE20 tractor, '86 BMW 635CSi and '94 Ford F150 5.8 4X4. It would be nice to get a better sense of how many of these vehicles are still around via some sort of list of Flxible ambulance and hearse owners for that era Best, Tony, aka barlowtc50