['41 Connie Stuck Brake Drum]

Scott, Picture may help make adjuster more obvious.  Parts Manual is no help for drawings, but the Chassis and Parts manual does have many helpful diagrams, can find on ebay.  Or you can download the 2020 Parts price book on Boos-Herrel web site and Chris has many good diagrams there as well.

 

Not sure if this pic is front brake or not, may be a rear.  But for illustration, try to find the adjusting hole in the back of the brake backing plate behind the star wheel adjuster and using a brake adjusting tool- turn the adjuster so it becomes shorter, the the end of the brake shoes come closer together and make a smaller diameter- don't grab the drum so tight.  I am a '40 owner so can not be sure, but pay attention that the screw inside the adjuster may be left-hand thread so when you are turning the adjuster one tooth at a time by prying thru the back hole, you may be tightening instead of loosening.  Keep us informed how you do. Paul

[Interior Materials]

Hi Phil,  Many fabrics were never reproduced and no longer available, so often can only pick something close. With LeBaron out of business, two other I am aware of: 1)  SMS Fabrics in Canby, Oregon; never used them, may in future, know one owner with 39 sedan satisfied with them.  2) After Jim Roll passing and a great reputation esp for Continentals, his son Jan was reupholstering V12 Lincolns last I heard- in New Philadelphia OH; can ask if he will sell just the material separate, without doing install?  Good Luck, Paul

[Bad Knock in New Rebuild]

The V12 Engine Rebuild Manual cautions to assure all stamped rod and cap numbers 1-12 are assembled facing the front of the engine.  If not, it will cause a clatter or loud racket, depending upon how many are backward.  You are describing this as a knock, so this may not be the problem, but a long-shot possible cause.

[1939 LZ Rims]

Ray at Classic Car Transport in Southington CT advertises in TWOTZ,  has also parted out many many LZ's and excellent LZ parts source, at Hershey ea year, a class act, very responsive. Very pleased with a dozens of the parts from him, he probably has rims you need, he has almost everything . 

[Tires and Rims]

Another item you may have already considered,, If you have a two-speed Columbia, highway RPM's might not be a problem. but if no overdrive- you may want to think twice about a smaller circumference tire revving more on the highway.  Phil Knapp summarized rim sizes well in his 8/30/2010 thread on 1940's vs 1941's, in addition to what Keith mentions.    1939/1940 = 16x4,  1941=16x5,  and 1942 on were 15x5.   Fender skirts have pretty tight clearance as well- anyone with experience changing from 16x4 to the wider 16x5 or 15x5 rims know if there are problems with the wider tires rubbing on the 1939 and 1940 fender skirts?

[SPRING IS HERE]

You got that rear drive-train back together fast, evidently its running well! Like the pics!

[Transmission oil leaks]

Spot on Tom, you're good!  Pic.

 

[Fender skirts]

I bought from Alan Whelihan at a parts swap - very nice; never checked Chris, he may have too.  I think polished SS, but looks like chrome. Two different types depending on year.  Need P/N or know if yours have the shorter or longer square shaft. Paul

[47 Continental Banjo King]

You are always expanding our horizons Jeff!!  Now I know who Eddie Peabody is, the banjo king.  But I bet Eddie didn't ever own both a H-V12 and a VW MicroBus, even more rare with your top narrow windows.

[1939 Zephyr Fuel Tank and 1939 Ford Fuel Tank]

The manual call for a Zephyr "H" part number, so it must be different than the Ford part number somehow.  For a 1939 Zephyr (96H) it lists Fuel Tank # H-9002-A.  

 

[1941 Lincoln ID]

By "I'd", are you looking for past owners and history? Would have to see if Dave Cole's past tracking charts might be available. 16H is a 1941.  57 designates the Lincoln-Continantal Coupe.  And it is the 785th Continental Coupe made in 1941 out of ?????  Not many made, probably toward the end of 1941.  The actual VIN number used is the engine number stamped on the top of the frame between the driver front wheel and the exhaust manifold.  Hope that is a quick help if you are looking to make a quick buying decision. 

 

[1940 Cabriolet]

If Cabr is similar to Sedans, is a small plate staked to inside of upholstery backing board holding the spring clip to the backing board.  Can slip 2 pieces of chipboard (cereal box) in the crack between the door upholstery and the door metal to protect both. Put small putty knife between the 2 pieces of chip board, pry out till a gap wide enough to see where the metal plates and spring clips are.  Then prying against metal on both sides (between plate & door, but with the chipboard protecting your paint and upholstery) you should be able to pop the spring clip out of the hole in the door sheet metal. They make small plastic pry bar upholstery tools (like a screw driver with a slight angled forked end) to do this as well if you have one, but if not you can carefully use a putty knife and screw driver to pry out the spring clips. Paul

[#4658 DRIVESHAFT BEARING]

You won't miss a beat not going to the gym during CV-19, good exercise, those are not light parts you are throwing around!  Now we all know what the bearing looks like, and have great instructions in our files if ever needed!  You were smart for not ignoring the equivalent of  "heart attack warning signs" when you felt the shudder in rear end as you let off on the gas. Taking it apart to find the problem early may have prevented a Columbia explosion.  Nice pics. Good Stuff.

[Gasket Sealer]

It really depends where the sealant is being used, there is a wide variety.  I would not use the lower cost gasket maker acetoxy silicones on anything car or engine related since the acetic acid in it is the cure catalyst and causes corrosion on metal surfaces so they will leak in about 3 years.  You can tell by it's strong smell right away.  It is better for ceramic or non metal.  The better silicone sealants have a sweeter smell but most  will  not hold up to high pressure and temp on a head gasket.  Some car manufactures use silicone only on valve covers and oil pans.  But you want to get the right cure time if you need time to fit, and you want the right viscosity and tensile strength so it doesn't blow out.  Some like Loctite 598 black are thinner viscosity, but better quality silicone.  And 5900 is a heavy body black silicone for oil pans- put on, finger tighten bolts, and slightly re-tighten bolts next day after cure.  If a tranny gasket it needs to be chemically compatible.  Have to be sure on rear end pumpkin gaskets to not use just any silicone because most will cause the oil/slip agent to foam and wear the gears fast. I think heavy body grey 5699 is recommended for rear end covers.  I would research on line for your specific application, or call 1(800)-loctite and punch numbers needed to get  to Tech Service, describe your application and they will give you a few P/N recommendations for free.

[Exhaust Hanger Brackets 5292- Center Crossmember]

Appreciate the feedback. Does not seem like just the rubber is available separately.  If they were vulcanized originally, just the rubber would not help much. Wasn't sure if the buttons were made oversized when new and were just forced into the holes.  Will have to ponder what's next, if it is worth trying to fabricate from bulk rubber and try to adhere. Thx!

[1937 zephyr engine braces]

A barn-find pic on-line shows the same thing.

 

[1940 Cabriolet]

Manual calls for different door check P/N's for the different models.  Series 56 with a longer door may have shorter check arm so it stops earlier (smaller angle), or would not be able to reach out from the seat and grab the arm rest.  Series 73 4-door with shorter doors may swing out farther with larger angle because can still reach out from seat to shorter door and grab arm rest.  Don't have both parts to compare however.

[37 LZ V12 questions]

Thanks Dave for including us in the findings step by step, with helpful photos!  A good lesson learned by many now to pack away back in our memory & to keep an eye out for should we ever need it.

[Exhaust Hanger Brackets 5292- Center Crossmember]

Does anyone know of a source for the rubber only on the center crossmember exhaust hanger brackets (#5292-A)?  Two new rubber/metal assemblies are fairly expensive; I have the metal if I can just buy the 2 rubber isolators separately.

Thx,

[37 LZ V12 questions]

Manuals, or Boos-Herrel catalog, show a simple diagram to help visualize gears he refers to.

 

[LZOC East- Hershey Swap Meet 2020]

Please note under the EVENTS tab CALENDAR that the information about the Swap Meet has been updated - the March 28th date has been postponed. 

[37 LZ V12 questions]

Have never made the modification to a hi-vol pump myself, but read many threads in the past discussing modifications required to the pickup screen and "cup" in the bottom of the pan.  You can visualize that the pump can not pull in oil if the pickup screen is blocked pressing on the bottom of the pan- starving for oil on pump inlet because no clearance; could cause low oil flow-low pressure.  If you do a search on this forum for old threads, it indicates how important it is when installing a hi-vol pump that the engine re-builder knows the modifications required for a larger pump so it doesn't block off the pickup screen.  Might want to do a (thread) SEARCH in the top (blue band) right hand corner: Catbird thread July 30, 2016 titled "V12 Oil Pump? Do I have Standard or High Volume?"  Peecher is very expert on these engines and has helped many of us; his comments may be very helpful to you if you don't know if/what modifications your engine re-builder made to the pickup screen/cup in the pan at the time for the larger pump.

[1946 Lincoln Pace Car]

The legendary late Tom Lerch had a yellow 1946 Lincoln pace car (Canton OH?).  Don't recall who owns it now since his passing.   Not sure if it was an official pace car, or just similar.  So I am sure some of the LZOC past TWOTZ magazines have documented photos of it.  Another fellow did an excellent restoration of I think a yellow 1946 Lincoln that was displayed at the LZOC GOF in Cumberland MD 2011, but not sure it was a pace car or coupe.  A quick google IMAGES search for "1946 Lincoln Indy Pace Car" comes up with 2 partial pics of the interior of a pace car.  One is with the top down and hood open, backed up to a red brick wall, and the seat tops definitely are maroon.  Another photo from conceptcarz.com shows a close-up of the passenger door, with cracked maroon leather seat showing thru the window.  Might help lead you to a more definite lead.  Paul

[LZOC East- Hershey Swap Meet 2020]

opps, I should have checked, it is already listed on the Events Calendar - good job!

[LZOC East- Hershey Swap Meet 2020]

Good News- the Lincoln Spring parts swap meet is back after a gap- so I was asked to post this on the club's website Forum for those who might not see it in TWOTZ magazine. (and better yet- Bob, could you add it to the Calendar tab on this Home page?  a big thanks!)  Mark your calendar to keep the dates open, and start digging out the parts you want to sell and developing a list of parts you want to buy.  It is usually a great mix of individuals selling their home extras at reasonable prices, and our club vendors selling a great selection of valuable parts, manuals, posters, photos, etc. for our Lincolns.  Nothing better than seeing parts with your own eyes and touching before you buy em.  If you can't get it here, or arrange early for the vendors to bring items you need to pickup there, you will probably learn where you can get more rare items you need  But just as much as getting parts I need, I like talking and eating with friends who know how to do things, how things work, hearing the stories, where to find stuff, Lincoln and club history, ........!!  And these are the guys to talk to also if you are looking to buy a Lincoln, because they know the values and have a lot of contacts/leads.  I am really looking forward to the Question and Answer Tech talk, because so many of these guys are expert hands-on that have done what we are trying to do, so their hints are a huge advantage.  A good shot-in-the-arm to get us moving so we have our cars ready when the nice weather hits!  Hope to meet you there!!  Paul