pesd

No apologies, Thanks for your help and concern, will know more on Friday.

Hi Hemi, I dont understand, all the marks are lined up, I removed the valve cover to confirm that I could pin/lock the cams just to make sure. put everything back in place and runs smooth, sounds ok. A slight mysterious rev of the RPM's every minute or so. what are you seeing that looks wrong, the only thing that I notice is that the cam lobes are not completely on there heals? I appreciate your scrutiny, and of course want to get this right. Thanks, Peter

I'll have to take a close look and a picture next trip to my car, about an hour away. Thanks I did order the cam tensioning tool should have it on Friday

Soo, just got back, you guys are great. took the upper TB cover off , much better but still squealing a little. took the plunge and took of all accessory belts, removed the main crank pully to make life easier. backed off the tensioner and no more noise, but the timing belt is traveling towards the 1 cylinder and almost rubbing on the valve cover. Backed off the tensioner even more thinking it would correct but no. Backed it off almost dangerously loose and still off centered on the cam sprockets? What am I possibly missing? what drives the timing belt to be centered on the cam pulley's? I was so excited to drive it home tonight, but Christmas will come another day, soon i hope. much thanks as always, peter

thanks so much! I will take a very deep look into it tomorrow and will not push on the road till I'm confident i wont hurt her.

no, sorry Hemi, I dont have all the special tools, went old school and cranked it down, but considering I could barely get a wrench on it with some leverage, I would be surprised if its too tight. I'm really thinking / hoping it's the timing belt cover. Thanks for your concern. Peter

Thank Guys, Sorry no feedback from my end recently, had to move from my condo to a new house the beginning of July and I hate moving, I think everyone does. Started the 16V last week sounds ok, got a code 24, cleaned up the connection and codes went away, one odd vacuum hose to to the right of the Turbo into the firewall is broken, will fix that tomorrow. A little whining noise, I believe the timing belt is rubbing on the cheap plastic cover that was compromised when I took it off, did the best with JB weld ? it will fix itself, hopefully. Plan on driving it home on Friday, will keep you posted, Thanks everyone for ALL the help. Peter

A little late, almost back together, planning on turning it over Friday, that's what I said two months ago. Do these timing marks look OK? more concerned about the cam marks, I believe they are supposed to be very slightly below the top of the head, these are about even with it. also, a quick question, who made the 16V block ( i should know this) THANKS Peter

Thanks Reaper, I'll take a look at the two other options you suggested but hoping another member might come up with something, hopefully starting the engine by Friday.

thanks, front end, turbo replacement, right wheel assembly, drive shaft, new seals, had to take every thing out to get to the turbo. coolant and oil lines, air intake and vacuum lines. exhaust. everything almost back together, but that part has me concerned. maybe it doesnt even belong to this project??

Anyone know what or were this part goes on my 16 valve. That's what happens when a project drags out for five months. any help is appreciated, thanks. pesd

Thanks Reaper, Wise advise, hoping on getting it back on the road before Memorial day weekend and will keep all my helpful friends posted. PESD

OK, Any input is very appreciated. Thanks again to Chris at Turbo Unleashed, Diogo at RDIperformance, Hemidude, Reaper1 and all that contributed. Two weeks to getting this 16 valve on the road for summer weather, we know the turbo failed, new one installed, 13,000k on the origional, why would it fail, should I be looking at something else? I dont want to fire this thing up to have another turbo blow after lots of money and hours this past winter, last I drove it 70 mph on the highway for 10 miles, I noticed first time ever oil pressure was down considerably, off the next ramp (not far) checked the dipstick, very low! three more blocks to a NAPA, added two quarts and that's when I saw clouds of smoke from the exhaust. Was it a anomaly with the turbo or possibly an oil pump fail or similar that starved the turbo causing it to fail? Something I should check before I turn the key and cross my fingers. Thanks, Peter D

I would love to recupe some cost but I already told Chris at Turbo's Unleashed he could keep it, I hope I'm not going to regret it and whined up buying it back from him down the road if this one goes belly up. thanks any how.

Correction, Chris in Arizona at Turbo's Unleashed, Sorry Chris!

Thanks, I have already talked to Chris, he sounds very knowledgeable and professional, I will most likely ship this off to him to see if its rebuild able. thx again, peter

Thanks Reaper1, sent the question before I saw your reply. I did wind up taking the exhaust manifold off. got the turbo out, definitely shot, lots of play up and down, ordered a rebuild kit but have not completely dissembled it. a couple friends think the impeller fins might be bent. I'm hoping they might be ok, nothing to compare to. options; $120 Rebuild it using the $120 kit and hope that it runs properly (assuming the shaft and fins arn't that far gone) $350 send it to Chris in Florida Turbos Unlimited who does rebuilds if possible (assuming the shaft and fins arn't that far gone) $1000 New turbo I've seen online Rick at RDI performance (lots of TC parts) maybe an aftermarket option?

Looking at all options, does anyone know of aftermarket turbo that will fit ( work with) the 16 valve?

Not sure the pic posted. THX

Thanks Reaper & Hemi, back at it today, thought I would have the turbo out tonight. How the hell do you get the two lower nuts off connecting the Turbo to the exhaust manifold???? can get an open end on the nut but no room for any leverage to turn, and that looks like the easy one of the two. got the upper, last two bolts to pull this. Any advise is more than appreciated. THANKS

Just last week spent Sunday getting to the turbo, almost have it out for inspection, only had a few hours last week. On a lift, removed the front right drive assembly ( according to the manual) going back to continue this coming Saturday. Will keep you posted after I get it out. My new question? : Oil all over the place mostly towards the passenger side (front of engine), what would be the most probable leaking point I should address while its on a lift? I suspect crank or cam seals, how difficult to find and replace. THANKS as always for any help & direction. pesd

Hi Hemi, A while back you suggested blocking off the oil feed line to the turbo to see if the exhaust smoke stops, if it does we know that's the culprit. I plan on doing that first when I get it on a lift in the next couple weeks. I plan on doing it for the minimal amount of time BUT could I possibly damage the turbo running it for a short period without oil maybe causing another problem if it is not the culprit (I believe or hope it is). A turbo swap sounds easier than an engine tear down. And yes Reaper1 I will do a leak down next if the the turbo looks ok. THANKS

As always thanks for your help, I'll keep an eye out for a 2500 down the road, right now I'm drained after Christmas. In a couple weeks I'll be resuming my troubleshooting and repair of my TC and I'm sure I'll be looking for some of your expertise. Happy New Year

Looking for and inexpensive scanning tool / OBD for a 16 valve. I have a bluetooth OBD2 for my newer cars, do the adapters work or might it be more reliable doing the key on off thing? Thanks for any suggestions