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Everything posted by pesd

  1. Thanks Hemi, Another friend / car enthusiast (NASA engineer, really) told me the same, In the spring I will replace the tank and while I'm at it, the pump, about $200 for both. In the future can I also fill the tank completely and add a little dry gas to prevent condensation?
  2. Mine has recently done the same, running fine then acts like someone just turned off the ignition key, I can wait fifteen minutes and it will start, I suspect the fuel pump mainly because after it runs for a while there is a high pitch noise coming from the fuel tank, noticed it about a month ago when I had it on a lift. has anyone else had a noisy fuel pump, is that common? going into storage for the winter in a couple weeks and was going to deal with it in the spring. THX
  3. Thank you Hemi & Reaper, I of course will take your advise, I honestly wish I could repay the favor with exchanging some of my knowledge, but you two have me beat hands down. maybe some day?
  4. I love my 16v, and she's been running great lately especially after I replaced the pick up coil in the distributor, BUT, after she drives for a while there's a high pitch noise coming from the fuel tank, I'm assuming this is the pump with the sock filter on it (Is this noise normal?). then today going up a steep incline she lost her power and started sputtering, Its happened a few times over the past few years. I always try to keep her with more than half a tank and that seems to help a little. Any thoughts are appreciated as always. she's going to bed for the winter in a month but I love driv
  5. Is it the same? I probably have a couple yards of it, its yours if you want it.
  6. How much pinstripe do you need? I think I have a small roll in the garage.
  7. Thanks Hemi, I hope you've been well, in our state over twenty years is not required, but I also dont want to be adding pollutants to the environment knowingly. Any suggestions on a replacement? I will check Rock Auto.
  8. Hi Gang, For the past couple years my catalytic converter has always rattled a little especially at start up and more so when the engines cold, It's been getting a little worse lately. My brother is suggesting to cut it out and just go with a straight pipe splice. can anyone tell me why I shouldn't do that? Thanks
  9. Thanks Reaper, I'm sorry, sort of jumping threads here, in the other thread "Strange Things" I was complaining about the car running "slightly off" and the tach jumping around. You suggested that it might be the TPS which I replaced but still off and on erratic. Hemi suggested the HEP ( Hall effect plate) that I replaced (with a STANDARD) along with a new Blue streak cap and STANDARD rotor with new plug wires from Rick Diego while I'm in that area. So my car was running, just acting funny, not it's usual smooth self. But now it wont start at all, I just ordered a Duralast CR121 HEP
  10. EBAY has one manufactured or distributed by Formula Auto Parts PUC20, any thoughts?
  11. Now my car wont start, I suspect I have the same issue with the NFG STANDARD hall effect plate as No1parfive, can anyone tell me where to source a good Hall effect assembly, I looked at Delphi Brand web site they have nothing listed. I guess I'm doing this twice.
  12. was standard the good replacement or the one that failed?
  13. Hard time interpreting I just bought a Standard rotor, hall effect plate and bluestreak cap, are these OK? cables from Rick D, tomorrows mission, I dont want to do this twice. Please advise
  14. I'll get under it and take a look around this weekend also I remember seeing a vacuum line probably going to that bypass valve that was sandwiched between two other hoses that might need some correcting, thanks
  15. I believe I did disconnect one hose ( maybe 1") that went to the bottom of that valve, but I'm sure I reconnected it, I moved it to get a little more access to the larger 3" lower radiator hose. could I have damaged or disconnected something by accident? THX
  16. Hi Hemi, Sorry for slow responce, internet went down again last night and today Dash slider seems to make no difference, except making me really hot driving around with the heaheat on when it's 95 degrees out. running half way to three quarter mark, has always run cool, the fan is coming on, maybe hook up a temp gauge in the engine compartment, where? The tach is back to jumping around and the engine is back to rumbling and popping slightly off. My next target is the hall effect plate you mentioned but how would that effect the engine temp? Thx
  17. Sorry for the no response recently, no power internet or cell service for the past six days, put in the new TPS yesterday, filled with coolant took her out for a test, drove a quarter mile sounds smooth, tach not jumping but then noticed the temp gauge at 3/4. back to the driveway and let her cool down a bit added more coolant with the bleeder valve on the thermostat open while idling till coolant comes out of the bleeder as per the manual. As it was idling tach was about 8k rpms, where it typically is and idling smoothly. Drive #2 now temp is jumping around when not jumping at the h
  18. Thanks for the heads up, these look identical, what a PITA to get the old one out, wound up removing the radiator and yes I was careful with the vacuum lines.
  19. Very nice job, thank you.
  20. I should have looked before I asked, Rock auto offers 1, does it look like this might fit?
  21. Thanks Hemi, No "Federal Case" involved, I always welcome your advice and respect your many years of expertise. Where would I source a new Hall effect pickup assembly?
  22. Thanks, thinking about if i want to just replace the distributor and plugs wires while Im into it, it is throwing a code 24 and just to rule things out like the "HEP" (sorry Hemi) and reluctor and plate that Hemi mentioned is held on by two plastic rivets that some times fails, I would replace those small items and not the whole distributor but would not what parts to order and I assume they would come with a re manufactured distributor from Cardone 303943, I would get the plug wires from Rick at RDI performance and a cap and rotor. and the hopefully not worry about servicing that a
  23. I should have said distributor and grounds then vacuum if I really think its electrical.
  24. Thanks very much Reaper, I'm relatively confident its not the timing belt, I dont think I jumped a tooth, It's just slightly off. I took her out today and went up a winding hill that's usually no problem in third and today it was a struggle. I sat in the car and just listened, Idle fine but a slight surge about every 10 -15 seconds, no one else would notice, so minimal but there. I'm really thinking distributor more so than vacuum. I believe the distributor is original ( though car only has 18000k ) I read the post "A Series of Unfortunate Problems" you
  25. Hi Gang, Yesterday I decided to change my oil on my 16V, no problem, 15 minutes, Mobile1 10/30 , Mobile1 Filter (first time, I know Hemi Dude likes Wixx, not available around me that day) checked under for leaks after and no leaks but I notice a small rounded bolt jammed between the crank pulley and block. I cant ignore that, tried to push it out with screw driver, vise grips and a hammer, no go. I wind up loosening the belts and taking the pulley off . Little bolt was similar to the ones that hold the spark plug wire guides on the valve cover. Power steering belt looked a lit
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