Daniell68

In this area all you can get is E10 for several years. I don't think the fuel is the problem, but if it is what other choice do you have? I have been working on a model A with a no start when hot problem. I thought carb was vapor locking so I made a 5/16 thick gasket and a heat shield for the carb now the carb runs cooler but I still have same problem. Maybe this Idea will help yours. Good Luck Daniel

Thanks for all your help on the over heating The owner decided to try just driving it at lower speed where it is not over heating and enjoy putting around town. On the other car that doesn't start when it is hot it does have spark and cranks fine. Did these cars have trouble getting the carburator too hot and the fuel boiling out? Daniel

After more testing on the over heating I found that if I drive it at 40 to 45 mph it blows the water out to low enough level that it over heats in about 2 miles. Filled it up and drove about 8 miles at 30 to 35 and never blow out a drop and ran cool(a fun drive too). Have been advised to grind 1/3 of fins off water pump so it will not over fill top tank of radiator and pump water out. What do you all think? I was thinking that a new radiator might flow a little better and fix the problem . Thanks Daniel

Thanks, checked all that and seems ok , unsure about radiator thinking of sending it to a radiator shop for cleaning. The one that doesn't start cranks ok, but I didn't get a chance to see if it had spark. Will try to keep you posted. Daniel

Hi all! I work at a GM dealer and don't know much about Model A Fords, but for some reason I agreed to work on a couple of them. Both of them are over heating and I don't know why. One of them will not restart when it is warmed up. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks Daniel

Someone has way too much time on their hands!! Isn't it a shame they waisted a good bike. LOL

In my experiance nothing is instant. pb blaster works ok but I have had better luck with GM heat riser lube/penetrent. Should be avaible at a GM dealer. It is still kind of smelly, but does a good job. Good luck! Daniel

Yes I did measure the caster, but I am not sure how accurate the actual measurement is. but both side are the same. Maybe I can sneek it into work some day and do a good alignment. thanks for the help Daniel

I don't know if you have found any parts yet but I seen a hole transmission on e-bay item # 110196000351. Good luck Daniel

I set the toe-in to 1/16th inch and drove it and it was a little better but still shaking. I tightend up the steering gear box and drove it and it is a little better. It now drives good enought that I found out that my speedometer doesn't read over thirty. At a good road speed it still shakes but not as violently, I think I can live with it like it is. I may tinker with it a little more. thanks for the help it made my car a lot more fun!!! I've done hundreds of alignments on modern cars in the last 18 years and have never had toe-in of that small amount make a steering problem that you could feel. Why is this car so critical, is it the narrow tires or is there some different geometry in the steering, or something else?

Well I checked my alignment and it is very close caster +2.5 degrees, camber +1 , 1/4" toe-in (as acuate as I can check on my unlevel garage floor) I don't think it is far enough out to cause a problem. There is very little play in the king pins, and tie rods but it doesn't look like enough to cause a problem. I'm not sure what I am missing. It does seem to be worse if you hit a bump, like loose parts but I can't see any thing. I hope you have more ideas.

What is the alignment specs for this car?

I haven't got to drive my 29 much but when I have, if I go over 30mph it gets a violent scary wobble in the front end. Is this normal? I've check the steering and suspension and cant find anything loose. Do you have any thoughts?

Hi all Thanks for all your help!! After my 3rd trip into the carb I finaly found my problem. In the main jet there was a small spek of crud that I could not see. I could see light through the jet. It would not come out with cleaner or compressed air. I used a small length of copper bell wire and slid it throug the jet. Then I could see a lot more light through the jet. Now it runs better than it ever has. Thanks again.

Thank for the thought but I have aready done that. It helped a little but it still has to be choked to stay running. Do you have any other ideas.

Hi all I have a 29 pontiac that I have to keep the choke about 3/4 on to keep it running. I have checked the Ignition system and it all looks OK. I have been through the carb and all looks OK. It seems to be hitting on all six. I don't see any obvious vaccum leaks. Any ideas?

sorry I forgot to mention that my marvel carb says "model A" on top but the info on your "V" is close enough to answer my questions Thanks a lot for the help!! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

On a 29 pontiac with a marvel carb is there any mixture adjustment? What does that big knob on the carb do? What does the flapper do that the knob hooks to?

Could anyone take a picture under the visor of a 29 pontiac (or equivient) and post the picture or e-mail it to me? I need to see what the wiper system is suposed to look like. I have no idea. It would be a lot of help. Thanks.

I have a 29 pontiac 2 door sedan but I don't have any wiper motor or arms. I haven't found any info about what it is suposed to have. Can any one tell me what I need to look for or any info on what will work?

thanks for the offer but after I found out what I was looking for I found mine in the box of parts that came with the car.

I have a 1929 pontiac 2dr sedan. What type, if any kind, of air filter should it have?

I reasently bought a 1929 pontiac 2dr sedan. Does any one know what head light bulbs will fit it? What wiper motor and arm will fit this car? I think this is a positive ground car please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.