1929Chrysler
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Posts posted by 1929Chrysler
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Please excuse my ignorance here. Were there areas of the older cars that were assembled in the factory and THEN painted after the fact such as the chasis?
For areas where they were painted before assembly, how was (and is it today) possible to avoid paint chipping?
Dan
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I had mine re-lined from a local truck service shop. Perhaps there is one local in your area.
Dan
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That's why they call it "General Discussion". I'm an American who loves old fasioned American cars. I also love old fasioned Americans who still believe in patriotism!! I'm sorry Mr. Moon, but I really don't care whether the photo was taken in the 20's 40's 70's or 90's. The bottom line is respect for the flag is respect for the flag! My children have learned to respect and honor their country. How many great Americans have made our hobby what it is today? I'll bet you can't name one of those who has disrespected our country.
I sincerely hope that a moderator doesn't remove this post because it isn't "politically correct". God knows we don't want to offend anyone!!
Dan
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I would think that the manufacturers of DOT 5 would have been sued by now from someone for brake failure due to using it in a non compatible system. Attorneys I am sure would have warnings plastered all over the bottle if this was the case.
My bottle's warning says: Do not use on anti-lock braking systems. DOT 5 brake fluid should not be used in brake systems containing Dot 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid may be used in brake systems previously factory filled with DOT 5 Silicone Brake Fluid, "OR" in rebuilt/replaced brake systems.
I would think there would be warnings on the bottle of the DOT 5 not being compatible with certain rubber seals.
I wonder if even after a sytem with DOT 3 is completely flushed out and Dot 5 introduced, small amounts of the 3 still in the system (unknown to the car owner) combine with the 5 and the two fluids chemically react to swell/eat the rubber? The small, tiny amount of 3 would not be enough to form the nasty gel but would be enough to create problems with the seals. Just a theory, but what do I know!
In any case, after looking closer at the seal that is torn, it sits next too a steel washer inside the system. This steel washer has a rough sharp burr that matches the pattern on the rubber washer so I think I have found what caused the failure. Other than that the seals don't look swollen and pretty much still look brand new.
I have no idea how to download pictures from my camera to the computer so when my wife helps me with this, I promise I will show the pictures.
Dan
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Just disassembled the MC. One of the seals has a tear in it. As soon as I can figure out how to post pictures I will show everyone.
Dave, I'm certainly not going to argue with you between DOT 3 and 5. I am by no means an expert in the auto field and I can gaurantee you probably know 100 times more than I do about cars than I do. I am the type of guy who has to be shown hard scientific facts as to why something doesn't work. So far I have only heard theories. And believe me... I'm not saying you are wrong in your analysis. I am just questioning specifically what is the exact reason, if there is one (ie: tolerances, rubber swell, viscosity...)as to why DOT 5 won't work in a vintage car. Why does it work for some guys with absolutly no problems while others stuggle? Doesn't Harley's systems have seals in them too? If their sytems were designed for DOT 5, what is so different?
You are probably right when you say 5 can't disburse moisture like 3 can but if I change the 5 every couple of years I will surely get rid of any moisture that may be in the system. I really like the fact that the 5 will not ruin my paint and for that reason I am really hoping I can get this to work. If seals start tearing on me repeatedly, then I may start to believe that the DOT 5 has something to do with it.
Just for the record.. My brake system when rebuilt was a virgin system. It has never seen DOT 3 so there is no question of cross contamination.
Dan
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Dave, You make an excellent point on the Harley Davison systems. It's my understanding they are all Dot 5 and they have it down pat with no problems. I have a buddy who has a '29 model 65 Chrysler just like mine and he too has been using silicone for years with no problems. I just wish someone could point to a common denominator with what the specific issue is with DOT 5 if there is one. In any case I don't even know if it is a silicone problem until I tear the master down.
I'll let you know soon.
Dan
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James, Do you have Phil Bray's contact info you could share with us? Thanks.
Dan
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I did much research on the silicone before I decided to go with it. One of the reasons I did is because it does not harm paint and that is important when a chasis and fire wall and brake can resevoir are painted pretty. The other reason is that it does not absorb moisture like the dot 3 and given the fact that my car is driven maybe 200 miles a year, I did not want corrosion to start taking it's affect with the dot 3 on my system.
Now, for every 3 guys I have heard who have had problems with silicone and curse it, there are 10 guys who swear buy it. These guys have had it in there system for years with thousands of miles with no problems. That's not to say that silicone is gauranteed to be trouble free. The interesting thing with my brake system is that the wheel cylinder seals are bone dry after three years. I bought the seal kit in my master cylinder on e- bay about 5 years ago and may or may not be made from the same rubber type as the wheel cylinders. I have heard two different theories on getting silicone to work properly. The first one is to get seals that are compatible with silicone. Well, my question is HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT IS COMPATIBLE AND WERE DO YOU GET THEM?! The second theory on getting silicone to work properly is to provide the system with a good quality DOT 5. This second theory comes from Apple Hydraulics who resleeved my MC. He says that the majority of his customers who have had problems with Silicone comes from buying the cheaper stuff. He didn't give any recommendations for a brand name to use. Does any one have any recommendations out there??
I will report back to you on what I find once I disassemble the MC. At this point I am not giving up on the silicone just yet. Thanks again for all your help and input.
Dan
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Quick update: I was getting no pressure to the wheel cylinders so I removed the main brake line coming out of the master cylinder and installed a bolt in it's place to peform a test. With the bolt in place I pressed the pedal and there was no resistence, so it appears the problem is with the seals in the MC. Any ideas where to get new seals?? Remember, it has already been re-sleeved.
Yes, I am using DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.
Dan
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Quick update: I had no pressure going to the wheel cylinders so I removed the main brake line coming out of the master cylinder and installed a bolt in it's place to perform a test. When I pressed on the pedal with the bolt in place there was no resistence so the problem appears to be the seals in the MC. Any ideas where I can find new seals?? Remember, it has already been re-sleeved.
Yes, I am using DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.
Dan
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Quick update: I was getting no pressure to the wheel cylinders so I removed the main brakeline coming out of the master cylinder and installed a bolt in it's place to perform a test. When I pressed the brake pedal there was no resistance. So it appears it is the seals in the MC. Any ideas where to get new seals?? Remeber, it's already been re-sleeved.
Yes, I am using DOT 5 silicone brake fluid.
Dan
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painting a radiator will definetly hinder the heat transfer of the coolant. If nothing has changed since last year ie: timing, then I would look at the radiator. Try back flushing it to get better flow and make sure the thermostat isn't stuck closed. Can you see any coolant flowing through the upper neck?
Dan
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Three years ago I had the entire brake system rebuilt on my '29 Chrysler. This included the master cylinder and wheel cylinders all re-sleeved and new cups installed. Also have new brake lines and pads all the way around. The car has less than 500 miles since the rebuild and when it was new the pedal felt perfect. Late last year I noticed the pedal had to travel a lot farther for the car to stop. This week I notice the pedal goes all the way to the floor and I feel no resitance. I obviously can't drive like this.
I checked all the flare connections and I don't see any obvious leaks. Please help me with this as I am not entirely familiar with this braking system. It does have a brake can resevoir that is mounted to the fire wall and it appears that brake fluid would gravity feed down to the master cylinder when needed?? Is this how the system works? Yes, there is brake fluid in the resevoir.
Thank you very much for your help.
Dan
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Three years ago I had the entire brake system rebuilt on my '29 Chrysler. This included the master cylinder and wheel cylinders all re-sleeved and new cups installed. Also have new brake lines and pads all the way around. The car has less than 500 miles since the rebuild and when it was new the pedal felt perfect. Late last year I noticed the pedal had to travel a lot farther for the car to stop. This week I notice the pedal goes all the way to the floor and I feel no resitance. I obviously can't drive like this.
I checked all the flare connections and I don't see any obvious leaks. Please help me with this as I am not entirely familiar with this braking system. It does have a brake can resevoir that is mounted to the fire wall and it appears that brake fluid would gravity feed down to the master cylinder when needed?? Is this how the system works? Yes, there is brake fluid in the resevoir.
Thank you very much for your help.
Dan
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Three years ago I had the entire brake system rebuilt on my '29 Chrysler. This included the master cylinder and wheel cylinders all re-sleeved and new cups installed. Also have new brake lines and pads all the way around. The car has less than 500 miles since the rebuild and when it was new the pedal felt perfect. Late last year I noticed the pedal had to travel a lot farther for the car to stop. This week I notice the pedal goes all the way to the floor and I feel no resitance. I obviously can't drive like this.
I checked all the flare connections and I don't see any obvious leaks. Please help me with this as I am not entirely familiar with this braking system. It does have a brake can resevoir that is mounted to the fire wall and it appears that brake fluid would gravity feed down to the master cylinder when needed?? Is this how the system works? Yes, there is brake fluid in the resevoir.
Thank you very much for your help.
Dan
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I'm a little late to the discussion, But I'll comment on Keiser31's point earlier when he pointed out that the light switch (clum switch)is hard to find.. I searched for YEARS for a clum switch on my '29 Chrysler. It was very difficult to find one, but FINALLY after years of searching I found one!! Don't you know it, less than a week after I found my new clum switch, i decided to take out the front seat. Under neath was a brand new NOS clum switch still in it's box!!What luck is that?!! Now I have a spare!!
Dan
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Donald G, I and I'm sure everyone would LOVE to see any and ALL photos you have of the C16!!
Thank you in advance!!!
Dan
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Apple Hydraulics re-sleeved mine for about $150 if I'm not mistaken. No problems so far.. Knock on wood!!
Dan
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Not sure what type of steel to use but what I was going to do with mine before I found a set was I was going to have the originals hard chromed and then have them lathed back down to the original specs. Would this be an option for you?
Dan
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Simplyconnected, I should have clarified. I am interested in having some trim re-chromed on my car which is pot metel. There is no coating on my carburetor. I was just using it as an example of the deterioration of pot metal. The Stromberg U2 is famous for cracking at a thin part in the casting and it is blamed on the aging pot metal and the constant expanding and contracting of the heat next to the manifold. There is an outfit in Australia who sells re-cast U2's out of, you guessed it...Cast aluminum. They ONLY go for about $1,200 the last time I checked!!
Dan
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Perhaps I was misinformed about pot metal. It was explained to me that it is composed mostly of zinc and other metals such as tin, lead, copper, etc. with no specifice percentage of each. It is a fast and inexpensive method to make castings. I have several old U2 carburetors that are made from pot metal that are no good because they are all cracked. Some old U2 carburetors that are pot metal have survived the deterioration. When I asked why, it was explained that since there is no specific recipe for pot metal (percentage of each metal) they are basically mixed into the "pot". What probably happened to the carb that survived is that it had a higher content of a more stable metal when it was originally mixed in the pot. The bad experiances I have had with pot metal has left a bad taste in my mouth which is why I refered to it as garbage.
On a different question regarding plating.. Will copper plated steel stop rust and corrosion such as on water jacket covers?
Thanks
Dan
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I've noticed a lot of questions recently about chrome plating but none of the answers I've read have answered my questions, so here it goes.. It's my understanding that pot metal is a mixture of garbage metals to form an alloy that eventually deteriates over time?? Is this correct? Secondly, from what I have read, the part that is made of pot metal is stripped bare of any old chrome, plated in copper, soldered to mend any stress cracks, plated in copper again, then nickel plated and then finally chrome plated to where it looks perfect. So my question is when the process described above is done to a piece of pot metal, does this copper plating and soldering permanently halt the deteriation of the pot metal piece or is it inevitable that given a good number of years the same deteriation will happen to the same piece again?
Is there anything that can be done to stop pot metal deteriation or is it just the nature of the material?
Thanks in advance
Dan
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Thanks guys.. I'm not familiar with the model A partial frame but mine is a full wood skeletal body. After taking a closer look at the door alignement problem, I see that the screws are coming out of the hinges that are connected to the rear door. What maybe appears to be a bigger problem however is the front hinge pillar is loose from the main side sill. It looks like it could be a mortise and tenon joint. Hard to tell if it's rotted or not. I don't have all the interior removed yet so I can't inspect it as thoroughly as I would like. If it is rotted, how do I repair this joint and make it stable enough for me to be able to remove the body?
Thanks again
Dan
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this ia a great question PWN as I am eventually going to do the same to my car. A lot of my questions have already been answered by reading what I see here but if I could add a few more questions about the process I sure would apreciate the help!
Some parts of the wood are rotted and deteriated. As mentioned in the responses, I will try to stabilize the body as much as possible before removing from the frame. However, I'm sure that there is rotted wood that is not accesable due to the steel skin in the way. I would like to remove the steel skin so that I could either replace rotted wood or repair with qwik-poly. I have a parts car that I am experimenting on before I attempt the real deal and getting the skin off of one of the pillars seems to be quite a project!! Any comments or concerns about removing the skin?
The other question I have is that the door alignement concerns me a bit here. On the one side of the car the two doors are aligned perfectly (4 door sedan) On the driver side,
the doors seem to be farther apart and the panel on the back door sticks out a little at the bottom. Should I correct this alignement before I remove the body and if so how?!
Thanks for your help
Dan
1910 Paint Schemes
in Maxwell
Posted
Personaly, I think you are going about everything backwards. You should worry about getting the car mechanically sound before worring about painting parts. For all you know you could have a cracked block and by the time you find that out you may have spent a ton of $$$ on the asthetics part of it.
With my car, I had all of the mechanicals rebuilt. The engine, tranny, rear end, springs, shock absorbers, EVERYTHING.My car is in perfect running condition. Now comes the fun part of removing the body, painting the frame and of course the rest of the car.
It seems as though you are trying to build a house but are more worried about the color of the walls and type of curtains you are going to use before you even have the foundation built. Just my opinion.
Dan