1929Chrysler
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Posts posted by 1929Chrysler
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Never mind the all steel '59 Chevy..I can't even imagine what a head on collision with a modern car would look like hitting a car like mine ('29 Chrysler) with a wooden frame?!! Staged or not, it's safe to say there would be no survival. Makes you really think.
Dan
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Dave, I have the series 65 also. I believe I bought mine from Andy Bernbaum f I'm not mistaken,
Dan
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When I mentioned 10,000 lbs,/psi, I was talking about MAXIMUM burst pressure. NORMAL operating pressure would be 1/4 to 1/5 that pressure. So about 2,000 to 2,500 would be about normal operating pressures.
I'm confused about e-mails and responses received from other parties. Can you post them for all to see?
As I mentioned before, The Ford people apparently have steel brake lines that are copper plated to look just like the original.
Dan
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I wonder what these one of a kinds would be worth today if they had survived??!!
Dan
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Every tubing has a maximum burst pressure depending on what it was designed to be used for. If my memory serves me correctly, brake tubing has a burst pressure of about 10,000 lbs/p.s.i. Every day copper tubing made for typical household plumbing is NOT designed for the pressures of an automobile's brake system and SHOULD NOT be used.
I am not familiar with the copper alloys used way back in the day to make the brake lines but I'm sure they were not nearly as strong as the brake lines manufactured today. You won't find brake lines made from copper today. The product I believe 1930 is referring to is called "Cunifer" and is available thru Fedhill. It is a European made brake line that is similar in appearance to copper but somewhat lighter.
I installed it on my 1929 Chrysler because I was going for the original look of copper while having the safety standards of today. After I installed it, someone told me the antique Ford people have a copper plated steel brake line to look just like the original. For safety and originality, that is probably the way to go.
If you have original copper lines, do yourself a favor and replace them. Joe Cozza, sounds like you have gotten lucky thru out the years but you are pressing your luck when pressing that brake pedal. If you value your life as well as others, please replace them.
Dan
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Was there some type of perfected method they had in assembling these bodies in line in the factory? Seems like aligning these bodies today is a HUGE deal. However, the thousands and thousands of cars produced way back in the day seemed to have gone together fairly nicely with near perfect alignment. Am I missing something?
Dan
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Personally Dean, if it was me on labor day in a newly restored Hupp and I saw a cop wanting to pull me over... I would have floored it!!! But that's just me! Great job my man!
Dan
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I had same exact problem with mine. Sometimes it would run and sometimes it wouldn't. Checked vacuum going to the canister and it was fine After pulling my hair out I disassembled unit and found small debri got sucked from gas tank and became lodged in the orfice before it dropped into fuel bowl at the outlet of the vacuum canister. When the engine stalled or was shut off the sucking force at the orfice outlet would subside letting go of the debri allowing it to float upward. This explained why the car would start up again and run for awhile until the debri got sucked right back down to the outlet thus cutting off the fuel supply.
Has run flawlessly ever since I cleaned unit and installed inline fuel filter after gas tank.
Dan
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Yes West.. As you point out, I did intend for the list to be only US museums but if it sparks interest for people to view other museums from around the world then so be it. Can you tell us about this story for the Car Collector magazine in which you talk about North American museums? Is this a report you are still working on or has it already bean published? What is the magazine?
Hinkley.. Your museum you mention in Minden, Nebraska sounds REALLY interesting! To view cars acquired in the 50's that have not been restored would indeed be a time capsule!! I have often fantasied about some one uncovering a crypt or a buried building with cars that included especially mine (1929 Chrysler) where they have never been touched since they rolled off the assembly line. What a history lesson on authenticity that would be! Tell me that's not better than sex!! We should start a new thread on that if it has ever happened!
Dan
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I obviously don't have the driving experience as Tinindian either but looking at this from a common sense perspective, I would look at it from this point of view. You obviously care very deeply about your car as do most of us on this forum. We are all interested in preserving these beauties for the long haul. I think where the theory of not lubing may have come into play are the people back in the day who did not care about proper and regular maintenance. These are the ones who neglected their rides as do many current auto owners of todays cars.
If you plan on neglecting your precious vintage vehicle then maybe lubing may create the wearing paste you refer to. If you plan on paying attention to maintenance which I think you will, then lubing in the way others have previously suggested is the way to go.
Just my opinion.
Dan
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I agree with Dave. Is there any movement in the spokes? If not don't worry about it. Wire wheels are very expensive if you are lucky enough to find the originals.
Dan
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West, have you been to all 5? You get around if you have!!
Dan
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I just finished reading all the posts on West Peterson's thread of the Cleveland Crawford museum and it has sparked my interest. I have lived in Cleveland all my life and have only been to the museum once when I was a kid. After reading the posts, I definitely plan on making a trip soon.
With that said, Can people out there give their personal top 5 picks (or whatever you have visited) in order with obviously #1 being the best?
Thanks
Dan
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I would think that using an epoxy sealer would limit the natural expansion and contraction of the wood since it soaks in and physically becomes one with the wood. We have to remember that these spokes are probably not going to be subjected to the harsh weather conditions of yesteryear and that might be a bit of over kill. I have used spar varnish with great success. Just my opinion..
Dan
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Jan or any one else who have rebuilt these frames.. I and I'm sure others would love to see pictures of your work on these projects.
Thanks in advance.
Dan
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Are there any books, literature or any information out there that could guide the novice on how to properly re-wood a car?
Dan
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Dave, you mention the model 65 series shared the body with Plymouth and Desoto. I was unaware of this. Are you saying that the 65 bodies are identical to specific models with Plymouth and Desoto? Which models?
Thanks
Dan
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Keiser31... I'm curios. Does the 1914 not have split rims?? If not, how does this old Weaver tire machine work??
Dan
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When replacing wood on these cars, what is the best type to use??
Dan
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Steve, I need to do the same exact thing to my car. I would LOVE to see pictures and follow your progress!
Dan
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Ask them if you can come in and tour their production facility. They will more than likely give you the brush off if they don't produce them. Like Restorer32 says, there are a lot of US companies that CLAIM to produce these cores but in fact get them from overseas and put the mark up on them.
In all my research before having my core reproduced, I could not find a US company that made these cores even though you will find them advertised everywhere. It is my understanding that most of the dies were destroyed after the market no longer was in need of these radiators. The very few that remained ended up in England where most are manufactured today.
Gerry from Universal Carnegie Manufacturing in Pittsburg told me in October of 2008 that he was close to obtaining the dies and equipment needed to reproduce these cores. However, I don't think the pricing will come down all that much because he knows that he will have the market cornered in the US.
Dan
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No company in the US has the equipment to reproduce the core you are looking for including the Filling Station. All US companies buy direct from overseas and sell them to you for a marked up price. There are three companies that I know of who make the cores. Two are in England and the other in Australia.
I bought mine direct from the Vintage Car Radiator Co. www.vintagecarradiatorcompany.co.uk. The core alone (which was an odd iregular shape) was $1300.
If money is an issue, you can have a modern core made for a lot less money and have a slice of the old radiator put in front of the new to make it look original. Universal Carnegie Manufacturing can make the new core, slice the old rad for the false front and rebuild the unit for you. They do a good job.
There is also a retired gentleman in Chilicothe Ill. who is well known for his skill in rebuilding old radiators. His name is Bill Lemaster and has endless knowledge of the antique radiator. He was contacted by the Smithsonian in D.C. to fabricate a radiator for one of their airplanes and it is my understanding the unit came out perfect. His number is 309-645-0606
Dan
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why not take some scrap wood and build a cheap one in less than an hour or just bite the bullet and pay someone to sandblast them?
Dan
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Dean, You mention you have an upholstery book.. What is the name of it and how helpful has it been to you?
Thanks
Dan
29 chrysler 65 needs rings
in Chrysler Products - General
Posted
Hi Harry.. Had the same problem with my model 65.. I used 1941 Plymouth pistons which are identical in size to the model 65 with the exception of where the connecting rod meets the piston. With minor machining, you will be back in business.
I have had several conversations with you in the past. I am the one in Cleveland who sent you the door handle and you sent me the robe rail hardware. How have you been? Please post pictures of your beautiful car!
Dan