Brian_Heil
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Posts posted by Brian_Heil
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A lifter bore center can also be slightly off center to the lobe center line to cause lifter rotation with both the lobe and lifter faces being flat. I'm not certain which (the above convex method or flat) Buick was using back then. Perhaps someone here knows.
Measure. Are all the intake lobes identical? All the exhaust lobes identical? Measure all lifter faces. Flat? Convex? Same?
Welcome to every engine rebuilder's dilemma. What caused the isolated issue? Are the others (whatever, you pick. Valve, lobe, lifter, spring, bearing ...) ready to fail next or not and if not what caused the issue found?
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Word to the wise on cam re-grinding
If there is a case hardening done, as there often is, to the lobes when new. You need to make certain you have a similar case hardening hardness and depth of hardness after the re-grind.
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Where will tow rig and trailer parking be located?
Thx!
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2 hours ago, Bloo said:
When you hear the word "circuit" think "circle".
There is nothing magic about a ground. The word "return" is occasionally used in electronics, and it makes a little more sense. The electrical current has to get back to whatever provided it, in this case the battery. If the current came from the battery, the only "ground" that does any good is the one on the battery itself. Think of the body or frame as a piece of wire leading back to the battery "ground" post. If you disconnect one post, the battery cannot do anything. It doesn't matter so much which one.
"Always disconnect the negative first" is from more recent times and assumes a negative ground car. There is a reason. As you are disconnecting the battery you are surrounded by metal parts that are "grounded" to the battery. If you are on the positive post with your wrench, and you slip, you'll get sparks, maybe fire, explosion, etc. If you are on the negative post with the wrench (still talking about a negative ground car), nothing will happen. Then when you disconnect the positive, the battery cannot do anything, because it already has it's other post disconnected. You would have to get your wrench between the posts to cause a spark.
Exactly as I was taught.
Watched a new guy melt a box wrench doing just this on the positive battery post nut when it swung and contacted the grounded frame. That wrench was as orange as a carrot.
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21,845 domestic
4,294 export
per Seventy Years of Buick
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3 hours ago, 95Cardinal said:
It will be great to have more brass and nickel cars this year.
Will we be driving in together on Saginaw?
Not sure everyone wants to arrive before 6:00 am in order to parade in on Saginaw Street. The good news is we will have reserved parking in the plaza lot next to Factory One. So arrive at your leisure and parade down Water Street to your reserved parking space.
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Check out the discussion on this topic at the link to the main post above. Just click on the main body of the picture.
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Looks like it could be the Tyska Buick.
We are overdue to have an excuse to gather the early Buicks. The Buicks on the Bricks has its own dedicated area on Water Street with lots to offer as noted in the link at the top of this thread. Our early Buicks will have a special dedicated parking area. Letting us know you are coming will secure you a space there.
Should anyone have a question, please don’t hesitate to PM me or ask it here so others can see the question and answer.
Trailer parking for out of town guests can often be a headache or concern at a hotel. We have made arrangements for secure trailer parking offsite. This will also enable you to do more and stay longer.
Come early and make it a multi day vacation by also visiting the GM Heritage Center, the Henry Ford, The Gilmore, Stahl’s, Frankenmuth and the Olds Museum to name a few. All within driving distance for a day trip to each. Some will agree the Henry Ford takes two to do it justice.
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I saw a 1923 Buick ‘Frankenstein’ with a modern Ford rear axle under it. The thing I remember is the axle lined up with the stock Buick rear spring perches.
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BCA Membership is not a requirement to participate in this free event.
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Just click on the pic to go to the main post.
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The 2024 featured Buicks will be Brass and Nickel era Buicks with several not often seen early Buicks brought out of storage by the GM Heritage Center and the Sloan Museum. Special early Buick history presentation by GM Historian Kevin Kirbitz and, Special Guest Speaker Bill McLaughlin of 1929 Buick and McLaughlin Buick fame will also give a presentation.
Here's a great excuse to bring your early Buick to this event, have special marquee parking and enjoy great Buick hospitality!
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16 hours ago, David Zitzmann said:
It isn't the size of the engine. It is the current draw from the starter. If everything is brady new with proper gauge wire and clean I don't see there being a problem, but over time with dirty, lose, connections that causes resistance which equals heat and unhappy car owner. Just my opinion:-)
I respectfully disagree.
Number of cylinders, compression ratio and the displacement of that ratio are directly proportional to current draw of the starter.
Pull the rope on a lawn mower and then hand crank a high compression Cadillac V8 (if you could).
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20 hours ago, David Zitzmann said:
And the knife ones too. I saw a 68 caddy smoking from one of those it got so hot. I only use the heavy duty ones like others have mentioned.
A '68 Caddy would have a 472 cu in and 10.25:1 compression. My '23 Buick is ~half of both of those and two cylinders less. My knife switch has never gotten hot. Maybe by Buick starts quicker too?
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I'm cheap Less than $10 on Amazon
Has worked great for years
Do not use the ones with the twist knob on them. I have seen several older cars that would crank but not start because the voltage drop across the knob style cut offs was so great. I didn't believe it at first until the guy removed it and it solved all his starting problems. Reinstalled and they returned.
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Easy does it when torquing down that flange. Many a Buick out there with the cast ear(s) on the cast exhaust manifold snapped off.
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First I’ve ever seen these
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The link does not work every time. If you go to FB Marketplace and search for 1922 Buick Radiator the post does pop up.
Still for sale as of Tuesday morning Jan 9.
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Not mine but looks good.
📸 Look at this post on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/share/Q9SPwEsCfdj8XDVH/?mibextid=79PoIi
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Ah, the Marvel Drip. Why Buick even designed a catch trough and steel flex hose below the Marvel to catch the fuel and keep it off the hot exhaust take down pipe. At least 1923s have that.
The issue in my case was bad gaskets on the bottom of the Marvel. See the pics that are upside down from how it mounts in the car but you can see the bad gasket joints (2) and the banjo too. Then I show it apart.
I have found over the years it takes about an hour of sitting hot before enough fuel has departed where I get extended cranking. Now with things better sealed I can go all afternoon. Keeps you looking good at lunch and ice cream stops on tour where you hate to let the other guys see you raise the bonnet for any reason.
The comment from Ed that he liked that Buick 6 he sold made me smile.
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I saw a restorer slide a fiberglass rod (used to mark your driveway for the snow plow) down a hem seam. Light, sturdy, no rust or rot. Worked like a charm to fix an issue and only a couple of dollars.
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Not certain about 1925 but on a 1923 six cylinder the output of the trans is designed to weep trans lube. This is what lubes the universal joint within the ball and flex boot.
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And if in 1925 they are still using the large double row ball bearing like in 1923 on the rear wheels, this bearing is a standard size, widely used today and still available. Metric even back then. Order it in the sealed version and never worry about lubing it.
Also buy it online from a bearing house for a third of what the old bearing people will try to sell them to you for.
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Fuel air ratio 1932 series 90.
in Buick - Pre War
Posted
Dean Tryon did an in depth air/fuel study on early Buicks.