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Posts posted by bhclark
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Nice looking car Tom.
Now I know what you were referring to on the 59-buick site!
I assume it is a '72?
Very interesting color!
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I drive my '65 wildcat as much as possible during the summer just to be able to drive around with the top down!
I also take the '59 Invicta out regularly and enjoy driving it to work.
My wife takes the '66 Galaxie to the grocery store and to shuttle the kids around!
I buy them to drive them and enjoy everything except for the gas station visits!!!!
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Gee, I must have been really tired when I read this, as I inquired as to what kind of automobiles she had.
Here's the list of magazines.
Ok. I will list all the issues I have of Antique Automobile. All are in great shape, no rips or tears no bending of book etc.
Jan/Feb 1987 Vol 51, No. 1 Pic on the front is 1906 Flat Contents: The Governon Pinchot Studebaker, AACA Western Div National Fall Meet, Georges Truck Stop Part 16, AACA Eastern Div Spec Nat Fall Meet, other "normal" items like News and Events, Book Review, etc.
Mar/April 1987 Vol 51 No. 2 Contents: Brass Tacks, Ford Facts etc. Picture on front is of 1926 Rickenbacker.
May/June 1987 Vol 51 No. 3 Pic on front is 1940 La Salle Molde 52 Coupe. Contents: Indian Summer all the time etc.
July/August 1987 Vol 51 No 4 Pic on front is 1931 Ford Victoria
Sept/Oct 1987 Vol 51 No. 5 (at my office so I have to email that info on Monday)
Nov/Dec 1986 Vol 51 No. 6 Pic on front Xmast and OUr Rambler 1908 Model 34
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I looked on their website and only saw the '38. I'll give them a call on Monday.
thanks!
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I remember driving grandpa's '65 wildcat starting when I was about 12. By the time I was 14 I was driving it on the roads regularly. I'm sure that contributed to my fascination with the car and my desire to inherit it as well as owning the one I do now.
As far as insurance, 21st Century has recently branched out to several states from CA and offer terrific rates in an attempt to grab market share. While they do not offer "collector" car insurance, those of us with a driving histor that prevents us from getting ins. from the specialty companies can benefit at least from the liability portions.
My policy is 100 percent 100/300 covered liability and comprehensive with 0 deductibles and towing for only $65 per car per 6 months. Cheap insurance considering if I do hit something I'm likely to destroy it! (and no, I don't count on the comprehensive froma regular insurance company to fully compensate me should something happen)
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I find it interesting that there has been no mention of immitation lead addtives in this discussion. My engine was recently rebuilt without hardened valve seats and my mechanic specified that I should use premium and a lead additive.
I have been doing so, typically using a bottle of Gunk Lead Additive anytime I give here a complete fill up and skipping it if I'm just topping off.
I have been tempted to use the cheaper CD2 lead additive(listed on the bottle I believe "not for automotive use") I figured that was for emissions purposes moreso that the health of the vehicle though.
I plan on trying a lower grade fuel shortly, but am I correct that I should still use the lead additive to "protect" the valve seats?
Also, aren't there concerns about the ethanol damaging older rubber seals in engines that haven't been updated?
Does anyone know of a chain that still uses 100% gasoline or have the corn farmers lobbied to get that eliminated? (I used to have a Texaco station close by that advertised 100%, but they have closed in favor of a BP superstation)
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Question. I was attempting to check the brakes all around on the Galaxie and could not remove the rear drums.
Do they require a puller? I don't have one that's 15 inches!
I haven't been able to find a shop manual yet, so any help would be appreciated!
If anyone has a spare '66 Ford Galaxie shop manual, I'd be interested.
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Uh, Lamar, it's a '67, not a '54! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />
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I did the same thing, but unfotunately mine is a project. An all the time project, being a Triumph Spitfire4.
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So, did you buy the HD?
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Then there is always "Ran When Parked". That one is susually not even true, otherwise why would it have been parked?
Runs and drives. Yeah, but does it stop?
No Rust. But plenty of bondo!
Must see to appreciate. Yeah, I can appreciate a pile of crap as well as the next guy!
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I've had good luck with the power steering leak stop fluid. I had a pretty bad leak and spent a few months topping off with the leak stop additive and the leak is all but gone now.
It sure beats pulling that pump off and replacing the seal.
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Sharp car!
The car is probably a 90 then, build date was 4/90, so I thought it might be an early '91 model.
I'll attach a pic of the rear damage when I get to my other computer.
The thing that struck me odd was how solid the interior was after 145000 miles? Are these cars known for durability of the interior materials or can I attribute that to someone taking really good care of the car over the years?
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I use Wix filters exclusively as well.
I have also been able to find them locally, but always at the smaller shops, KOI, Smyth, Savage, Carquest, etc.
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I just ran across a '91 Reatta Coupe with 145000 miles on it. The leather interior looks brand new and the body seems rust free with what appears to be the original paint. Top side of the engine looks great, but there is quite a bit of fluid on the tranny and oil pan.
I'm not familiar with the Reatta, but am intrigued by this one. It does look like someone backed into a tree or post with it. the bumper isn't dented but the plastic trim around the third brake light is cracked real good.
i'm confused on the valuation as NADA lists it as being worth roughly $3000-$4500, but Edmunds says $1500?
When I take it out for a test drive, what should I look for and where are the trouble spots?
Thanks!
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Thanks for the Luan idea! I just bought a couple sheets to use for my door panels on my '40 special and the '65 spitfire.
it's just about the same thickness as the original material and much more durable!
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i've read elsewhere to charge the battery to 7.5 volts, but my battery tender charged mine to 6.37. That, combined with 00 gauge battery cables filed points and fresh plugs did the trick!
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I can't even fill my '65 Wildcat up to the first click. It overflows EVERY time I fill her up.
Any clues as to why,or is it just that the filler neck is so short by the time the pump detects the gas backing up it's too late?
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I got my '40 started today for the first time since I bought it.
My secret to success was:
-Plenty of power (00 gauge battery cables to make sure I was getting full use of the 6 volts)
-brand spanking new spark plugs. (old ones weren't worn but they were wet and carbon fouled)
-I filled a spray bottle with gasoline and lightly misted the carb while pulling on the starter.
After a few tries, i was able to keep her idling by slowly misting the carb with the gas. (watch those eyebrows!!!!)
This won't tell you if you have a fuel pump issue, but it might help get her started.
Other than that, time could be off significantly or the coil could be bad based on waht you've already done.
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1963 Electra Convertible with bucket seats
in Buick - General
Posted
I've purchased a car from Frankman motors before. I have been happy with my purchase, although they were a little less than forthcoming with the car shortcomings and details.
I watch their Ebay auctions all the time and their prices start out extremely high and come down as the auctions fail.
Bottom line is you should be able to negotiate with them, especially if the car has been in their inventory for a while.
I sure would like to have a line on where they come up with some of the fine automobiles they auction off though, if they are getting them that cheap.