bigdaddykarl

I see... That makes sense. As I rewired my transmission, I noticed that the color was very hard to distinguish, as the wire was quite deteriorated, but there was a distinct pattern or stripe on each wire. In my schematic, the backup light circuit notes that the wire is black/white, whereas most of the other wires are denoted "red" or "green", with no distinction of the patterning (as I understand, to signify gauge) on each wire.

This may seem like a silly question, but would a 12V light work? Might be a little dim?

Thank you, Brian. I have a diagram from my manual, and it is pretty concise as far as wire color, hence my question of where to find striped wire.. 14ga seems to be playing it pretty safe, that's some good size wire. What should I use for the headlights? Also, will there be any problem down the road should I decide to switch over to 12-volt? Not that I've made up my mind to do that or anything...kinda like it original. Just wish I could play CDs... And BvR, I'd love to go hogwild with RI wiring, I'm afraid all of my other hobbies have drained my wallet! Cars, motorcycles, and photography... doesn't leave much left! Perhaps someday, I can replace all my home-made wiring with the proper stuff. I plan on having the car for a long time, and eventually, pass it down to my kids or grandkids... when the time comes.

What is the correct wire gauge for the taillight and reverse light circuits? I was so successful with my transmission wire harness that I'm going to do the taillights next. They're a little dim and slow, and there's a full short somewhere in the reverse light circuit, so I'm just going to redo them all. Also, does anyone have a good source for striped wire? If I recall correctly, the reverse lights use a black and white (or was it black and yellow) striped wire. My Ace hardware only has solid color. Fine wire, a lot better than the crap they sell at HD, but no stripes. Thanks.

Jon, I seem to remember the kerosene trick referring to the fluid drive coupling in past posts, is this incorrect? I plan on changing out the fluid coupling fluid in my Windsor when I get home, (kind of difficult to work on a car while I'm in China) and was going to flush it with kerosene first. Should I avoid this? Is this method only for the gearbox? I changed my gearbox fluid out (it was extremely low and causing the car to fall out of gear) with 30W ND oil, and now it is terrific. Living in Southern California makes the 30W just fine, as it rarely dips below 50F. In fact, I have noticed NO difference between the way it shifted before on the original fluid as now with the 30W. I was worried at first, as I couldn't find any retailer who carried 10W ND, and everyone looked at me funny when I requested it. But the 30W has been terrific. -Karl

Perhaps this might work better...

Thank you for the source, I'll be in touch with them. You're right, pictures always help, so here they are:

I'm looking for another carburetor for my 51 Windsor (w/ Fluid Matic Drive) and I would like an exact duplicate. What numbers do I need off of the thing? Where might I start my search? I would like to have one to rebuild while the one I have stays on the car, and when I'm done with my rebuild, swap them out and rebuild the original. Eventually, I'd like to run a dual-carb setup with the matched pair. With the dual setup, do I run the kickdown and the anti-stall circuit to both carbs or just one? Any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

I did change the transmission oil, and it NEEDED it. Quite sludg-y and burnt. I parked the car on a banked decline, putting the drainplug at the southern-most point of the transmission to get as much of the fluid out as possible, then refilled with 30W ND. Then I parked the car on flat ground and added fluid until it was level with the fill opening. Worked like a charm. Next up is the Fluid Drive unit, followed by the rear end. What fluid is recommended for the rear end? I don't have my manual handy, and even if I did, I'm quite sure it will state some product that is no longer in production.

This is good info. My drums work great, but as much as I like to get my car out, discs would be nice. It seems that all the drivers of Escalades and Excursions around here think they belong on a race track - makes for white-knuckle rides sometimes. Everybody is late for soccer practice...

I have good news: the problem is solved. Somewhere along the line, I was distracted into thinking that my problem was in the Fluid Coupling, perhaps because everything I read in my service manual and the resources I downloaded from the Imperial Club pointed me in that direction. Then I thought about electrical problems, since everything began when I jumped the car via 12-volt. The REAL culprit? Low on transmission fluid. That's it. Real simple. Runs like a champ now. And not only does she run and shift smooth, she's got a brand new wiring harness for the tranny. Despite that not being the present problem, it would have been in the near future. I had an idea, and perhaps y'all could point me in the right direction, I was considering donating my old wiring harness to one of the harness companies so that they could dissect it and replicate one for their product line. Who would you suggest? Does one company cater more to their customers than the other? I like to reward those who go out of their way to help others...

Guy, The car is definitely falling out of gear, and though now it may sound like I've been barking up the wrong tree, I feel it's a good idea anyway to flush and refill the FD unit. But onto what sounds to be more likely the gremlin, the gearbox. 10W ND oil, drain and refill. Then onto the solenoid, what can I do to check that to make sure it is operating correctly? How is is affixed to the gearbox? Does it just screw into the side of the tranny? Thanks so much. I'm learning a tremendous amount. -Karl

Thank you, Baron, this is great info. I checked the fluid in the FD unit several weeks ago, and it was full, to my surprise. This is what redirected me into thinking that my problem was electrical rather than due to low fluid level. However, this fluid is almost certainly the original fluid in the car, as I know my father has never done anything with it in the 35 years he owned it, and my great-grandfather most likely never changed it while he owned it, not with only 40,000 miles. Might this fluid be not doing it's job properly causing my slip? Where might I find the fill plug on the transmission? Will that be apparent when I crawl under the car?

This weekend I crafted a new wiring harness for the transmission circuit, but I'm still having the same trouble: slipping out of high gear, and the occasional missed shift. What's my next plan of attack? I'm thinking of a fluid change and perhaps a kerosene bath for the Fluid Drive unit. Question: is the fluid drive separate from the transmission? If so, how does one add fluid to it, I can't seem to find an access panel that would accomodate this...

6 inches doesn't sound like a catastrophe to me, I have one of them nice custom fit covers now, it's just rotting through and needs replacement. I'd like to git 'er done before November when I leave the country for a month, and this seems to be the quickest cheapest option. The custom covers take 2 months to make and cost 2 big bucks. Thanks for the info!

How different were the body dimensions between the windsor and the other models, namely the New Yorker? There's a car cover on eBay for a new yorker and my cover is SHOT. I'm having difficulty grasping the need to give California Car Cover Company another $200 for a new one.

Great, thanks for the info. I'll start looking around for a Fulton. As far as the fabricating of new parts goes, I may be able to do some of that myself. What measurements are the most crucial in finding a good fit? I imagine windsheild center to end is really the only biggie. Sounds like if it's too big, I can trim it down in the middle and join the pieces to the center bar.

I'd like to find a good, restorable visor to put on my 51 Windsor, but I'd like to stay as true to era as possible. What are some of the manufacturers of visors that I should look for? I believe Fulton is one. Also, any good places to look? I know there's always eBay, curious if there's a better source. Also, estimation on cost that I should be looking to spend?

I had forgotten that Gyro Gearloose was his name. Thanks for the chuckle. I've heard about the idle factor too, I'll check into that. My poor carburetor needs a good going over anyway. That's a shame though, 'cause she's running so good, I don't want to touch it. It is however showing signs of seepage, as I'm sure all it's seals are rotted. Is the carb on the 51 windsor a Ball and Ball? Is there any more specific classification that it goes by? I'd like to pick up a second carb and rebuild it, and then rebuild the original. Also, what's a good parts source for all the replaceable parts, i.e. seals, fittings, butterflies, jets, and so on?

Great suggestion, I'll try that. I pulled the part off of that breather support bracket, and hooked up my voltmeter to it, and it seems to be passing current, so I'm not sure that it is the culprit to my troubles. The problem is this: I have full use of first gear (in drive range, not low range, though that is fine too). But as I acquire speed, I take my foot off the gas to shift, and sometimes she shifts, and sometime she doesn't. Sometimes, after she has shifted, she'll just silently slip out of gear. I checked my fluid level in my Fluid Drive coupler, and she's full, no doubt with original fluid. I have not checked my transmission fluid level yet, that's my next plan of attack. What sort of fluid are these taking? I know all the talk is to replace fluid in the Fluid Jive (ha ha) unit with tractor fluid, but what about the gearbox itself?

I did use a round wire, I believe it was 16 gauge stranded, with a couple of crimped-on eye connectors and a double layer of shrinkwrap so that it wouldn't ground out anywhere else. I don't think stray sparks in a distributor are a good idea! She's running like a top now. (well, except for my transmission woes) I saw a NOS braided wire up on eBay a few months ago, and if I recall correctly, it went for a hefty sum. And like I said earlier, I have no idea how it worked, but that priming technique (as suggested by someone here on this forum) worked well. The first couple of actions, I had no spark, then the spark gradually grew and became quite strong. That's when I buttoned her up and she's been great ever since.

I just made one with a section of wire and a couple of ends, then shrink-wrapped the whole kit-n-kaboodle.

In my manual, the schematic shows a circuit breaker on the circuit from the ignition system to the transmission solenoid. I think there's a gremlin in there, and I'd like to replace this breaker, but I can't find any stats on it. The book doesn't say anything, and I can't find any markings on the breaker. Does anyone know what amperage it should be, and furthermore, does anyone have a source? Napa can't find any record, nor carries 6V breakers, and the guys at Pep Boys don't know ANYTHING. Thanks in advance. BTW, '51 Chrysler Windsor straight 6.

I just got through this same problem, and what seemed to do it for me was getting the whole system primed. I don't know a lot about electricity, or automotive ignitions, and I'm not sure why this worked, but one of the guys here on the forum suggested I try it, and it worked like a charm. With the key in the on (not start) position, and the distributor cap off, insert a non-conductive item (I used half of a clothespin) between the points and open and close the points several times at a rapid rate. Eventually you will see a spark. Do that a couple more times, button her back up and give it a spin. And that braided wire that everyone is mentioning, change that.

Is there a way to clean the filter without removing the transmission from the car?