bigdaddykarl

I think this decision needs to be addressed from several angles: first, this depends on what sort of car it is. If it is a rare car, then by all means, keep it as original as possible. Second, if you're in this to make money on the car, a nicely built (but expensive) hot rod will bring you more money than a nicely restored original. (Hot-rodded 40 Fords fetch a good $60K when a well-restored original pulls in $30K). Are you going to drive the car or putter around to local shows? Custom cars are often more driveable with a modern drivetrain and brakes. And lastly, what would make you happier? 'Cause really, that's what really matters.

So I went to my local Wal Mart and picked up a bucket of tractor fluid, but I'm glad I never got around to pouring it in. After reading all the recent posts on tractor fluid, it sounds like I bought the wrong stuff. Now to go further, I checked the fluid in my Fluid Drive unit, and the level is fine... so why is my car falling out of gear? Could it be due to the little electrical problem I had and I shorted out that circuit breaker when I jumped with a 12-volt car? If so, does anyone have the specs on that breaker and a possible source? Thanks.

I have been browsing the Imperial Club's website, and am finding a wealth of info. A question though, I've found articles on "Fluid-Torque Drive", is this the same system in my 51 Windsor?

To recap: gearbox - use 10W motor oil or 30W ND. Fluid Drive - 10W tractor fluid. I just went to the local autozone, and the guy there looked at me funny when I asked for 10W tractor fluid. He has tractor fluid in the back (where I can't go to read the bucket, of course) but didn't know anything about the viscosity. Is all tractor fluid the same?

Some items might be found at Robert's Motor Parts. robertsmotorparts.com

Thanks, guys, great tips. I'll let you know how I make out.

Now can I top off the transmission with 30W or do I have to drain and replace? I seem to remember a golden rule about not mixing viscosities. Also, is the same true for putting 10W tractor fluid in the fluid drive? Also, what are the capacities for each? Are they difficult to get a funnel and bottle to, or should I be using some sort of pump? I think these aren't addressed in the manual, they're those practical application hints that the book leaves out.

I've been looking everywhere for 10W oil, per suggestion of the orignal service manual for my 51 Chrysler Windsor, and I'm coming up short. 30W is the only single-viscocity oil I can find. What do I do?

Frank, I picked up a manual - actually found an original! I like having a wiring diagram, but finding some of these components is proving difficult. I'm sure there's more info in the book on specifically finding where in the car these things are, but with nearly three inches of pages, it's gotta be there. Once things settle down at work I'll dig in.

Success! I rewired the distributor, disconnected the kickdown circuit, and she fired right up. No I have to figure out how to fix the kickdown...

Success! I rewired the distributor, disconnected the kickdown circuit, and she fired right up. No I have to figure out how to fix the kickdown...

Ok - with that I'm mustering up the courage to remove the distributor - thank you. Now does it have to be at TDC to remove, and if so, how do I go about finding that? And with the install, will I need a timing light to get her dialed in, or can I do it by ear/feel? It's been a while since I've used a timing light, but I think I remember how... time to run to sears and pick one up?

This is such a wonderful resource. Thank you all for your input, and if there are any more ideas, I'll be even more grateful. I'll check into all these new ideas this weekend, I have a feeling there's a little sloppy wiring going on in my distributor. I replaced the dreaded braided wire with a well-insulated substitute. Next up is the wire going through the distributor followed by the connector from the condensor to the points. Tricky to work on while in the car, but I'm not sure I want to remove the distributor from the engine as I don't have a timing light nor the experience of R+R to add yet another variable to a sticky situation.

owners manual? there should be a compartment for relays and flashers either near the fuse box in the passenger compartment or in the engine compartment. Owners manual should help you identify it.

UPDATE: I cleaned up the wiring inside the distributor, and isolated the problem to the coil, I believe. I've tested three coils: Metering the posts of the coil, I have the same voltage there as I do at the battery - right around 6 volts. Output from the center of the coil is 5 volts on two coils, 0 on the third. Shouldn't I have 10,000 or so volts coming off the coil? Am I metering incorrectly, or do I have 3 bum coils?

UPDATE: I cleaned up the wiring inside the distributor, and isolated the problem to the coil, I believe. I've tested three coils: Metering the posts of the coil, I have the same voltage there as I do at the battery - right around 6 volts. Output from the center of the coil is 5 volts on two coils, 0 on the third. Shouldn't I have 10,000 or so volts coming off the coil? Am I metering incorrectly, or do I have 3 bum coils?

Wow, thanks for the advice. I'll check into all that as soon as I get a chance, possibly as early as this evening when I get home from the office. I truly appreciate it. I think the fault may be within the distributor with the wiring that I changed out. I may have been clumsy with how the ground wire was installed. To confirm your question, I read the meter with each test lead attached directly to the + and - terminals on the coil. Thanks again. -Karl

I did replace the condenser, that was actually my first shot. I can just disconnect the breakers, or do I need to bypass them? I'm not sure how that works. Thanks for the advice!

Hello! This is my first post - and I need your assistance. I have a 51 Chrysler Windsor, all original, and I have been perplexed with ignition trouble. Here's the background: A couple months ago, I was out driving around, and parked to go into a store, and I left my headlights on. It was an older battery, so I think that was the beginnings of my trouble. In desperation, I used a 12-volt car to jump, with no luck. AAA got the car back to my house. I replaced the battery, no go. I replaced the plug wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser, and double-checked my gap. No go. I replaced the coil, no go. I replaced some of the wiring from the distributor and coil to the (whatsitcalled) on the support between the block and the oil bath, no go. I replaced my voltage regulator, no go. I have the same reading on my voltmeter when I read at the terminals of the battery as when I read from the terminals of the coil. But I still get no spark. (testing by means of spark wire 1/4" away from block. Might I have fried something when I tried to jump via 12 volts? If so, what should I be replacing? Thanks in advance for your support.

Hello! This is my first post - and I need your assistance. I have a 51 Chrysler Windsor, all original, and I have been perplexed with ignition trouble. Here's the background: A couple months ago, I was out driving around, and parked to go into a store, and I left my headlights on. It was an older battery, so I think that was the beginnings of my trouble. In desperation, I used a 12-volt car to jump, with no luck. AAA got the car back to my house. I replaced the battery, no go. I replaced the plug wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser, and double-checked my gap. No go. I replaced the coil, no go. I replaced some of the wiring from the distributor and coil to the (whatsitcalled) on the support between the block and the oil bath, no go. I replaced my voltage regulator, no go. I have the same reading on my voltmeter when I read at the terminals of the battery as when I read from the terminals of the coil. But I still get no spark. (testing by means of spark wire 1/4" away from block. Might I have fried something when I tried to jump via 12 volts? If so, what should I be replacing? Thanks in advance for your support.