jazzer3
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Posts posted by jazzer3
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Wow and thanks, that there vehicle has got integrity!
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Hello, the valve covers for our 57 sweepstakes 259 are ready for paint what finish is original, are all black accessories on the engine the same finish?
Thank you,
Jay
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I'm glad I clicked on the photo to enlarge there is a lot going on there! That is quite an apparatus.
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Why Oh Why, If you have done it before and it turned out well good luck. If this is your first time please pick a car that needs more to maintain or fix than it is worth. Is it going to be a "good" running driving car when done?
My opinion
Jay
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reads like more than the axle isn't original, are you looking for a complete "third member" or "rear axle assembly".
Where are you located, I think you should have no problem finding whatever you need for your Plymouth.
Good luck,
Jay
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I removed the screws from the inside center strip but it appears the inside windshield garnish may have to be removed also, it was too cold to do much investigating, that was only a recon mission when I get more info I'll attack, there is a flattened piece on the top of the outside center divider I am afraid of damaging if I start prying.
More snow is called for here but I'm glad I don't live where some of you are, God bless ya,
Jay
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Hello out there I haven't done much to the Studebaker due to the winter becoming like winter, but I removed the carburetor, distributor, fuel pump, valve covers and had them at home to work on. The carb, distributor, and fuel pump are ready to install, I need to paint the valve covers, what finish should they have.
Before the snow hit I made a tool to turn the oil pump and pumped oil through the engine, I had removed the oil-pressure sending unit, the oil-filter cannister and lines and the oil-pressure relief valve. As I got clean oil I blocked up the openings starting with the pressure relief valve and ending with the oil filter port on the left front. Then I continued priming and turning the engine via the fan blade until I saw fresh oil at the rockers, while doing this an oil pressure gauge was showing about 50-55. I covered the valve train with newspapers and went home.
I bought the production order sheet from the Studebaker Museum and got the key numbers for our car, I gave the numbers to a friend and he cut me keys, I was so excited I had to walk to the shop yesterday to try them and now have working keys, that's a load off the mind. I took the plug wires from the car apart, the wire is still good but the terminals were only crimped on and there was some evidence of corrosion, I used the boots and terminal ends over the only thing I soldered the ends on. Looking at the spark-plug boot can anyone tell if these are the original boots?
That snow on the hill is why I walked, my Jeep sits way down there
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Dave here is a photo of the divider, I also sent you a private message. Anyone out there, I need to know what has to be removed in order to remove the outside divider strip. Don't need to cause any damage.
There is some pitting but it still has some shine left. I had to walk
The Jeep isn't making it up the hill at the moment there is about a foot of snow but it wasn't bad walking as there is a frozen layer I didn't break through.Let me know if you are still interested due to the pitting and I'll get it off next time I get to the shop.
Jay
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Rodger when I saw the post where you mention you have to add the chrome bezel and rubber pad to the brake pedal I thought about while I was at the junkyard trying to measure the Mark II for you I removed the brake pedal and a duct off of the radiator support
The brake pedal is nice shape.Really enjoy seeing your work,
Jay
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I have one it is on a 50 New Yorker but I think that piece should be the same. I can't get to the car just now to check the condition. If you need it it's yours for the shipping
Jay
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I used a hot plate with either Spray Nine or Purple Power soap and water because I didn't feel like inhaling thinner, I could also be doing something else as the parts cook. A 49 Chevy hubcap fit perfectly on the pot I used and then a hunk of steel on top of the hub cap and had a pressure cooker. Jack I as well do the hot water treatment on engines, I used to do it to go-kart engines in my parents kitchen sink, straight 8 Chryslers are harder
This is how I cooked the grease out of the overdrive planetary gears, that is boiling water shooting through the holes in the center photo
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Scott if you are out there, there is a solid looking 52 Dodge on ebay, not too far away only Ohio. Price right now is very reasonable it would be worth watching.
jay
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Been there 10 hour round trip to see a 36,000 mile 49 Chrysler Windsor, 136,000 with rusted body mounts.
Take your time looking something will come up, there are still many reasonably priced cars especially post-war Chrysler products because they were well built, just don't get a rusty one.
My first question is how are the body mounts.
Jay
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It was mentioned that the lug threads differ, left side of car left hand thread, right side right thread. Your car should have bolts to secure the wheels not lug-nuts. If you are lucky someone drilled holes in those wheels to accommodate a locating stud instead of removing them.
Being bolts are used to secure the wheels there is a stud on the brake drum that helps to hold the wheel and locate it until the bolts can be started. Most wheels, (unless Chrysler products into the 60's) will not have a hole for the locating stud so people remove them.
Wheels shouldn't be too hard to find, I had the spare tire from my parents 62 Plymouth on a 47 Plymouth. Klinger's in Pine Grove is worth the drive just to walk around and look at the stuff. I have a 52 4 door sitting outside that may have something you need, I'm about another hour for you from Klinger's, but if you get desperate let me know what you need and maybe can help you out.
Jay
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Where the Bugatti is wintering, it turned out OK, the Grandsons have no idea what it is worth and don't care. There is a transition in pavement levels where they usually ride it and they get a little "air".
I had to move things around to make room for the "Commander", I always wanted a Studebaker, a 57 Commander wasn't on the top of the list but I like it.
Happy and Healthy New Year to All,
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Thanks Ken I have your phone numbers and will contact you closer to the date.
Jay
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I needed to make room
so I put one on top of the other. The higher stand I made for assembling the engine without having to bend over. Sometimes I think I should have collected Crosleys or Metropolitans.Jay
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Sorry I can't help with your clutch problem but thought you might like this
This is from my hometown now named "Jim Thorpe". I wonder who won and if they got a car or roadster.Good luck,
Jay
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Thank you for the heads up, our daughter lives in Lancaster so I'll stay there for a few days, she says it is close to York and she hasn't lied to me for a while. Hopefully I will get to meet some of you fellows.
I have the transmission pan down and cleaned the screen, is there anything else I should check or do while the pan is down?
Thank you,
Jay
The Chrome is cleaning up nice also. I asked this question elsewhere but How does one remove very-old petrified masking tape without damage to the original finish.
Here is a photo of the only key I found in the car, It does fit into the ignition, door, and trunk lock but doesn't turn in any the number on the key is WL471 and is an Ilco blank. does this key resemble any Studebaker keys in use?Thank you,
Jay
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Ken. I'll make darn sure I'm there that Saturday. don't know how public you want your personal information so I'll send you a PM to exchange phone numbers and such
Thank you,
Jay
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Thanks again Ken, I would want to do this at your convenience so you tell me when. I would bring my Jeep Cherokee so I don't know what else would fit, and would not want to take anything I don't need as someone else might.
I see there is a Studebaker meet in York, PA in March, I'm hoping to know about everything I'll need by then and maybe eliminate some shipping costs.
Happy New Year,
Jay
Ken, I will travel to wherever is easiest for you so you don't have to worry about moving it.
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Thank you all, I appreciate any information, I like input. Today is going to be dedicated to making room in the shop for the Studebaker and tomorrow I would like to move it. I have joined the Studebakers Driver Club and now have a shop manual, studying it I believe I should clean the oil-pressure relief valve before firing up the 38 year idle engine.
Ken unless something would become available closer, which I doubt, If and when you would have time let me know and I'll plan a trip to Pittsburgh.
The Vin number for our car is #8456300 under the hood we have 57B W4 1200. Does our Vin number indicate an early 57, I see shock absorbers might have changed through the year. Also what differences are there between the Custom and Deluxe.
The car was driven up until the rear window got smashed and was then put in the garage but something did make a mess on the back seat, I got under whatever it is and lifted it, it came up off the seat clean but I didn't feel like messing with it too much, when it gets to the shop with some proper cleaning equipment we'll take care of it.
here are some photos I will try to document the removal from garage.Thanks,
Jay
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Thanks Brad, I just joined the club. I was surprised when I clicked onto the AACA Studebaker thread and found little mention on the newer cars.
Jay
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rbk thank you for the greeting. I have been messing with old cars for a long time, but this is my first Studebaker. I am anxious to get it into my shop and see what needs to be done. My brother had a 62 Lark and I remember that car to be "peppy"
Jay
57 Studebaker Commander 4 door sedan
in Studebaker, Erskine & Rockne
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Yes Sir Ken, I am interested, I have your phone numbers and will call.
Thank you,
Jay