Otahuhu

WTB Brake shoe springs like attached photo or place to buy these Thanks

WTB 4 brake shoe springs like the attached These are off 1928 Stutz fitted with Wagner Lockheed brakes

I believe that Wagner Lockheed brakes where used on Chryslers Would like to know if they had brake springs like the attached Are looking TB for 4 of these

Please refer to the attached photo as I believe this is an orginal brake spring for the 1929 Stutz wheel brake shoe return spring Does anyone have any or made some?

If there are no springs out there to buy appreciate if someone could send a dimension drawing/photo Thanks Otahuhu

WTB brake shoe springs for the three piece brake shoes setup as orginally supplied on a 1929 Stutz M8 Need four of these My estimate these should have a free length of approx. 6 3/8"? Contact me at beaconview8@xtra.co.nz Thanks

For sale a restored UA15 Model U-1 carb as orginally supplied on a F29 1929 Oldsmobile Has not been placed on a car comes with a spare kit The body is not cracked or showing metal failure The removable air intake has a crack in it Restored by the Carb shop

Orginal Wagner Lockheed NOS 1 1/2" dia brake wheel cylinders 2 only with numbers FD740 cast on body Catalogue says these are correct for the front brake on 1929 Stutz Also have NOS repair kits

For sale two Genuine Mechnics #3325J NOS Universal Joints Has 3 1/.4" pitch holes 6 off holes at 3/8" dia with a 10 spline at 1 3/8" dia These have been made in USA Purchased for a 1918 Oldsmobile that are now parting out with other NOS ,could been used on other veterans ?

From the Stearns knight diff I pulled apart had gears like the 1929 Stutz so I don't believe these will be correct Having said that every diff I open had some differences especially in the gear pitch Yes you can drill out the rivets and re assemble using shoulder bolt Suggest you ream to size and drill and wire The Stutz diff are marked on the pinion seal plate 3233L12 or could be 3238J36 I found a Stearns with the number 3233L12 and used that to convert a Stutz to a 3.8 to 1 diff There have been some 3.8 to one worm wheels made by Phil Bray which I purchased one but even after he was advised there was problems with his worm wheels and worm shipped them out for the customer to correct Suggest you contact someone from the Stutz Club as out of the 14 made there maybe one that can be assembled without major rework and to your cost Most problems is that people fill the diff with oil containing sulphur that attacks the bronze Trust this helps

Having diassembled about six of these Timken worm diff off 8 cyl and 6 cyl Stutz and one from a Stearns Knight one would be surprised at the condition of the six bevel gears .Out of all these diffs one set was usuable Conclusion is they are subject to wear but I don't claim to be an expert just 50 plus years working with gears of all types Yes have fitted 3.8 to 1 worm wheels But if you have one supplied by Phil Bray good luck What model of Stutz are these gears for as they came orginally from Millar's stock along with other diff parts ??

What I paid for it $US175.00 plus freight insurance

Two NOS 1 1/2" dia Wagner Lockheed wheel cylinders FD740 and two kitsets FC3604OH United 203 These have not been on a vehicle.

Restored 1929 Oldsmobile updraft Schebler carburetor UX15 model U1 that was orginally supplied for this model This was restored by the Carb Shop and is no cracks on body The air intake is cracked on one mounting hole Comes with a spare kit

A part of NOS Universal Joints made in the USA with the number 3325J and stamped Genuine Mechnics. Has a 3 1/4" pitch dia holes 6 off at 3/8" dia bolt holes and with 10 splines of 1 3/8" This design found on early cars

Delco coil 6 volt with key #528P ,M965 Purchased this for a 1929 F29 Oldsmobile but did not use

FS Two Oldsmobile Scriped lenes 8 1/8" by 6 5/8" Not cracked or chipped

FS two Stutz new orginal idler gears made by Auto Gear Company Have CS 11-4 on box Do not know model they fit

I am a Stutz member # 0527 my contact details in the membership directory. Thanks for info will check out Oliver parts The ball cost will depend on number run off .How many are you looking for? These ,should be a seller at Hersey?

Looking to make some drag link and tie rod ball joints and cups sets as found on my car. Once I setup to run my requirements can run more off Is there any one interested in a set for their Model M ? Cost will depend on the number run off . Will be using EN 39 Steel Don't intend to make the springs that go with these parts

Hi I have two Model 37 Olds that are projects One has the rare wire wheels and a lot of new parts Are selling these as one lot nit as parts

Don't have the hubs but I see some where for dale on prewarcars site

Comparing a drag link cup off a Duesenberg this appears to be identical in dimensions as to the one found on a 1929 STUTZ MODEL M Is it possible that the ball joints on the steering link and tie rods ball joints are interchangeable between these two vehicles? Does anyone have a drawing of Duesenberg parts to compare? I can forward a photo of these parts off a Stutz if this helps. Thanks

As a solution you should check out to replace the orginal duralumin rods with Packard Model 356 steel rods. If you go this route you can still have run bearings or if you are going to race the car you can grind the crank down to suit shell bearing Even after testing my orginal rods through a certified aircraft motor shop I replaced these with the Packard rods with run bearings. Yes the motor is balanced and runs well

Hi The backing plate has a hole 1 5/8" dia and brake cyl. mounting holes at 1 7/8" centres I took off 1 1/4" dia cylinders which someone my have altered as the car is a 1929 model M that book shows 1 1/2" at front Regards Len