Gary_N
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Posts posted by Gary_N
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Joe:
On further thought, let me ask now. Since I’ve removed the field, ground, and ARM wires with the generator that were connected to the regulator, I’m left with the following: Three wires connected to the BATT terminal on the Regulator and one connected to the ARM terminal.
If I’m reading you reply correctly, I need to: (1) ground the 16g ARM wire that remains,(2) connect a 10g wire from the Alternator stud to the three BATT wires that remain, and (3) reconnect the carb switch wires.
Prior to a bush button install, this should allow me to start as normal, correct?
Thanks!
Gary
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Looks like I don't know how to insert an image file. It's basically this layout thought my car is a first series. 50 Wiring Diagram
I'm sure I'll have more questions.
Thanks again!
Gary
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Thanks a ton Joe. I'll let you know how this works. Been a little frustrating trying to figure this out since I'm an electrical idiot. I did pickup a universal starter button. Which side of the carb switch should I connect the starter button? For some reason, I'm thinking the right side is hot? I'm trying to attach the schematic for my '50. Let's see if this works.
Gary
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Well, I really had enough with my old generator issues, and I did not want to go through the conversion issues of 12 Volts, so I opted for a 6 Volt Alternator. Of course, I have it installed and can't seem to get Yoda to turn over. Here's what I did and I hope someone can help:
The generator had three wires running to the regulator; a ground wire attached to the top of the reg., a field wire and armature wire. I removed these with the generator and removed the reg. This left three wires to the Batt post on the reg (one being from the horn relay), and I believe one field and two armature wires.
The mfgr told me to terminal block all of these wires together, which I did. And I also ran a 10g wire from the alternator stud to the terminal block. The alternator also has a wire that runs to the plus side of the coil.
So, far I can't get the engine to crank. The mfgr told me to find the wire that runs from the carb switch to the regulator, which I did. I guess that was attached to the ARM side of the reg? He told me to ground that wire which I did. Again nothing.
So, here I am wondering if anyone has done an alternator conversion an how you hooked things up.
Help!
Thanks!
Gary
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And now the fun part, getting the engine and trans out when she won't spin more than a 1/4 turn.
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Well, if anyone is interested, Dorothy loses her butt!. Finally, after a year, breaking my back, and busted china everywhere, the last of Dorothy is ready for the yard!
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Well, I've been looking everywhere for the sending unit gasket and the O ring that sits on the inside of the gas tank flange (here the filler neck meets) of my '64 Electra. So, does anyone know of a source for these things? Or, do I need to make the gasket and start collecting O rings until I get the correct size?
Thanks for any help!
Gary
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I have this book. Book If you want something in particular, let me know and I can lookup up a source.
I usually have great luck with Cars. They have a huge inventory of things. Other good sources are as listed in this thread and also Wheatbelt Buick. Their web site should be the same name. You'll have to call them. Lastly, eBay is a great place for parts. Buying or selling cars can be an issue, but finding needed parts there has been great for me.
Email me goub51@gmail.com if you want me to look anything up.
Gary
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I think some of the hot air from this thread is actually melting a glacier as we speak. For me, it's back to worrying my Buick's and one very lonely De Soto.
Gary
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Bob, as usual you're right on. And I do love the out-of-round tire idea. I'm surprised the greenies haven't thought of that one yet!
And Dave, it's really hard to take you seriously with that signature, "I stand by all the misstatements that I've made."
Gary
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Please give me a break about the "this is a Buick forum". We all own Buick's and we're talking about stuff that seems to be of interest to a lot of Buick people. So, do as Bob says, don't read it if you ain't interested.
And with all due respect to the participants of this thread, the truth about most things lies somewhere in the middle of the issue. The extremists are usually just that. The sky is not falling and Al Gore doesn't give a rat's behind about anything but himself, you can rest assured of that.
Gary
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Pete:
I would never tow anything with a car. It's just not the same. But that's me. I've towed some expensive things around and have had many instances of having to slam on the brakes, etc. You need a truck to tow and the longer the better. And, even with my 3500, I never tow without weight distribution bars.
Worst case, search the race magazines for tow vehicles. You can usually find some good cheap deals.
One thing is for sure, the more you tow, the more mishaps you'll have from flat tires and on. Something always seems to happen. Ask Lamar! Again, I'd rather be in a truck than a station wagon when that happens.
Gary
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Actually, I found a very reasonable place near me. Thanks Marty, I'll check out Hi Tech Coatings. By the way, how's the Skylark coming? Did you every decide on what you were going to do with the engine sitting in the Chrysler in the front of the garage?
Thanks!
Gary
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OK, not to point out the obvious, but it's the selling price that matters. And, from my perspective, I see a lot of stuff not selling of which I have lots of personal experience. Instead of watching B-J events (which I love to attend), try the MECUM action on one of the HD channels. I'm amazed at how low some of the prices are at the bang of the gavel.
Gary
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Joe:
There have been at least one TV show about Max. He was a resourceful guy to say the least.
Gary
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Looks like someone hit the hot button with this post! Ah, just to keep this part of a Buick forum, I'd like to say that I hope I can drive my old Buick's for a long time to come. And by the way, hey Bob, I thought that secret bank account in Nigeria was mine. I mean I get mail on that all of the time!
And a question: I've been buying gas at Costco these days. The last time I was filling up the '50 I noticed on the pump that the fuel was mixed with 10% Ethanol. Is this a problem for my old, un-restored Straight 8?
Gary
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Thanks John.
I know of some of the Baltimore area coaters. I was hoping for someone's experience. Anyway, never thought about Craig's list. My experience there has been so so, but that's with trying to sell cars.
Thanks again.
Gary
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Oh boy's, Diesel is over $4.40 a gallon. Gas is around $3.65. So, it's over 20% more. I've been towing for years. I have a 3500 Silverado now and LOVE IT. But, I use it sparingly. I can get almost 20 MPG if I keep it around 60. Towing gives me about 9 - 10. I tow an open and enclosed with about the same mileage. I used to have a Suburban 2500 that I used for towing. The Suburban had 455 pounds of torque. "Hulk" (my 3500) has 650 pounds of torque. But honestly, the Suburban was just fine towing the enclosed trailer with car. And, the towing mileage was the same as the Diesel. And worse, I think the premium for "Hulks" engine was like $6,000. But, the thought was that I'd never need to buy another truck. I was thinking (and still do) that the Isuzu engine in there will be good for a very long time. We'll see.
If you can buy used trucks for $4,000. Who cares what it is. Towing will yield the same mileage. Stick with gas.
Gary
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It's all very depressing.
We need to dive into development of Nitrogen as our next fuel source and save the gasoline for Bob's cars, and Matt's cars, and my cars, and all the rest of us here!!
Gary
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My continuing .02 Cents. Bob, as usual, you got it right! It's go nothing to do with greedy corporations. And Matt, you're correct, although I'm not sure getting "our" oil is going to tear up the landscape. Surely, we're more technically advanced than that, aren't we? But the real point is the more self reliant we are, the less $100,000 a fill up Bombers we have to send somewhere else under the guise that we're building Democracies, when in reality we're protecting the oil. High prices are here to stay, and they're going to get higher! So, go drive your Buick's now (and Chrysler's and Vette's, and whatever else is in the stable), 'cause it'll cost more next week.
Gary
PS. Found some interesting equipment to make your own Biodiesel. Since I love freedom fries, it might be kinda cool for "Hulk" (my Truck) to smell like McDonald's wherever he goes?!* I wonder what they do with the used fries oil anyway??
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Bob, you have it correct.
Paid $4.41 per gallon for Diesel the other day. Looks like the truck is going to sit until I figure out how to make my own Biodiesel. My heat, hot water and cooking gas are propane. Filling up that 1,000 gallon tank is also a nightmare.
Wonder how much it costs to fill up a jet to fly around and protect some country that hates us??
Gary
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To me, if you're going to build any type of hot road roadster, there's only 2 engine choices, one that I won't mention and the other being a Nailhead. Not sure if anyone went to the dragstrip in the old days, but Tommy Ivo had the coolest dragster there was, a four nailhead engine rail. Used to run down the strip with all 4 tires smoking!
Gary
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Lamar:
Thanks for the Casino Beige and White. Never saw what that actually looks like in new condition. That's Dorothy's colours (spelling for my Canadian Friends)!
The wagons are nice!
Gary
6 Volt Alternator wiring help for my '50.
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Joe:
Connected things up as you suggested. Yoda turns over now but won't fire. Since he always fires up, I have to conclude that I'm not getting juice to the coil. Attached is a picture of the alternator. You can see that there is a plug (the mfgr calls this a DA plug). The plug connects to the alternator terminal stud with the yellow wire being connected over to the plus side of the coil. Somewhere in the scheme of things, the battery juice is not reaching the coil. Do you have any ideas?
Thanks in advance for any help! Gary