Gary_N
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Posts posted by Gary_N
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Hey John. Long time no talk.
I didn't get a chance to heat the pads. It would hardly stop pulling it out of the garage. I do plant to recheck the adjustment tomorrow though. I'm thinking a little loose is better than tight.
Gary
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Ok, I need help again, as usual. My Yoda story is turning into quite the saga...the details of which will be spared so as not to bore. Anyway, long and short; new brakes; drums turned; new wheel cylinders; lines cleaned; hoses replaced;of course new fluid; rebuilt master; etc.
I adjusted the brakes per the manual ( I think). The manual says to expand the pads until it takes two hands to turn the wheel. I did not make it difficult to turn. Bled the brakes. Actually bought a reverse bleeding system which is very cool -- and a little messy but I have a great pedal. It almost seems too good.
Anyway, I took Yoda out around drive and the brakes bite big time. I mean you have to stand on them and still its very hard to stop even like at 10 MPH. So, what could I have possibly done wrong?? Anyone??
Thanks in advance for any help!!
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Looking for driver quality or better Cadillac or Buick (Roadmaster) Convertible from '46 - '54. Prefer '46 - '49. Email gnoub51@gmail.com. Or call, 301/509-1233.
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Ah, that would be hard to say since they are now installed. Wish I could be more helpful. Maybe I still have the boxes in the garage. I will take a look at let you know.
Gary
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Tom, I don't think this is my issue. The shoes are identical. The drum spins freely, it just does not like to easily pass over the axle.
Thanks for the info. Go to know for future garage maidens!
Gary
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Looking for a '49 - '53 Ford Convertible. Prefer 3 speed V8 driver. Gary gnoub51@gmail.com.
Thanks!
Gary
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Just an FYI: It actually looks like the end of the axle is the issue. It seems both drums will easily slide onto the drivers side but will not slide onto the other side. How can this be? Who knows but it really feels like the drum does not just slip over the end of the axle. You have to bang it on (lightly), which means it's back to needing three sets of hands to get it off. Hopefully I won't have to do that for a good long while! I guess axles get fat like old guys when they get older?!
Gary
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I'm not promoting a supplier, but I just bought a bunch of bearings from Cars. Fronts, rears, etc. They are Japanese made. I think the Japanese make great stuff these days. A far cry from the old days. Also, I picked up a set of NOS New Departure front bearings from the Buick Farm. A tiny bit of surface rust but nice. I actually just put these in my '50 tonight. I've learned to stick with NOS where ever possible.
As far as the maintenance thing, that's the best part of old cars. You have to pay attention to them to keep 'em happy....and then they keep you happy....sorta....I guess like my wife....but then I had to turn her in since she became too expensive to operate! Ah well.....
Gary
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Just my two cents: I have always had great luck with Cars. Never a problem sending things back if there is an issue. There always seems to be some negative stuff said about them but my experience has been great. I've had some part issues along the way, but I've spent a least a couple of thousand with them over the past few years and have been happy. Bobs is good too.
I have learned that there's a lot of 'waste' when it comes to old cars. And some times it's just not worth the hassle fighting over $50 dollars. But that's me.
Good luck!
Gary
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Tom, no need to post the picture. Thanks for the thought. It's back together. I take lots of pictures when I take things apart. Now if I had looked at the pictures before I buttoned up the rears I wouldn't have had this problem.
I looked all over the drum once removed. I cannot for the life of me figure out why it wouldn't slid off. Maybe the machine shop messed up the job when they turned the drums??? I can't imagine that was the issue. I guess I should measure around the drum to see if maybe that was the case. Obviously the drum was stuck on the shoe. So maybe it is a funky turn job. I hope not. I don't want to bank them off again.
Thanks again for the help.
Gary
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Tom, its always raining when you get a flat. I live out in the woods and until recently, we had an 1/4 mile gravel private drive for the 5 neighbor properties. I've had a flat tire on every car I own including a truck (with like million ply tires) as a result of this drive EXCEPT for the 14 year old Bias Ply tires on my '50. We've since paved the drive and I have 5 nice new Diamond Back WWW radials to put on. Watch, now I'll get a flat! I may take you up on your guides soon.
Gary
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Well thanks for the ears guys and girls, if there are any out there. It took three set of hands to get the drum off, one to hold the drum and two with a big screw driver and hammer on each side of the back of the drum. Three good simultaneous whacks and it came off. I'm hoping the part I left out somehow caused this issue. I had the emergency cable loosened all the way but that made no difference at all.
This is all very odd to me. The drum spun around without an issue and moved in and out a 1/4 inch. The adjuster was backed off all the way. I could see from the adjuster slot in the back that this was the case. Just one of those old car curse things???
Then Yoda hit me again. This time with the front brake hoses. Seems there's more '49 parts on this car than '50 parts. Anyway, thank god for good neighbors and UPS. And thank god for old tools. Now I can get the brake springs on an off with ease...sorta!
Thanks again for the help and ears. Wish some of you lived near by. It's nice having neighbors to help out but they aren't what you'd call old Buick guys! Seems I'm the old guy that likes old Buicks and they're the young not so into old cars neighbors.
Gary
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Willie, the adjuster is backed off all the way. The drivers side slipped right off. Left the part off both sides. It's the flat piece that runs across both shoes just under the wheel cylinder with a coil spring on one end. Didn't touch the parking brake cable. Will loosen tonight. Actually, I think the part I left off has to do with the parking brake. Stupid me!
Gary
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Drums turned; blasted; painted and looked nice until this issue. The bolts are off. I guess it's a helper to hold while I tap on the back. Still doesn't make any sense to me why it just won't slip off. Just more stuff to make me crazy I guess.
Thanks!
Gary
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Yep, as usual, this is the first place I come to for help.....yet again.
So, finally I 'finish' getting the brakes done on Yoda. Well I though, but, I realized that I left off a part to the rear brakes. Easy to forget if you have parts scattered all over...like me of course. Anyway, I never tighten the adjusted so I figured the drums would just slide off....and the left rear did. Well, for some reason I cannot get the driver side rear drum off. I mean it spins around the shoes and moves in and out but will not come off no matter what I do. I tried for an hour and decided it was beer time.
Has anyone ever had this problem?
Thanks!
Gary
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Well, it looks like the old tools are different from the new ones -- the plier type anyway. I picked up a used plier type tool at Hershey from the old tools vendor. The older tool has a slot for the brake pin. The new plier tool has a dimple. The slot made all the difference. And I think I paid $4 for it. I think old tools are as cool as old cars actually. Anyway, just thought I'd pass that on.
Gary
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Vito, I thought I replied to you but can't seem to find it. Anyway, the Hollander manual says you can you '48 - 52 Special and Super Transmissions and '53 Special transmissions. There seems to be a difference from first jobs and later jobs. If you want part number let me know.
Gary
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I bought a new MC from Cars last month for my '50. Not sure is they have new ones for your car.
Gary
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Rich:
The idea is to get the steering knuckle support to sit in the middle of the upper control arm (lever shock in my case). The upper control arm has a clamp side. The clamp side is the side where the pivot pin is adjusted (for Caster/Camber) through the grease fitting hole of the pivot pin bushing (internal threaded bushing). The opposite side gets the bushing with the external and internal threads. So, you center the steering support knuckle with the pivot pin being centered as well then tighten the steering knuckle support clamp. Next install both the bushings loosely and tighten the non clamp side first. Then tighten the clamps side bushing, and then the clamp on the upper control arm.
Doing it any other way for some reason moves the steering knuckle support off center and the lower control arm will not line up with the lower pivot pin.
I pulled my hair out for a couple of hours last week and could not get it right. The above method took 5 minutes and everything lined up perfectly.
Gary
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As a follow up and a shocking surprise, if you READ the shop manual and actually follow what it says, suspension parts seems to magically line up as intended. Another few years and I may just get this right!
Thanks for the ears.
Gary
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And by the way, I really want to trade the '50 for a pre-war Roadmaster. How does your '37 drive compared to the La Salle? I'd ask about the Cord but that's too pricey for me. I think the Cord sedans are beautiful. I should see one or two this week in Hershey.
Gary
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Tom, I'll have to see what sounds my springs make!
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Tom, thanks for the visual education! I need to get one of those tools!
Gary
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Tom, I have a lift. Bought a used Rotary. It was cheap. And, I could never do this without one. If I have to be under a car, I'd rather stand! I'd love a lathe and a mill.....just wouldn't know how to use either!
Gary
Help....Yoda won't stop....literally!
in Buick - Post War
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John, forgot to add; not sure about the pad material. I bought them from cars.