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olympic

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Posts posted by olympic

  1. We had nothing but troubles with the thumb wheel disconnects. I finally removed them from all the cars and threw them away.  Now, if the car is going to be sitting for a bit, I remove a cable.  This is especially easy if the battery is under the hood, a little more difficult when the battery is under the seat or floorboards. Dave

  2. The saga of the stubborn Stude.  First, thanks to all who responded. We checked ignition timing and it was dead on. We ran ground cables to starter bolt and grounded engine. Still extremely slow cranking.  The starter was rebuilt by different people.  We checked voltage across the battery posts, 6.29 volts. We checked the specific gravity of the electrolyte. Full charge. Finally, yesterday, we ran a load test on the battery, 375 cranking amps, the tester even said "change battery".  So, pulled old battery out and went up to the local NAPA. Got a new battery, cranking test showed 675 amps.  Put in the Stude, VOILA, cranks over like mad and starts right up. Now the old battery wasn't even 3 years old and has been maintained with battery tenders.  Go figure.  Thanks again for all the advice Dave

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  3. Our 49 Stude Commander continues to be a hard starter.  The starter motor has been rebuilt twice. It has a new battery, new 6 volt cables. It almost seems that the 6 cylinder engine has too much compression for the 6 volt battery. Has anyone experienced something like this? Do I need an 8 volt battery? DP

  4. On my 11B the lighter is on a long reel that winds out and reaches all the way to the back seat so that Uncle Joe could light his cigar. Pulling out the little knob locks the cable. Pushing the knob back in unlocks the cable so that it winds back into the dash. Also, on my car, there is a small bracket on the firewall that holds a trouble light that can be screwed into the cigar lighter and then reeled out to help you see under the hood on a dark and dreary night. Dave

     

     

     

     

     

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