Pete O
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Posts posted by Pete O
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I found another diagram in a Chilton's flat rate manual:
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According to an old Motor's manual I have, Lincolns used the Gemmer stearing gear, and this is the picture in the manual of the gear.
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According to Carlton Pate's book Early Ford Automobile Encyclopedia, the Model B came with 32" x 3 1/2" tires. That works out to a 25" rim (32-3.5-3.5), and your existing 810x90 mm tires work out to a 24.8" rim, which is close enough to 25" to confirm that 32 x 3 1/2 would fit your rims. But I can't find that size available in any of the usual suppliers. However, a 33"x4" tire also works out to a 25" rim size, and Universal and Lucas tire list this tire size as available.
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I had similar issues with my '51 Buick. It was a combination of things. First, the fuel in the bowl would percolate if the engine was hot, flooding it. So opening the throttle wide on hot start up (which btw, is in the Buick instruction manual for the car) cures that. Turns out the water jackets were clogged, and cleaning them made the engine run much cooler. Second, I found that when hot, the start motor would bind up. I had a spare starter that turned much more freely by hand, so I replaced the starter and now it turns over much faster. Third, I had good thick cables on the battery, but I suspect the battery wasn't completely healthy all along. It would quickly loose much of it's charge if I had to crank it more than say 10 seconds. It was one of those that you bought dry, and had to add the acid and charge it. When I eventually had to replace the battery, I got a gel battery, and boy did that make a difference in cranking power. I can crank it for 10 seconds and it doesn't slow down at all. Now, it starts like a champ even when hot.
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It looks from the picture that the fuel supply line comes into the bottom of the float bowl, and that orifice in the bottom is how the fuel gets into the bowl. So for the float to work, it has to be attached to a valve below that orifice that can be pulled upward as the float rises to close off the fuel flow. Is an end of the rod coming through the float threaded so it could screw into a valve? You are going to have to take that carb apart to see what kind of needle valve there is below that orifice.
Here's a link to a copy of a 1909 Maxwell instruction manual: http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Maxwell/1909_Maxwell/1909_Maxwell_Instruction_Book/dirindex.html
Pages 26 and 27 discuss the carb, and there is a drawing that shows that the rod on the float connects to a v shaped valve in the chamber below what's shown in your photo that is pulled up with the float rod. Looks like you might be able to access that by removing that large screwed in plug in the bottom of the float bowl.
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Is there an identifying part number on the tool? Does it say T109-121S? If so, this is a special gauge needed to adjust the Carter Carburetor vacuum starter switch. I have an old Motor's manual that refers to this tool in order to measure the throttle valve opening in degrees. The starter switch must be installed on the carb with shims in order for it to activate from between 30 to 40 degrees of throttle opening.
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They're keeping the money because they can get away with it. This is one of those events that has such appeal that even people who are being screwed out of the money this year will come back.
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That bumper is mounted way too low. The light blue painted area around the grill looks like the raised panel area you can see clearly in the picture zepher posted. You can see maybe 1 -1/2 inches of the panel above the corner of the bumper in zepher's picture. But in the blue car, you can see maybe 3-4 inches of that raised area. I'd bet that the bumper brackets might have been switched right to left and turned upside down.
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21 hours ago, 31plymouth said:
White Field 1990 and 1998 Those were the days
Some romanticize the memory of the mud fields.... All I remember was how hard it was to walk through that slop and how it permanently stained anything it came in contact with. The paved fields are so so much better.
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On 9/19/2020 at 3:20 PM, JBP said:
Yes, I swapped out caps, too. Nothing made a difference. Any cap on the front driver’s side position always shifted.
Of course, the Golden Anniversary Buicks always gave their owners a little something extra 😉
If it's the left front all the time regardless of hubcap or wheel, I wonder if maybe you're front driver's brakes are dragging a little, causing the drum and wheel to heat up and expand?
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Easy to test if the carb linkage is out of adjustment. Remove wires from carb starter switch. Using multimeter or test light, with the throttle closed, there should be no continuity between the terminals on the switch. Open the throttle, and there should be continuity. The service manual describes how to adjust the linkage to get the right clearances for the switch to operate properly.
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Excellent!
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I don't have a picture, but I suspect that the routing of the cables is probably the same as my '51 Buick. The Buick service manual has this description of the cable routing: "When connecting the transmission cables to the drive shaft lever, attach the right hand end of the cable to the upper end of the drive shaft lever, and attach the left hand end to lower end of lever. Pass the right hand loop of cable over the upper pulley on cable tensioner and pass the left hand loop over the lower pulley. While holding cables in pulleys, apply slight pressure to cable tensioner ratchet spring and rotate pulley support plate to remove pressure from temporary locking pin which will then fall out of holes. Slowly release pulley support plate until cables are tight, then release ratchet spring. CAUTION: Do not let pulleys snap against cables.
PS I found this list of parts and illustrations in the parts manual. It doesn't show the routing, but the pictures of the named parts might help understanding the instructions above.
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2 hours ago, bdc said:
Again this proves that California is the land of fruits, nuts & flakes. They better start working on their forest management that will prevent a lot more smog. If they really want to be serious and not a bunch of hypocrites than they need to switch the state over to only wind, solar & electric eel energy to charge their electric cars
Those virtue signaling morons have already switched over to mostly wind and solar, which is why they have rolling blackouts when it goes over 90 degrees. They forgot that sometimes the wind doesn't blow and that the sun goes down at night. If you blanketed the entire state of California with solar panels, it would not produce enough juice to run all those electric cars they want to have. Perhaps if they just added the electric eels....
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Wow! The body style sure does look like that photo from the Henry Ford museum of the 1902 runabout! The front and rear suspensions look different- your photos show the axles being supported by semi elliptic springs that run longitudinally front to back. The HF Museum photo shows full elliptic springs at each of the 4 wheels. But remember, these pre 1903 cars were ALL prototypes, so differences from one to the next are to be expected. Are there any remnants (bolt holes, brackets, etc.) of how the original engine might have been mounted? Any markings on the chassis?
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37 minutes ago, padgett said:
Was done once - the Kissel car for Pebble lasted several episodes. The problem is that a 30 minute discovery show has 10 minutes of content, 9 minutes of repeating the content, 10 minutes of commencials. And one minute (seperating commecials, probable an FCC thing) on something totally different.
I generally turn on and pause about an hour before, then just X3 through the commercials (am no longer sick of the volcano, now its the pirates and quicksand. Just what we need.)
The only way to watch ANY tv show nowadays is to DVR it, and speed through the crap. The only thing I (used to) watch live is sports.
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Kevan, Would it be possible for you to post a picture of your car? I'd love to see it!
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16 hours ago, Kevan said:
Dear Pete:
Thank you for your response. I am following-up with: http://earlyfordregistry.com/
I do not know a lot about this old car. I did see on: https://www.thehenryford.org/collections-and-research/digital-collections/artifact/198442 , that there is a 1902 Ford, but it might not have been sold until 1903.
I also saw at: https://www.conceptcarz.com/s5250/ford-model-a.aspx.aspx that Ford made Model A cars from 1902 to 1905, before making the Model T and then the more well known Model A. The 1902 to 1905 Model A looks to my untrained eyes to be identical to the Runabout.
I also read that Ford provided Cadillac with engines during the first few years of the 20th century, and that the engine was identical to that used in the Fords. So I am also looking for Cadillac engines of that time. So far, no luck.
with kind regards,
Kevan
That picture in the concetpcarz website is one of the early race cars that made a name for Henry Ford. That car is know as the Sweepstakes car, and is the one that he raced in and beat Alexander Winton in 1901. That 1902 ford in the henryford website is a prototype that never went on sale. Cadillac was formed from the remains of the second Ford car company, The Henry Ford Company. The Cadillac Model A of 1903 was based on the body and chassis design Ford was working on when he abandoned that company. Henry Leland went on to design and build the one cylinder engine that was used in the Cadillac Model A. If you look at the 1903 Cadillac Model A and the 1903 Ford Model A, it is very hard to tell them apart but the Ford Model A had a 2 cylinder engine vs. the Cadillac one lunger. From what I've read, Ford never built engines for the Cadillac company. In fact, Ford didn't build his own engines until 1907. Until then, they were built by Dodge Brothers under contract to Ford. The Dodge brothers were big stockholders in the Ford Motor Company, and they used their profits from the stock dividends to develop their own car. Henry did not like that, and in a move that would land him in jail nowadays, he manipulated the stock price way downward and bought out the Dodge brothers shares for pennies on the dollar.
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10 hours ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:
There was a "Henry Ford Company" which existed for a few months, ending in 1902 when Ford departed after a dispute with the company backers.
Were there any cars produced during this time ?
After Ford had departed, this factory began building Cadillac cars under the leadership of Henry Leland.
I do not believe based on what I have read that Ford built any cars that were sold to the public during his first two attempts to form a company from 1899-1902: The Detroit Automobile Company and the Henry Ford Company. Prototypes were built, and Ford essentially used these companies as a means to develop and refine the car that eventually went into production in 1903 in his third and final attempt to form a company, The Ford Motor Company. If any of the prototypes still exist, they are in museums.
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15 hours ago, edinmass said:
Unless I am mistaken, 1903 Ford cars sued Dodge Brothers engines. Cadillac made their own, but both the Cadillac and Dodge Brothers looked very similar.
Dodge Brothers manufactured the Ford designed engines (and frames) under contract for Ford. Ford didn't actually make their own engines until the 1907 Models N, R and S.
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You might want to try these guys: http://earlyfordregistry.com/
This is for Pre-Model T fords 1903- 1909 (it actually includes really early Model Ts too)
Did you mean to say 1902 Ford? The first model from the Ford Motor Company was the 1903 Model A.
There's a user forum that you can sign up for, and post a want ad.
FYI, a few years ago, I did see a complete Ford Model C engine for sale at the Hershey swap meet. I don't remember exactly how much the guy was asking for it, but do remember it wasn't cheap! The Model C engine is a slight improvement on the Model A (10hp vs. 8hp), and the engines are essentially interchangeable from what I know.
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The stroke is the same on the 248 and the 263 (the difference in displacement is in the bore), so I imagine they are interchangeable. I do not know of an adapter to make a dynaflow crank fit with a manual transmission. It seems that any sort of adapter would have to move the flywheel out of position.
CORRECTION- I checked my parts manual, and there is a different part number for the manual trans crank from 1939-1949 series 40 and 50 (1321354) and from 1950-1953 series 40 and 50 (1339816), so it looks like these will not interchange. But note that the cranks are used in both the series 40 and 50. The 248 was in the series 40 and 50 up through 1949. In 1950 the 248 was in the 40 and the 263 was in the 50. From 1951 to 1952, there was only the 263 used in the 40 and 50, and in 1953 the 263 was in the 40 only.
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I'm not exactly sure how to read this. Is this saying that the spacer 1338263 fits ALL series for the years 1950 thru 1952, and then in 1953 series 40 and 50 only, and then 1954 series 40, 50 and 60? So that implies that on the Roadmaster series 70 320 engine, it would only come into play in 1950 thru 1952.
Or is it saying it fits 1950 thru 1952 and 1953 series 40 and 50, etc, implying that it fits only series 40 and 50 for those 4 years, and would not come into play at all for the series 70 320?
I'm leaning toward the first interpretation because of the semi colon.
https://www.buickfarm.com/gm-group-1-cooling-oiling/1338263/spacer-fan
Buick farm seems to carry this spacer, and it indicates it's for all 1950-55 w/o power steering.
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Name this tool!?!
in General Discussion
Posted
LOL! I was thinking the exact same thing. BTW, I love your tag line: Truth is not insulting. Reality is not an attack.