Pete O
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Posts posted by Pete O
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= a way of life for Dynaflow owners.
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We moved from Brooklyn to Long Island in 1962. The next door neighbors had a Fastback Chevy circa 1950 and I remember thinking how old that car looked. The guy just around the corner had a new Ford Galaxy, and I remember thinking how big that car was compared to our little Rambler. But at least our Rambler beat out the guy across the street who had this little green Fiat that he was always under the hood of. He was from Switzerland and didn't like American cars, but I guess he liked constantly fixing his Fiat.
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Just a historical tidbit. The Chrysler and Empire State Buildings were going up around the same time, and they competed against each other to be the tallest building. When the Empire State topped out at the 86th floor it was taller than the Chrysler. But Chrysler's builders had a trick up their sleeve. The spear at the top of the building was secretly being constructed inside the upper stories of the building, and once it was complete they jacked it up through the top in order to reclaim the title of the tallest building! But then the Empire State had the zeppelin mooring mast added to the top which brought it to 102 stories, and it reclaimed the title. Interestingly, no zeppelin ever successfully moored to the mast- the winds are too strong and unpredictable.
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Meh, he's not so brave. The brave guy is the one who went up before him and tied that rigging in place 😉
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Lighten up fellas. Remember perspective here. You're looking at it from the perspective of the engineer who designed it and get all defensive, perhaps righteously, when criticized. I'm looking at it from the perspective of the end user who wants to work on the car himself and can't because of the decisions the engineer made. We both have valid points of view.
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I'm pretty sure there was a fwd V6 Chevy or Pontiac that required the engine to be removed to change the spark plugs on the bank nearest the firewall. That's just lazy engineering, like the battery in the Excalibur.
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The manual shows that the 1935 through 1946 Studebaker was a positive ground system, so it's fairly safe to assume that the Rockne from 1932-33 was also positive ground.
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I'm attaching scans from
the repair manual that the describe the operation and adjustment of the Bendix-startix system. This might not exactly be what you have, but it might give you some information.
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I don't have any information on the Rockne, which was a Studebaker product made from 1932-1933. I have an old MoTor repair manual that goes back to 1935, and it shows that Studebaker used an automatic starter/ignition system at that time called the Bendix-Startix. Turning the ignition/starter key to the on position caused the engine to crank, and when the engine started the system automatically blocked out the starter motor. But if any time the key was on and the engine stalled, the system would automatically re-energize the starter motor, cranking the engine until it restarted. I wonder if this is the system that is in your Rockne?
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Didn't these early Buicks have a different shift pattern than standard? Weren't they 1st right and down, second, left and up , third left and down , reverse right and up? When did the pattern change to the standard?
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I always thought the the green first began to be used on the nailheads in '53, and that the straight 8 in the Special in '53 continued to use the turquoise. The '52s which were all straight 8s used the turquoise. Now, if you are seeing the green as the first coat of paint right on the bare metal on a '52 engine, that's a poser. Might that not have been the original engine in the car, and it was replaced later when the green paint was in use? Or maybe the engine was rebuilt some time in the past and was painted green?
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On 6/7/2021 at 11:06 AM, Mark Gregush said:
There is no pushing of the gas out of the vacuum pump, it is gravity feed so there is not a lot of head pressure to force the gas thru the filter.
Thanks Mark, that's interesting information that I did not know. Is there a sediment bowl built into the vacuum tank that will catch debris and condensed moisture that can be drained out? If so, is an inline paper filter even necessary? I know in the Model A community, where the fuel tank is in the cowl and it gravity feeds to the carb, guys tend to want to add a filter, and all that does is cause flow problems as the filter clogs up. The factory sediment bowl that's in the fuel line is really all that's needed if you're not dealing with a fuel tank that's full of rust. The add on filter is a band-aid. The only real cure is to clean the tank.
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41 minutes ago, Mark Shaw said:Are you running the vacuum tank? If so, you may have a vacuum leak causing intermittent fuel starvation.
Good point. That fuel filter appears empty to my eyes. Looks like the picture was taken with the engine not running, which could explain the empty filter, which looks to be installed where the vacuum tank would be drawing the gas up through the filter. It's not good practice to suck gas through a filter. It's better to push it through. The widening of the fuel line at the filter causes a low pressure area where vaporization can occur. If you are sucking the gas up through the filter, you can get bubbles in the flow because of this, which as Mark said can cause temporary fuel starvation, lowering the level of gas in the carb bowl causing a lean mixture causing the backfiring. I'd relocate that filter somewhere between the vacuum tank and the carb, where the gas would be pushed through the filter.
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I wonder if the oil pressure relief valve is sticking in an opened position until the oil warms up enough for it to move freely?
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There's also a power valve that opens to allow more gas to flow at higher loads. The valve is a piston that operates based on vacuum in a bore in the carb body, and it can get stuck from gunk.
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I think a contributing factor to using 6v is the pitting that occurs in the ignition points with higher voltages in the primary circuit. 12v will make a stronger arc when the points open, causing the pitting. Look at how 12v ignition systems have a resister built into the wiring to reduce the voltage in the primary circuit to stop the pitting.
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Are there any wheel alignment gurus out there? I'm having issues with the left front tire wearing faster than all the rest. Toe in is spot on, caster and camber are close to specs., which are: Caster max. 6 1/2º min. 3 1/2º Camber max. 2º min. 1/4º Camber plus side inclination max. 9º min. 8 1/4º Toe-in 3/32 Toe-out 15º turn: 17°, 20º turn: 23 3/4° Tolerance 1/2º.
To check the toe out on turn I put the front tires on turntables with degrees marked off. These are my results:
when I turn the right wheel in 15° the left turns out 17°- ok!
when I turn the right wheel in 20° the left turns out 23 1/2°- close to the 23 3/4 spec!
when I turn the left wheel in 15° the right turns out 17°- ok!
when I turn the left wheel in 20° the right turns out 19° BAD!
Is this telling me that the steering arm on the right side is maybe bent? It seems to me that with these results I should be seeing more wear on the right tire, not the left, as the right tire isn't turning in enough and would be scrubbing. But should I look at it like this: If I turn the right wheel out to the 23 1/2° mark, the left wheel is showing 25° So when I'm turning right, the left wheel, which is the one that is wearing too quickly is turning in too much? I'm so confused!
The turntables are free floating. I also noticed that when I turned to the left, both turntables stayed centered, but when I turned to the right, the left turntable moved forward from it's previously centered position. Is this telling me that the king pin inclination on the left is off so that it's not intersecting the ground at the center point of the tire? -
13 hours ago, TomTIII said:
trying to figure out how to get access to the brake linings to replace them (rears)
You'll have to take off the parking brake carrier. That means removing the brake rod from the lever on the back side of the backing plane, and the lever from the parking brake shaft. Then slide the shaft our with the parking brake band. Then remove the carrier by unbolting the 4 bolts that you started to remove, which will allow you to take the carrier off. As oldford recommended, Les Andrews book is a must for someone just getting into Model A's. You can do this if you follow the steps in Les' book.
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I assume you also had a question on the rear brakes from the picture you posted? I see there are two nuts missing. Are you trying to remove or install?
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I had the same problem with the wheel covers coming off. I tried splaying out the tabs on the wheel cover and sharpening the teeth on them so they would bite into the wheel more. But it kept happening. It stopped happening after I replaced the brake drums which had been cut too many times. My theory is that the thin brake drums didn't have the meat on them to absorb the heat from braking, and the heat transferred to the wheel causing the wheel to expand, loosening the wheel cover.
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Spare tire carrier?
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On 5/6/2021 at 12:28 PM, Frijolito said:
So the starter turns over as normal. So I’ll give the gas pedal a try. I wonder if trying to clear out the cylinders/intake by cranking it a few times with the ignition off if it would help
First off, what a beautiful car! You don't see many of these. Secondly, I think cranking it over with the ignition off might just draw in more unburned gas. I'd try it with the ignition on so that as soon as the air/fuel ratio comes to an ignitable mix it will fire off.
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If your engine is cranking at the same speed hot as it does when cold, you may be experiencing percolation. The warm fuel in the carb float bowl boils a little, causing fuel to be forced out the metering jets where it pools in the intake manifold at the base of the carb, flooding the engine with gas. Too rich a mixture won't ignite. When you start your warm engine, try slowly flooring the gas pedal (so as not to cause the accelerator pump to squirt even more raw gas into the mix) while you are cranking your engine. Having the throttle wide open helps clear out the unburned gas that has collected, and lean out the overly rich mixture so the car can start.
If the car cranks over more slowly when it's hot, it could be a couple things. Check your electrical connections to make sure they are clean and tight. Make sure your battery cables are the correct gauge. Also check your starter. I found that when my starter got hot from the warmed engine, the shaft would bind in the bushings. I reamed out the bushings a little to get more clearance, and the starter now spins freely hot or cold.
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It might have been that some of the fingers in the clutch were binding from lack of use, causing an uneven and not full disengagement of the clutch. That could have caused the gear grinding on shifts. The clang might have been the clutch fingers freeing up? Just a guess.
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= a way of life for Dynaflow owners.
the repair manual that the describe the operation and adjustment of the Bendix-startix system. This might not exactly be what you have, but it might give you some information.
What Were Youre Neighbors Driving?
in General Discussion
Posted
I kid you not, but his name was in fact Tony!