JohnFain_29U_Plymouth

I'm not sure, but isn't it just 1/8 inch ID copper tubing, like used for oil pressure gages? (I overhauled my 29 Plymouth engine and remember the tube.)

On the Model A Ford ignition coil, I am told that a replacement coil has the terminals labeled + and -. The supplier states that when installing the replacement coil on a Model A, the coil should be mounted (and wired) so that the Positive terminal is on the passenger side. I have a small wiring diagram of a Model A, but it is not very detailed. It shows the passenger side coil terminal wire connecting to the instrument cluster, and the driver side coil terminal connecting to a terminal box. My question is, for this set up (for the Positive ground Model A Ford), which coil terminal is connected to the distributor points (+ or -), and which to the battery?

I purchased a 6 volt replacement coil for my 29 Plymouth. My Plymouth has the original electrical set up - 6 volt positive ground. The coil is the same as a NAPA Echlin IC9, and has two terminals marked + and - (rather than "Bat" and "Dist"). My question is, which coil terminal should be connected to the distributor points, and which to the battery? I spoke with a technician from Standard Ingintion, and was told that for these old coils, it really does not matter, but it is preferred to hook it up in accordance to the car's polarity. When I originally purchased the replacement coil, I hooked the coil up with reverse polarity, reasoning that it was probably designed for negative grounded cars. On the original Plymouth coil, the Bat terminal is common for both the primary and secondary wiring - i.e., the secondary wiring completes its circuit through the battery. The car has run fine ever since. However, I have been told by some that it would be better if I switch the terminals to match the polarity of the car. This same replacement coil is sold by several Model A Ford parts suppliers. Those suppliers state that when installing the replacement coil on a Model A, the coil should be mounted (and wired) so that the Positive terminal is on the passenger side. I have a small wiring diagram of a Model A, but it is not very detailed. It shows the passenger side coil terminal wire connecting to the instrument cluster, and the driver side coil terminal connecting to a terminal box. My question is, for this set up (for the Positive grouond Model A Ford), which coil terminal is connected to the distributor points (+ or -), and which to the battery?

Can anyone give me a good source for a red fan belt for a 29 Plymouth? My car has red radiator hoses, and I would like a matching fan belt. Also, are the fan belts for 28-32 Plymouths interchangeable? I have seen serveral different lists. Andy Bernbaum offers the same belt for 28-32 Plymouth. Pro shows the same for 29-30 Plymouth. However, my parts book lists diferent numbers for 28, 29, 30 and 31/32.

I agree. Dick rebuilt my 29 Plymouth's speedometer and made me a new cable - it works great now.

I cannot vouch for this information, but a cross-reference web site indicates it may be a non-Chrysler replacement for part number 1257394, which in turn interchanges with a number of others. The applications listed are: "P, D, DS 49-55; C 49-50 6 CYL, 49-50 45 AMP VOLTAGE REG" http://www.lightningjar.com/cars/%20mopar/decoders/partnumbers/searchpartnumbers.php

Wouldn't you know it - I just got through test driving my car (just this morning!), and the Vacuum tank is running great! Apparently there must have been some debris in the flapper valve, or the lines. Two days ago I started to remove the tank to try an overhaul it, and I noticed it was full of fuel. I emptied almost all the fuel from the lower chamber, started the motor and ran it awhile, and after shutting it off, checked the vac tank ? it was full of fuel! My guess is there must have been some debris in the tank that prevented the flapper valve from closing. Earlier I had cleaned up the vac tank, removing the upper chamber from the lower, and blew out the fuel line to the gas tank. Debris from the gas tank has usually been the cause of any problems with the vac tank in the past. As long as my Kingston vacuum tank fuel pump works well, I will just leave it alone. But if it gives me any more problems, I will take it apart and try an overhaul it. However, I sure would like to have another Kingston vac pump, so I could overhaul it and see for myself exactly how they operate. I could also take pictures and document it for other Kingston vac pump owners, since I have yet to locate any diagrams on these fuel pumps .

Thanks for the Info! I just finished talking to a guy that repairs S-W Vac Tanks, and he also recommended Dykes Automobile Encyclopedia. I will have to find a copy.

I have a vacuum tank type fuel fuel pump on my 1929 Plymouth that has worked fine for 30 years and 5000 miles. However, it stopped working recently. I cannot find any data on how to trouble shoot, much less repair it. Nor can I find anyone who repairs them. It seems fairly simple, but I do not want to tear it down until I have some more information. Do these have a spring inside that wears out (to keep the valve shut)? The pump is labeled "Kingston Products Corp, Model 39-F", and has stamped on it "C-10" and "28". The patents are dated 1921 thru 1924. Any Technical information or sources would be greatly appreciated. I know many people install hidden a booster pump - but I would like to get it operating as original, if possible. John Fain jfain@sw.rr.com