special55

Jeff, You have a PM Rich

Hey Gary, Glad to hear it worked out. I'm not sure if I followed the directions to a "T" or not when I did my 55 but most likely I did since I wasn't that familiar with the vehicle. This is my first go around with a pre 60s vehicle. I'm having lots of fun and learning a ton though. Rich

So what part of the procedure did you deviate from? It might benefit others in the future if you let us know. Glad to hear you are getting past it though. Good luck with the rest of your repairs, Rich

Yeah I hear you about the factory lack of concern. It was apparent in the lack of coverage on many parts of the block. That being said I do have the engine assembled as I wanted to duplicate the factory finish as much as possible. I did leave the intake and spark plug covers off so I could get maximum coverage of the valley cover, engine block and valve covers. I'll just hang them and spray at the same time. I think at this point I will thin as you described and spray away. Thanks again for all the responses. Rich

Thanks Bob That's great info Did you paint your cast parts separate from your sheet metal parts prior to assembly or assemble first then paint? Thanks again for the advise. It's much appreciated. Rich

Hi Bob, Only because they recommend 1 ounce of what they call "very slow curing thinner" for the entire quart. Seems like a waste to by a thinner I might not ever use again for one ounce. That was really my only motivation for spraying straight up. Rich

Thanks for the response guys, I did contact Bill Hirsch and they were able to tell me what to thin with but were no help on what size tip to use if spraying unthinned which is my first preference. I am familiar with syphon feed guns but this is my first go around with the HVLP. I will take your advise and spend a little time spraying some scrap to get the feel. Any more advise out there guys? Keep it coming Rich

Hey 39, Engine is out and just went through a fresh rebuild. The block was sent out and cleaned and all the sheetmetal parts blasted and primed. I just need to give it a final once over and start sprayin I just wanted to seek a little advice from those that have been there and done that. Rich

Hey Everyone, I purchased a qt of the engine enamel from Bill Hirsch and plan to apply it with a HVLP gun. If anyone has advise on tip size, thin or don't thin or anything else relevant I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks, Rich

I'll second that nomination I would be lost in my restoration without his knowledge and advise. Thanks again for all your help Willie Rich

Hey Jeff, I've not purchased anything from them but you may want to give these guys a try. classicfabrication.com your on-line source for floorpans for your classic car Good luck, Rich

Gary, My luck hasn't been quite that bad. Although it did seem like the front end stuff was what I had the most problems getting the right parts for. I had very good luck with my brake lines. I used Inline Tube here in Michigan and they fit with very little adjustment. I would recomend them for any of your future projects. Have fun at Hershey and if you see any good looking 55 Chrome give me a shout Rich

Hey Gary, What luck It's bad enough half the new parts that are manufactured to supposed factory specs don't fit but to get the wrong side control arm? YIKES I don't have any experience with your shock set up. Mine has tube front shocks. I can't believe the trouble you are having getting these things centered. Mine were a pain but they lined up with minimal agrivation. I hope things work out for you so you can still make Hershey. Best of luck, Rich

Hi Gary, It sounds like you did the inners properly so you should be good there. I would disconnect the shocks and remove the upper pins. Then install the lowers with the knuckle centered. Leave the lower pins loose but install them all the way through the bushings. Then install the uppers with the knuckle centered in the control arm. I don't know if this is the prefered method but doing it in this order might help get you where you need to go. The other option I have used is to unbolt the lower control arm from the frame, set up all the outter hardware and then bolt the control arm back up. Good luck. I hope one of these options works for you. Rich

Hi Gary, Sorry to hear you are having such difficulties. I just finished my 55 and they look to be about the same. I to struggled with the replacement parts. Lets start with a couple of items that might have gotten you here. 1. I'm sure you probably have this correct but I will ask anyway. When you installed the inner bushings and shaft did you make sure the shaft centered in the control arm? Everything starts from there and if that is off you will not get the outers to go in the correct placement. 2. I don't recall mine being so tight but I installed the lowers first and then the uppers. You may want to give that a go and see if it helps correct the situation. 3. My shocks were the very last thing installed. Not sure if those can make that big a difference but I would disconnect them and see if that gives you enough freedom to center things in the control arm. Good luck and remember this is a fun hobbie Rich

Man Bill I wish I could get that kind of price here in MI I recognize the value of having it done as you did but I am getting quotes for three times that amount just for the body tub no other panels. Rich

It might bolt up but I'm not sure. There is a destinct difference in the hood ornaments though. The 55 had a bolt on emblem on top of the hood in front whereas the 56 had a cutout that the ornament was recessed into.

Unfortunately the service manual procedure is very subjective. It states to tighten the screws until "considerable resistance" is felt. What may be considerable to me may not be to you or the next guy or so on. It then has you back off 6 full turns andtorque the lock nut. I followed this procedure best I could and have yet to drive my car (it's in mid restoration). I'm sure some guys here will chime in but you may want to post this on the Buick forum as they have more experience with this specific trans. Good luck, Rich

Scott, You may want to watch ebay. Complete assemblies come up pretty often. Check to see what other years might use the same parts and monitor all years. I see them on there regularly for 1955s. Good luck, Rich

Hey Sid, I didn't get a chance to look for that carb this weekend. I probably should have confirmed that you were looking for a two barrel. All my parts are for Specials so two barrel is all I have. I will try and get out there tonight but it may be tomorrow night before I get a chance. Sorry for the delay, Rich

Hey Barney, Give this guy a shout dturkette@gmail.com He hauled a complete floor board from a 55 Special and some other parts from Mi to Texas. Very reasonable on price and very helpful. I ended up sticking around and talking to him for 45 min after we were done loading. His name is Dennis. Tell him Rich from Mi told you about him. Good luck, Rich

Hi Gary, I just finished this up on my 55. If your other control arm is within specs then there is no need to replace it. Just replace the bent one and move on to your next expense The bushings are vey tight and in my case some exceeded the specified torque to seat them all the way in. It is very important to use the service manual procedure and lock the arm in a vise when installing these so you don't tweak the control arm. I used GM Lithease on my new bushings and they all started into the arm pretty easy but started tightening up well before the hex was flush up against the control arm. I would suggest that if yours didn't start easy there may be a problem with the threads or bushings themselves (I ended up sending my lower outers back to the vender because they were wrong). IMHO the bushing is not installed correctly untill the hex is tight up against the control arm but others here with more experience with this may correct me. This was my first one but it just seems logical that the bushing should be installed all the way in. Good luck, Rich

Hey Sid, Let me take a look this weekend. If I have spare panels they are probably only good for patterns but I'll see what I have. Not sure on the carb I will look for that as well. I know there were several carbs by multiple manufaturers in 55. I don't know if it makes a difference or not for your application. Maybe someone here can help with that question. If I have a spare I can post the carb number and you can let me know if it works for you. Rich

Hey Stephen, Here are some pics of the fuel pump. From what I can remember the difference between the two used was either six bolts or one used on the cap so if yours has one bolt it is probably different from mine. Here are the pics for you to confirm either way. No luck on the radio. It powers up but no sound. Not sure if it's a tube or what???? Let me know if the pump does you any good. Rich

Hey Stephen, I will be able to spend some time in the garage tomorrow night and will take a photo of the pump I have. I will also try and test the radio. I just need to find where I put one of the antenas . I'll get back to you after that with an update. Just out of curiousity why do they say you need to replace the pump top? If it is slightly warped you can use a piece of fine sand paper on a flat surface and run the top over it to flatten it back out. Not that I want to loose a potential sale but if that's all it is you can probably save yourself a couple bucks. Rich