BuickCollector

GN has a "clear flood mode" when throttle was depressed during cranking. Basically, it turned off the injectors. Not sure about the Reatta. Check for spark during cranking, check for fuel injector pulsing during cranking, and if the TPS is the same as a GN, check the resistance using an OHM meter when the TPS is disconnected. It should change as the throttle moves. I also have a high idle/high TPS problem....not as high as yours though. If I turn the key on, wait (usually until the antenna goes up) and then start, things are better. (wierd) I've replaced the TPS and connector before (I think the heat last summer fried it). Haven't done anything this time though. I just live with it, because eventually it'll go down.

GM Top Engine Cleaner is great stuff as well.

Having (only) read "most" of the post, I may have missed this point, so please forgive as I do not mean to offend anyone. Years, ago, I would take my (then new) GN to shows of all types in the late 80's/early 90's and was put in the Specialty Class which consisted of "kit cars", half-tracks, and Eldorado's with horns on the hood. There were no trophies, yet I needed to pay to enter the show. Needless to say, I was frustrated. My only satisfaction, was when I'd draw a crowd. Later, having run 11 Buick shows over the years and not having the adequate staff to do anything other than "People's Choice", please let me note both a consideration and the potential flaw with this type of award/show. First, we found that divisions/classes still needed to exist, because if not, the "restorers/stock car owners" or the "less-modified-car owners" get offended when a "modified" or "heavily-modified" car is entered. Simply put, the modified cars would have an advantage over the stock cars; one piece of chrome under the hood goes a long way in the minds of "the people" and heavily-modified cars would have an advantage over all other cars. Typically, which car would the "people" vote for? -> a perfectly restored silver car (typically, silver/gray cars never seem to win) -> or a wildly modified racecar complete with engine and paint graphics? The answer is obvious. Without classes/divisions, this is "no fun" for a restorer. All the time/effort/(and expense) is ignored by the masses because they like something different and stock is considered "boring". Also, unfortunately, quantity of modifications often takes the lead over quality and craftsmanship of the modifications. Secondly, the "People's Choice" award can easily become more of a "who could bring along the most buddies along" award. In this case, all "the buddies" have cars which they register and therefore are allowed to vote, but they decide ahead of time who they were going to vote for. This is "no fun" for anyone else (restored or modified). Further, allowing spectator voting can be even more unfair because of the ballot stuffing problem. In the later years, we had 3 classes per model; stock, lightly-modified, heavily-modified. I realize we just pushed "the problem" downstream (ie. determining what exactly was in each class), but at least, there were fewer disagreements as to what car was stock or modified and which class they belonged in and more people ultimate received awards (more fun for everyone). But bottom line is always money. Who ever can afford the most pristine car or can restore it the best or whomever can modify the car "the best" (most attractively) will win, either judged in the case or restored or People's Choice in the case of modified. Finally, take heart because, with GM using Powertrain engines and divisions no longer having unique engines (to give them more unique personality), "Buick-bodied" or "Buick-powered" will be a thing of the "true" past.

I don't have the tripodometer problem that you are referring to....at least not that I know of. The biggest inconvenience is not knowing how much gas I have left. I know my IPC is about to go out when my tach drops to zero. Keep im mind several things, 1) cleaning the contacts did nothing to help my "00" "Error" problem. 2) the 2 persons/companies who fix these dashes do so ONLY with the IPC itself which leads me to believe it is internal problem with the IPC. 3) flexing the circuit board (also possibly a "bump") will bring my IPC back on again (if its warm), leading me to be believe it is internal. 4) mine problem is temperature-related leading me to believe it is either a marginal component or a bad connection (internally). 5) no one has definitively confirmed that components are bad.

oil LEVEL display? You mean "Low Oil"?

Thanks for the discount, Tom. If I wasn't bent on trying to find the problem myself, I'd have a fixed dash 3 yrs ago, a lot less frustration, and only a few $$$s lighter in the wallet. Sounds like a good deal no matter who you go to.

This is the place in Canada. $199, I believe. Can't really fault Mr. Pierce... he figured it out and can make some $$$ as well..... but someone, somewhere will find it and eventually post it, I'm sure. (The race is on.) Someone mentioned soldering transitors in another thread? I haven't had the time, but plan to trace the serial lines internal to the IPC. I figure using a VOM (don't have a OSC' available), I should be able to see (at least) some fluctuating voltages and determine if the data signal loss is prior to going through any major components (ICs, resistors, transistors, whatever) or if the problem is past that point. After the first component, it gets too time-consuming for me to trace. Heck, I haven't even found the time to get this far yet and my dash have been intermittent for 3? years. My particular dash seems like a good candidate because it is temp-sensitive and more importantly flex-sensitive. I should have a half a chance to find the problem. Anyother problem is the wiring isn't long enough to get the IPC out of the dash very far to probe while plugged in and powered up. The SC Regal group has a HVAC display problem and they traced it to poorly soldered resistors.

My midrange passenger door speaker also went about 2 weeks ago. Upon removing both midranges, the internal (paper) actually disintegrated in my hand. -- I priced GM units (~$76 list ea.) or $36 ea. from GMPD. -- I decided aftermarket was the way to go. I replaced them with an Open Box Polk DB525 set from Circuit City. I saved $10 off the sale price, but I still had the crackle in the pass side. The driver's side sounded great! -- I originally thought the head unit was bad. My CD player had died years ago and I discovered the unit had already been serviced in '93. I have been using a Philips portable CD/MP3 player with an FM tuner and/or cassette adapter. Philips won the evaluation (but that's a different thread). -- After searching for 1.5DIN stereos ($200+), I determined they are hard to come by (no major chains seem to carry them) and some stereo places wouldn't even order them because they thought they may get stuck with them, nor could they ensure me that they would work with CDRW/MPs. So, I was going down the route of having the stock stereo repaired (fairly inexpensive) or going with a standard 1DIN unit (~$150). -- Just before the purchase, I decided to swap the Polks from side to side. The problem moved with the speaker! I also ran a wire from the driver's side door to the pass speaker and the pass speaker was clear. One of the Polk's was bad and I happened to put it on the same side as my bad OEM speaker (the dangers of open-box savings)! -- I was now on the quest for midranges again. I liked the Polk's but the full price (now not on sale) held me back. I listened to the Sony Xplods (keep in mind, I believe there are several different variants) as people suggested (but to me) they sounded flat and hollow. -- Circuit City seems to have some higher-end options over BestBuy. -- BestBuy seems to have a good variety of brands and price options and (to me) the Kenwoods sounded the best (under the $99 price range). I didn't buy them yet though. -- BTW: I believe they also carry tweeters, but mounting could be a problem and mine still are fine. -- Just my 2 cents.

The error code is listed as "Loss of Serial Data" which means the serial data is not making it to the internal circuitry (chips) of the IPC where it is interpretted and displayed on the LED gauges. -- It is my understanding that..... While this can be caused by problems external to the IPC, it is unlikely. -- I have had this problem for a while. Mine is intermittent. It definitely is heat related (cold interior=doesn't work, warm/hot interior=works). If its warm in the interior, yet the dash isn't lit, (with the dash bezel off), pressing in the center bottom of the IPC causes it to light up and it will usually will stay on.....at least for a while...and as long as the temperature doesn't drop. If its cold in the interior (< 75deg), there is really nothing I can do to get it to work...short of warming up the interior. (This obviously is a more of a problem in the wintertime). -- This tells me that something is losing contact (whether it is the connectors, inter-board connections, on-board traces, etc.), I cannot tell, but heat expands the problem (culprit(s)) and allows contact... or if its marginal, pressing on the IPC warps things just enough to make contact. -- I've thoroughly cleaned the connectors and it has not helped. -- If you're stateside, the guy in MD seems to be a better deal, rather than the Canadian firm, BUT I HAVE NOT PERSONALLY USED EITHER...(yet). -- And finally, the fact that both can fix the problem by just having the IPC, leads me to believe it is definitely internal to the IPC, not the connectors. Other posts mention something about resoldering non-specifically-listed components. I tried heating up solder joints (inter-board, etc.) which I thought may be stressed/loose...no luck. -- These guys have figured out the problem and they know how to fix it. If you don't want the annoyance, I suggest using them or getting another IPC. Keep in mind the odometer reading is stored in the BCM, not the IPC, so swapping IPCs shouldn't/doesn't hurt anything. -- Doesn't mean I'm going to give up though "finding the actual problem".... Good luck.

Something like this? No door handles, no vent glass bar, no body side moldings, no bumper trim. If the black rocker panels go, it looks (too much?) like a Saturn. Prix, I borrowed your car (so to speak) for this example. Hope you don't mind.

Thanks. I'll be in touch. Looks like my troubles aren't quite over yet. I'm still getting fluid from under my rad. support. I think the feed or return line is routed there? That must be rusted through as well? I think I'll use my spare trans. cooler hose and hook connect it in-line with the trans. cooler and then back into the system, bypassing the entire stock arrangement. That should definitely stop the leak until I can get spare parts.

Anyone know: - the part number for a '91 power steering pump cooler? - the going price for one? - if anyone has a good used one for sale? I couldn't figure out where my power steering fluid was going. Now I know. The cooler tubes were rusted halfway through and cracked. I spare transmission cooler fixed it (for today), but is not a permanent fix. Any and all comments/information are welcome.

So, if a BCM goes bad, you can just swap the EEPROM into another BCM or you need to reprogram the EEPROM also ...or you only need to reprogram the EEPROM if original EEPROM is also bad?

I thought it might be "fun" to try to determine the performance of the Velite based on (very little) information that is known about the concept. -- If anyone has any information about the gear ratios of the 6L80E trans., the final drive ratio of the concept, the torque converter slip, optimum shift points, etc., please post it. -- We'll assume the potential production vehicle is the same weight, has the same tires/rims, and also has the same amount of horsepower (wishful thinking) as the twin-turbo intercooled concept. -- We know: <span style="font-weight: bold"> -> weight: 3450 -> hp: 400 @ 6200 -> rear tire height: 29.35 </span> (this was computed by the rear tire and rim size: 265/40 R21 -- We don't know: <span style="font-weight: bold"> -> final drive ratio -> torque converter stall RPM </span> -> torque converter slip percentage -> gear ratios -- Only the first two of the "unknowns" are important for "fun" estimates. -- If we were to use values for the above (first two) based on "reasonable" estimates derived from previous GM V6 turbocharged vehicles (turbo-Regals), we have: -- -> torque converter stall RPM: 2250 (makes for a driveable/streetable well-mannered turbocharged automatic vehicle) -> final drive ratio: 3.42.... although 3.08 and 3.73 would be possibilites (these ratios are based on available ratios for the corporate 8.5 rear differential, but others, of course, may be available in the vehicle) -- Using the shareware program Dragstrip Plus; - and above 2 estimated values, - and letting gear ratios default, - and assuming a TC slip percentage default of 10% - and assuming an "average" flowing exhaust system - with slicks and perfect traction (a big advantage over street tires on the street) -- ...the theoretical maximum performance would be: ...with a final drive ratio of: [color:\\"blue\\"]<span style="font-weight: bold">3.42 ---> 12.60 sec., 1/4 mi.</span> 3.08 ---> 12.80 sec., 1/4 mi. 3.73 ---> 12.42 sec., 1/4 mi. -- <span style="font-weight: bold">additional info..... Dragstrip Plus stated with with an optimal gear ratio, the potential performance would be 12-teens.... and with optimal stall, the performance would be 11.60-11.80....and finally with an open/free-flowing exhaust about 11.30-11.60s.</span> -- I ran some "real" numbers through Dragstrip Plus for a stock turbo-Regal with slicks, and it estimated a 13.58 which is probably about right for a TOTALLY STOCK GN with a net hp of about 275, so think these numbers are reasonable.

http://www.babez.de/buick/velite.php Buick Velite Restrained extravagance. Two seemingly incompatible words that nonetheless convey the spirit of the Buick Velite ? a four-seat convertible that envelops its passengers in a rich, elegant environment while forging new ground in the exclusive territory of expressive, upscale rear-drive mid-size automobiles. The Velite is the first American demonstration of GM's all-new Zeta global vehicle architecture, featuring a premium rear-wheel-drive chassis. Buick will unveil the Velite concept at the New York Auto Show. Named for an elite class of quick-moving soldiers in Napoleon's army, the Velite was designed at GM's Advanced Studio in Warren, Mich. and assembled at renowned coachbuilder Stile Bertone's studio in Italy. Its sister car, the Opel Insignia, debuted the Zeta architecture at the Frankfurt International Auto Show last year. ?Velite is a new expression of Buick's longstanding heritage in understated yet sophisticated design,? said Anne Asensio, executive director ? GM Advanced Design. ?While certainly an expression of premium American style, the Velite's impressive stance and overall presence emphasize a sumptuous driving experience that further pushes Buick on to the center of the world stage of luxurious touring cars.? Indeed, Buick's global presence is widening, particularly in Asia. Recently introduced products in China, for example, have been warmly received with demand exceeding supply. The upscale aura of these vehicles is enhanced with the rear-drive Velite ? its athletic proportions and aggressive stance emphasizing a bold, contemporary design, while readily identifiable heritage cues are worn with an international flair and understated elegance. Designers pored over Buick's extremely rich design history while also studying trends in global cultures and contemporary design. Modern furniture and even the atmosphere of trend-setting lounges influenced the color, mood and shape of the Velite's exterior and interior. Heritage cues can be found in the Velite's long dash-to-axle proportions, which convey power and a sporting elegance ? a theme reinforced by 20-inch front wheels, 21-inch rear wheels and short overhangs. Its long, sculpted clamshell hood introduces a bold new look for Buick's signature waterfall grille design. It is finished in a jewel-like luster and creates a three-dimension visual effect that blends seamlessly with the body when viewed from different angles. The hood integrates portholes ? three per side ? in a romantic, yet contemporary nod to Buick's heritage. The hood tilts forward when opened, creating a dramatic look that evokes a bygone era of touring cars. A complementing clamshell deck lid opens in the opposite direction to swallow the Velite's folding soft top. When retracted, the top is completely covered by the rear deck for an integrated, contoured look reminiscent of Buick's dramatic boattail designs of the 1930s. Decidedly upscale yet subtle appointments underscore the Velite's aura of refined sophistication, including its Dark Tarnished Bronze Metallic exterior color. The rich-looking hue complements the vehicle's relaxed, sophisticated mood, and is a reflection of the color's emergence in modern design around the globe. The color contrasts with crystalline headlamp lenses, which combine with X-Beam technology to create a distinct, superior lighting system. Using the same halogen light source, X-Beam enables the use of a smaller lens while creating 44 percent greater luminous intensity than traditional reflector headlamps. Cooling vents for the lights are slotted next to the lenses, creating a unique and purposeful styling element. X-beam technology also is used in the taillamps, which blend into rearward sheetmetal designed with a nod to the 1938 Y-Job ? Buick's first concept vehicle and first convertible. ?The Velite has a presence that conveys confident power,? said Sang Yup Lee, exterior designer. ?It's a fresh, contemporary design that not only hints at Buick's design direction, but speaks the language of modern design trends around the globe ? a statement of strength through elegance, not extravagance.? Romantic environment Contemporary design also is reflected in the Velite's passenger compartment, which uses sumptuous materials and the warm glow of indirect lighting to harmonize with the vehicle's exterior design voice. It's a tangible expression of a jazz lounge atmosphere, including an inviting rear seat that wraps around the interior like a comfortable lounge loveseat. Rear HVAC controls allow rear-seat passengers to adjust the climate to suit their moods. Subdued lighting radiates a warm glow throughout the cabin, and is complemented by leather of three shades: Bronze Pearl, Iceberg Blue, and Woven Tan. The look of Gold Leaf Lacquer, in place of wood, is a statement of richness in many Asian cultures; it accents the interior, including the door handles and shift knob. All seating is leather-covered and the materials used throughout the interior were selected for their reassuring tactile feel. ?Everything from the colors to the shape and feel of the upholstery was designed to provide a rich, relaxing and romantic environment,? said Bryan Priebe, interior designer. ?The Velite is a respite from the outside world and invites human interaction.? The Velite's warm interior lighting glows from the backs of instrument panel controls and gauges. The subdued look includes a panel over the XM Satellite Radio and OnStar controls, allowing a smooth, uninterrupted appearance of the dashboard and center console. An ?E-lock? security system allows the Velite's driver to unlock or lock the vehicle without fumbling for a key fob. The system, which uses a proximity signal for vehicle function commands, allows starting and driving without the need for a traditional ignition key. Power to move the Velite comes from Buick's experimental twin-turbocharged, intercooled global V-6 engine. Four hundred horsepower and 400 lb.-ft. of torque are derived from its DOHC design and 3.6-liter displacement. The engine features fuel-saving variable valve timing technology, which is available on some of GM's four-, five-, six- and eight-cylinder engines. Through the use of variable engine valve timing, valve lift and duration is continuously varied to improve fuel economy, horsepower and torque, while reducing emissions. The V-6 is backed by a Hydra-Matic 6L80-E six-speed, rear-wheel-drive automatic transmission equipped with manual tap-shift gear selection. A pair of large, oval exhaust outlets provides an aural reminder that performance is very much a part of the vehicle's character. ?The strength of the powertrain is the necessary complement to the Velite's powerful design statement,? said Tom Peters, Buick Velite's chief designer. ?It's premium performance to go with a contemporary, muscular presence.? Although a concept, the Velite affirms GM's vision for Buick as a global manufacturer of premium, elegant vehicles. It shows the exciting possibilities of the all-new Zeta vehicle architecture and an expressive new direction for Buick. ?There's an edge to the vehicle, more than is reflected in its sculpted bodywork,? said Peters. ?It's a forward-looking vehicle that not only stands for Buick in America, but how American style, performance and prestige resonates in a contemporary, global form.? Text and photos courtesy of General Motors

Most likely. I have the same problem and I know my condenser needs to be replaced as well ($$$!!!).

Keep in minds, this is NOT the turbocharged prototype in the Velite. In normally-aspirated form... <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> The 3.6L V-6 VVT engine The 2004 3.6L V-6 VVT engine is the first variant of the global V-6 engine family to go into production. Although a design priority was to minimize or even eliminate all sources of undesirable engine noise, the sound that does reach the vehicle occupants has been carefully optimized to be rich and rewarding. Intense focus on reducing noise, vibration and harshness (NVH) did not compromise the dictates of high specific output. The 3.6L global V-6 develops 255 hp @ 6,200 rpm and 252 lb-ft of torque @ 3,200 rpm. The adoption of fully variable valve timing for both intake and exhaust valves provides outstanding flexibility, fuel economy and emissions-reduction. The four-cam variable valve timing is a key element in the V-6 VVT control strategy, which imparts the engine with extreme flexibility. For example, 90 percent of the 3.6L V-6's peak torque is available across a remarkably broad operating range, from 1,600 rpm to 5,800 rpm.</div></div>

Unfortunately, the V6, if it has a V6, will be the new 3.6L VVT engine, not the old reliable 3.8 we al love.

Always keep the dealer (or any service shop, for that matter) in check. In other words, question everything. -- The only car I take to the dealer is the 2002 'Vous which I want nothing to do with ether mechanically/service-wise and especially since most things are under warranty or the extended warranty. I figure, I paid for it, let them do it. -- Anyway, but when they told me I was due for a 30,000 check-up/tune-up, I asked how much and more importantly "why"? The quote was around $350-$400 (the going rate for GM or Ford) and what they listed were all things which had at least a 50K if not 100K service interval listed in the owner's manual. They claimed that those listed mileages did not apply because of the type of "harsh" driving we were doing, when in reality a lot of it was highway. This is their "clause" wording they use to get the service. The owner's manual states, X mileage except in harsh/severe driving conditions... but they don't elaborate as to what that is. -- As an additional note, I had a friend who sold his dealership because with all of the list prices being available for new cars, there wasn't enough profit in it (or so he claimed) because buyers always tried to get the cars at or below list and the only profit area was used cars and service, but even service was tight because of the predefined work times associated with a job. -- All of my other service is done at local shop... and by the way, the 30K mile check up was $50 and involved him checking the interior contamination filter (which was ok).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"Powerful" was used to describe Buicks too, BUT there was also a picture of a Black Regal GN with a big red circle with a slash through it with the explanation "No more 'boy racer' Buicks".</div></div> I had always heard that GM/Buick had taken stance against GNs in later years, essentially making their own "children" the "black sheep" of the family, but had never heard of anything quite so "official". What a shame. "Here, here" on your statement about the number of spark plugs. As for myself, I'm torn wishing for a V8 versus a turbo-V6 in the Velite. In all reality neither, will be very easily modifyible for more power with regards to emissions. -- If they put a low-hp engine in it to make the Caddy version stand out, then I hope for a turbo-v6 because it "should" be more easily modified to produce more hp without "getting into the engine" by increasing the boost (assuming the fuel system, block, and control systems allow it without too many modifications). If the aftermarket follows the Velite like they did for the GNs, the number of bolt on parts for a turbo application could be substancial. The aftermarket vendors which catered to the GNs over the past 15 years are ready and waiting for something new to support to apply everything they learned from the turbo-Regals. -- Let's just all hope it doesn't end up with an underpowered normally aspirated V6 (like the Reatta). In that case, there wouldn't be much to work with and something more radical would have to be considered (engine-swap?) and "collectible vehicle" registration to be emissions-exempt. mmmm..... -- Let's hope there's something significant under the hood from day one! --

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> "My opinion about Reatta not being a real Buick is because the car does not have a V-8, does not have rear wheel drive, has insufficent horsepower and generally does not provide satisfying performance." </div></div> I think you've described the entire current Buick line....except for the V8 Rainier which I still think would fail the "performance" criteria. I hope that a "Buick" does not have to meet ALL of those criteria in your book because, I think the current GS is a very good performer even without a V8 and the turbo-Regals of the past have every right to be called "a Buick"... also without a V8....they are right up there with the big blocks of old. Just my opinion. Looks like the Velite may match your description though.

No offense EDBS0.... but.... "Get an 89 SHO if you want fast and tweekable." Keeping it in the "Buick-camp", "Get a '86/'87 Grand National if you want REALLY fast and VERY TWEAKABLE"

Many valid thoughts have been voiced here. -- When I saw the Velite in NY at the autoshow, it was creating quite a few positive comments from the crowd. ...a nice change at the Buick section from years past! -- I'll relay what the Buick people told me in summary. -- The date, "2006" was mentioned. The name, "GNX" was mentioned in a different timeframe. The term "single turbo" was also mentioned. -- If you put them all together. The Velite is a functional concept which could be made "real" quicker than other concepts (remember, Regis drove it). I mentioned 2008 to them and they countered with 2006. Two individuals at different times mentioned "single-turbo". They mentioned "GNX", not me. This used to be a bad word at Buick along with Grand National because of its "boy-racer" image. Apparently, not so anymore. -- I really don't care if its a V8 or turbo-V6, as long as it has enough to tromp the competition at a fraction of the cost.... for example, my neighbor's Z8 which he loves flaunting around the neighborhood. I'd love to show it up with an American (Buick specifically) V6 (or V8) car just like we could 15 years ago with a GN. As for the name...well.... Centurion, Wildcat, or Invicta sounds ok.... but I think Riviera is too diluded. -- And finally, yes, I own a '91 Reatta (165hp). If you don't get the jump on them at the intersection, its all over.... and the number of electrical (and other) problems are simply too many to list. Looks are its strongest point. ("flame-on")

Realistically, 550 hp is about the practical limit for the factory turbo blocks (they have extra webbing internally over N/A blocks). RWD Stage I and Stage II set-ups can go over 1000hp. -- I've bounced the idea of a S/C or T/C setup aound every since I got the car in '98 although I've never followed through because I want the car to be more reliable and not a "project car" which I constantly have tinker with. -- With 138K on it, I now have to tinker with it just to keep it running (all of the electrical problems and mechanical quirks and such). I'm glad I never took it any further. -- All of the above suggestions for little power boosts are good. Do those first and see if the wife "feels" the difference. Just my 2 cents.

Here are the Sears Hardware part numbers for the delrin (equivalent?) bushing/rollers for the headlamp assemblies. Please see photos attached in previous post. Location: Sears Hardware Manufacturer: Servalite Stock Number: 581-E Desc: Well Nut Group: 9-13900 Size: 1/4-20 Price: $0.75 each I bought these on 3/23/03 and they've been working great ever since. I needed to cut bottom off the "flange" portion to make them the correct length. (Its a rubber body with the brass threaded center section.)