montrose

Steve, All the Penberthy Ball and Ball carbs that I have and have seen are brass. Joel

Have some odds and ends from a 4 door sedan. Including rear glass, rear end(including suspension), front end (including suspension), steering box, some trim (Skyway model), front seat, some dash stuff, some handles, front doors, trunk lid, etc. Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

I have number of extra mechanical items including cylinder blocks, crankcases, connecting rods, crankshafts, manifolds, oil pans, misc. castings, etc.... Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

I have a number of extra engine parts including crankshafts, blocks, rods, misc. castings, oil pans, etc. Parts I have are for the smaller 8 used in the Commander(250, 221), Dictator(221), and later President(250). Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

Not certain about the later heads, off hand. But I do know that the earlier heads for the Big 6 had just the word "Big" cast in raised letters,; the Special 6 head had the word "Special" also cast in raised letters. I do have a later Big 6 head stashed away (EW - 1927), though, and could dig it out to see what it says if you would like. Joel

Thanks Mark, but I do know what a VIN is. What I was asking was what the actual VIN that Adrien has located on his VIN plate. Joel

What is the VIN number? Joel

There were 2 vendors that supplied distributors for these cars - Remy and Wagner. The Remy distributor model that is correct for 21 is model 606A. This was also used in 1922 until engine number 73613. A model 626A was used after 73613. The parts book lists the Wagner distributor as part number 43866 but I do not see the model number there. But I did find it in the service book - model K97. Joel

Strange, The body tag seems to indicate a 1927 EW 4 door sedan. The engine also seems to be a 1927 EW built in June of 1927. However the frame tag seems to be from a 1929 GJ Commander. Perhaps the frame tag was changed at some point in time? Joel

On my 1922 Special 6, the VIN plate is located on the side of the drivers side frame rail behind the front axle and can be viewed by looking under the fender. Let us know what you find there. If I recall correctly, there should also be a body identification plate on the firewall, engine side. Joel

Donald, The GH was a new 1928 1/2 series introduced in July of 1928. These were the last Studebakers to use the 354 CI "Big Six". The 112588 would be a head part number. The H 9 18 is a date code 9/18/1928. GHW-3 indicates the body to be a GH series sedan, with the 5456 being a body number. And yes, I do see that the GH is not covered in the 1928-1940 Chassis parts catalog. This catalog does not seem to cover the "BIg Six" powered cars. Joel

I have a number of extra engine parts including crankshafts, blocks, rods, misc. castings, oil pans, etc. These parts are for the smaller 8 used in the Commander(250, 221), Dictator(221), and later President.(250) I hope to make it to York if you would like me to bring anything along. Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

I have number of extra mechanical items including cylinder blocks, crankcases, connecting rods, crankshafts, manifolds, oil pans, misc. castings, etc.... I hope to make it to York if you would like me to bring anything along. Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

Originally your car would of had an air horn which ducted heated air from the manifold to the carburetor. Later FD cars (after SN 8,013,433) used a Air Maze brand air cleaner which clamped onto the carburetor. Your car no longer has the original type of carb on it. Whiich is why the adapter plate is installed. Your car originally came with a Stromberg model UX-2. These are very dificult to find, as they are made of pot metal and the majority of them have disintegrated due to the composition of the alloy used at that time. Joel

Multiple things. Right off the bat I saw that the spark plugs were in groups of 2. The president motor plugs are evenly spaced. The head casting number is visible in the photo, it is definitely a commander number. There are many differences, and this is definitely a commander motor. There should be a firewall tag on the cowl and a frame tag on the drivers side of the frame. The emblem on the dash could of been put there at any time. Body also looks to be Commander from the pictures you show. Joel

The engine pictured in your photos is definately a Commander engine, and not a President engine, Joel jrosen@ziplink.net

From the pictures you posted, looks to be a 29 FD Commander. I do have a few exta odds and ends for these cars, have quite a few mechanical items, Joel jrosen@ziplink.net

I have quite a few extra engine parts including crankshafts, blocks, rods, etc. I am planning to be at Reedsville if you would like me to bring anything along. Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

I have a few extra items including cylinder blocks, crankcases, connecting rods, crankshafts, manifolds, etc. I am planning to be at Reedsville if you would like me to bring anything along. Joel (860) 871-6720 jrosen@ziplink.net

Looking for a set of upper and lower sidemount clamps for 31 President/Commander. Also could use a 29-31 President fuel tank. Thanks, Joel jrosen@ziplink.net

The OE1 was used on the Studebaker Light 6 from about 1923 - 1924 (EM model). The OE2, I believe, is a larger version, but I do not believe it to have originally been used on a Studebaker, Regarding the cleaning; personally I would be going through any carburetor that I purchased regardless of whether or not someone else had "cleaned" it. Joel

Tom, You do need a condensor. Without one you will have a very poor spark and will pit the points in very short order. Many of the early coils had a condensor built right into the coil. Which is why you would not have a seperate one externally. However, if you are using a replacement coil without the condensor, you will need to install one externally. And incidentally, there are a few hundred volts typically across the points momentarily when the points open, breaking the primary current. A reverse emf is impressed upon the primary circuit by the secondary. Joel

Look to be late teens to early 20's. There should be a model number cast into the side of the main body. A couple of examples of a valid model number are LS-2 and OE-1. There will also be a serial number stamped on the carb. Let us know what the models are and we can help you with the application. And I agree that you should sell them as is. Joel

Tom, You can leave the car with me and I will get it running, but I make no guarantees as to its return, Joel

Tom, Your findings are more along the lines of what I would expect you to find per our conversation, as now you are looking at a single failure versus the 2 independent failures that would be indicated if the cam was still turning. And yes, the cylinders with the closed valves will give you the "feeling" of compression. This failure may of been caused as a result of cranking the engine with a frozen cam, lifter, or valve or a frozen water pump shaft. Anyhow, you will need to open up the motor and take a look at the cam and crank gears, as you should find the failure here or with the keyways. And you will need to be certain that everything is "free". I am pretty certain that your car is positive ground. I believe this to be the case with all Studebaker 6 volt systems. Perhaps someone else can chime in here as well. Interestingly, I do have a 1917 Series 18 owners manual, and even though it does have an electrical scematic, no polarity is indicated. For the hoses, just measure the ID and you should be able to order a "stick" (typically 3 feet) at your local auto parts store. And you should be able to measure up and order a belt as well. Also, perhaps someone can verify whether or not the gears are common with the 1918-1924 Special and Big 6 cars, as there are a relatively large number of these around. I do have the parts books for these, but not for their predecessors. Joel